Stuff you have fixed today

[Blue Chips]

Yesterday I fixed the 25 year old Dualit 4 slot toaster, I treated it to a good polish and 5 new elements and a clockwork timer. Total cost £60 and it should be good for another 25 years.

We have a two-slot Dualit toaster that has been going strong for about 30 years. It still has the original elements, although I did replace the timer a couple of years ago. Good solid workmanship and materials.

 

[Luggsey]

Making washers to fix the WC!
I get all the best jobs.....

 

[Blue Chips]

Making washers to fix the WC!
I get all the best jobs.....

A rather prosaic project, but an important one, as no one likes a leaky loo or a faulty flusher.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Got this B&D drill and stand the other day. I was told the drill worked, but the lady was not 100% sure as she had not tested it.



It did come with a chuck key, but the chuck it self was very still to operate.




Just showing of the difference, half way through T cutting and polishing the paint.
I didn't opt for a repaint as I still have the water slide transfers on the other side.




A test before dismantling showed the drill did work, but it was very slow and laboured.
The motor end was full of grease and dried saw dust. I had to use a craft blade to remove most of it. Then it was placed in a hot vapour tank and the rest was soon dripping out.
The end bearing was soaked in engine oil.


The rotor was cleaned up on a lathe with 0000 grade wire wool.



The gear box grease was solid. it was like a wax, it was that solid.



The old grease was removed by boiling it in washing soda.




It removed all the old grease and freed the chuck up as well.



All polished, PAT as well, shame I didn't clean the plug when I re-wired it.



The chuck and key was heated up to about 400Deg C then dipped into old engine oil to blacken it.

It now has a 3" polishing wheel on it and bean used to polish up silver spoons.

 

[Arc Tourist]

View attachment 289232

Got this B&D drill and stand the other day. ...........................................
View attachment 289236

The rotor was cleaned up on a lathe with 0000 grade wire wool. ....................................................

Learned something new, as I sometimes get lost in translation. You call it a Rotor here, overseas its known as an Armature, and where the brushes run over is called the Commutator.

 

[Cobbler]

Learned something new, as I sometimes get lost in translation. You call it a Rotor here, overseas its known as an Armature, and where the brushes run over is called the Commutator.

I know it as an armature & commutator, never heard it referred to as a rotor, but it is, ‘cos it goes round ..... or should do!

 

[Seadog]

You call it a Rotor here

Nope, we call it an armature as well. TYA is law unto himself

And yes, commutator.

 

[Arc Tourist]

Nope, .......................... TYA is law unto himself

.........................

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

I know it as an armature & commutator, never heard it referred to as a rotor, but it is, ‘cos it goes round ..... or should do!

Nope, we call it an armature as well. TYA is law unto himself

And yes, commutator.

I always call them a Rotor and stator. As one rotaes and one is stationary.

Simplz.

 

[Seadog]

Rotors and stators are usually, in my experience, used to describe the parts in alternators. It's a funny old world.

 

[m_c]

In Starters and Dynamos it's a armature and commutator, as the armature carries alternating current, and the commutator commutates (aka reverses) the current.

In alternators, you don't commutate anything, so it's just a rotor as it spins, and a stator because it doesn't.

 

[Luggsey]

View attachment 289232

Got this B&D drill and stand the other day. I was told the drill worked, but the lady was not 100% sure as she had not tested it.

View attachment 289233

It did come with a chuck key, but the chuck it self was very still to operate.


View attachment 289234

Just showing of the difference, half way through T cutting and polishing the paint.
I didn't opt for a repaint as I still have the water slide transfers on the other side.


View attachment 289235

A test before dismantling showed the drill did work, but it was very slow and laboured.
The motor end was full of grease and dried saw dust. I had to use a craft blade to remove most of it. Then it was placed in a hot vapour tank and the rest was soon dripping out.
The end bearing was soaked in engine oil.
View attachment 289236

The rotor was cleaned up on a lathe with 0000 grade wire wool.

View attachment 289237

The gear box grease was solid. it was like a wax, it was that solid.

View attachment 289238

The old grease was removed by boiling it in washing soda.


View attachment 289239

It removed all the old grease and freed the chuck up as well.

View attachment 289240

All polished, PAT as well, shame I didn't clean the plug when I re-wired it.

View attachment 289241

The chuck and key was heated up to about 400Deg C then dipped into old engine oil to blacken it.

It now has a 3" polishing wheel on it and bean used to polish up silver spoons.

