I recall getting a bottle of Coca Cola, a Milky Way bar, and $1.oo from Mr. & Mrs. Kay for about two hours work every other weekend; that was big time money for me.Even back then, your labour rates were too low. Unless you had an expensive girlfriend to maintain.....
Last week I had one of those reverse-Midas-touch periods where everything I touched turned to poo. So I gave the workshop a miss for a couple of days. Virtually everything I touched, broke or stopped working.
We have a two-slot Dualit toaster that has been going strong for about 30 years. It still has the original elements, although I did replace the timer a couple of years ago. Good solid workmanship and materials.Yesterday I fixed the 25 year old Dualit 4 slot toaster, I treated it to a good polish and 5 new elements and a clockwork timer. Total cost £60 and it should be good for another 25 years.
Learned something new, as I sometimes get lost in translation. You call it a Rotor here, overseas its known as an Armature, and where the brushes run over is called the Commutator.
I know it as an armature & commutator, never heard it referred to as a rotor, but it is, ‘cos it goes round ..... or should do!Learned something new, as I sometimes get lost in translation. You call it a Rotor here, overseas its known as an Armature, and where the brushes run over is called the Commutator.
I know it as an armature & commutator, never heard it referred to as a rotor, but it is, ‘cos it goes round ..... or should do!
I always call them a Rotor and stator. As one rotaes and one is stationary.Nope, we call it an armature as well. TYA is law unto himself
And yes, commutator.
We have to fail a PAT test with those older style plugtops. The newer style are insulated on half the length of the neutral and line on the plug pins. I think its to stop little fingers being able to touch the metal of the pin as its inserted into a socket. Not a worry for a workshop tool used by you of course! It may have had an old round pin type from new!View attachment 289232
Got this B&D drill and stand the other day. I was told the drill worked, but the lady was not 100% sure as she had not tested it.
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It did come with a chuck key, but the chuck it self was very still to operate.
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Just showing of the difference, half way through T cutting and polishing the paint.
I didn't opt for a repaint as I still have the water slide transfers on the other side.
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A test before dismantling showed the drill did work, but it was very slow and laboured.
The motor end was full of grease and dried saw dust. I had to use a craft blade to remove most of it. Then it was placed in a hot vapour tank and the rest was soon dripping out.
The end bearing was soaked in engine oil.
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The rotor was cleaned up on a lathe with 0000 grade wire wool.
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The gear box grease was solid. it was like a wax, it was that solid.
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The old grease was removed by boiling it in washing soda.
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It removed all the old grease and freed the chuck up as well.
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All polished, PAT as well, shame I didn't clean the plug when I re-wired it.
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The chuck and key was heated up to about 400Deg C then dipped into old engine oil to blacken it.
It now has a 3" polishing wheel on it and bean used to polish up silver spoons.