We have to fail a PAT test with those older style plugtops. The newer style are insulated on half the length of the neutral and line on the plug pins. I think its to stop little fingers being able to touch the metal of the pin as its inserted into a socket. Not a worry for a workshop tool used by you of course! It may have had an old round pin type from new!

 

[Luggsey]

A rather prosaic project, but an important one, as no one likes a leaky loo or a faulty flusher.

You got that 100% right!

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

We have to fail a PAT test with those older style plugtops. The newer style are insulated on half the length of the neutral and line on the plug pins. I think its to stop little fingers being able to touch the metal of the pin as its inserted into a socket. Not a worry for a workshop tool used by you of course! It may have had an old round pin type from new!

True, about that old plug. But it is in my workshop.

 

[Dr.Al]

Rotors and stators are usually, in my experience, used to describe the parts in alternators. It's a funny old world.

Rotors are the rotating parts of motors which, in the case of a permanent magnet DC motor, include the shaft, the armature (the bit with the windings on) and the commutator body. Stators are the stationary parts of motors which, in the case of a permanent magnet DC motor, include the magnets and the brushes. On a brushless permanent magnet motor, there's no commutator or brushes (that bit is done electronically), the armature is on the stator and the magnets are on the rotor.

 

[Edward Teach]

The newer style are insulated on half the length of the neutral and live on the plug pins.

They are insulated now, to stop 'The Butter Knife' shorting the pins, when prising the plug, out of the tight, single socket extension lead, going to my Mothers 60's stereo record player.
How would I know this, as an 11-12 year old,
I've never forgotten

 

[Dcal]

Not today but last week, I "fixed" a door stop.
I made it for my daughter a while ago out of a log.
I know it's mostly wood, so shouldn't be on here, but there is metal and fire involved in the fix so I think it's allowed.



Anyway, turns out it had a serious design flaw and it would not function as intended. (The door closer spring just slid it on the wood floor.)
I stuck a bit of rubber to the bottom but it still couldn't keep the door open.

As increasing the coefficient of friction didn’t work, I needed to try something else and as I can do nothing about gravity I went for increasing the mass.
To that end, I drilled out the base and hollowed out the centre on my metal lathe (People that are careful of their machine tools should look away now) but in my defence I did vacuum the chips away as they came off and cleaned up straight away,



The added mass came from some scrap lead melted in a stainless measure with a propane torch.



I placed the lead in layers and let it cool between pours to keep control of the heat.
I also used a few wood screws as reinforcenebt,



The tape is to seal a bad crack, which just adds character (or that's my excuse)



The handle is a curtain ring, an oetiker clamp silver soldered to an 8mm self-tappter and a stainless mudguard washer.



I'm told it now works as intended.

 

[The_Yellow_Ardvark]

Not today but last week, I "fixed" a door stop.
I made it for my daughter a while ago out of a log.
I know it's mostly wood, so shouldn't be on here, but there is metal and fire involved in the fix so I think it's allowed.

View attachment 289932

Anyway, turns out it had a serious design flaw and it would not function as intended. (The door closer spring just slid it on the wood floor.)
I stuck a bit of rubber to the bottom but it still couldn't keep the door open.

As increasing the coefficient of friction didn’t work, I needed to try something else and as I can do nothing about gravity I went for increasing the mass.
To that end, I drilled out the base and hollowed out the centre on my metal lathe (People that are careful of their machine tools should look away now) but in my defence I did vacuum the chips away as they came off and cleaned up straight away,

View attachment 289933

The added mass came from some scrap lead melted in a stainless measure with a propane torch.

View attachment 289935

I placed the lead in layers and let it cool between pours to keep control of the heat.
I also used a few wood screws as reinforcenebt,

View attachment 289936

The tape is to seal a bad crack, which just adds character (or that's my excuse)

View attachment 289937

The handle is a curtain ring, an oetiker clamp silver soldered to an 8mm self-tappter and a stainless mudguard washer.

View attachment 289938

I'm told it now works as intended.

If you like the crack.
Drill a holecatveach end and fill with a color wax or resin.

It will continue to spread if you are not carefully.

 

[Dcal]

If you like the crack.
Drill a holecatveach end and fill with a color wax or resin.

It will continue to spread if you are not carefully.

Thanks Vark, now it's "fit for purpose" I can sort out the crack.
Would 2k lacquer work? Or should i use a clear epoxy or PU casting resin?

 

[bigegg]

Thanks Vark, now it's "fit for purpose" I can sort out the crack.
Would 2k lacquer work? Or should i use a clear epoxy or PU casting resin?

PU resin doesn't bond so well in my experience, better off forking out for the Pixy resin.