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RaceDiagnostics
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Easy side done first.
No sign of oil leaks.
Other side.
This is where the burning smells coming from.
Job done and reward.
No sign of oil leaks.
Other side.
This is where the burning smells coming from.
Job done and reward.
indy4x
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- Pontypool, South Wales. UK
I've done a UJ on a driveshaft
Many years ago, I had a Triumph GT6 Mk2 with a tuned 2.5l in it. Had recently rebuilt the rear halfshafts and uprights with all new bits. Driveshaft had a genuine GKN UJ fitted
Few weeks later, during some very spirited driving the UJ sheared while giving it the beans out of a corner
I sheared a UJ on the intermediate prop on my 4x4 dodge wrecker on the way to a job 
. Luckily it was the short yoke, so I took the front prop off, used the short yoke from that on to the intermediate shaft, and carried on out and did the job.
A lucky escape.
. Luckily it was the short yoke, so I took the front prop off, used the short yoke from that on to the intermediate shaft, and carried on out and did the job.A lucky escape.
RaceDiagnostics
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These UJs are good for 400hp so should last as long as I keep greasing them.
Ive got a assortment of jag arms and halfshafts and u joints, because when I first picked up my 103e Pop as a unfinished project they were in a box with it as "narrowed axle" parts to convert it as it has a currently std width jag irs. Pretty sure there's a few sheared uj's and halfshafts in the collection along with some welded but somehow still in one piece halfshafts you wouldnt want to be near in use and out of index welded lower arms that are best used as shed doorstops!
Today I fettled a gearbox on some implement that was "beyond repair" because someone had butchered the end where the centre drillings were so it span like the wheels on a clown car when held between centres, so couldnt go away for flame spraying on the proper machine.
The input shaft had been damaged by the pilot ball bearing in the flywheel seizing and span inside the bearing enough to chew through 2mm of shaft. Its happened multiple times because it has a extra in the spares cache with the same damage. Sadly the one with the centres unbutchered on the left had cracks in the drive gear teeth so the butchered more banana shaped one it was. They'd both been metal sprayed in the past but were undersized even on the undamaged section, good for repeat business for the spray place anyway. They are really difficult to source replacements for, I think nla now. The drive gear didnt want to move on the shaft with my press to swap the gears either although it did look to be pressed on.
So massaged the saveable shaft straighter in the press between v blocks and then cleaned up the final badness with the drive gear dialed into my 4 jaw chuck and a roller steady on a ring clamped the splined bit to machine it as it was larger than the throat diameter of my harrison lathe.
I dont have metal spraying kit, and didnt fancy putting uneven heat to it to build it back up 2mm with tig because with all the hammer abuse inflicted on it by previous people & press straightening stresses odds on it would go spang and get even more out of true with heat. So instead went for a sleeve repair to restore diameter to the pilot bearing id by making up a thinwall bush on the lathe that was 0.4mm oversize and then grind it to final diameter in situ in the surface grinder to account for any runout. Pressed it on still warm with a slight interference fit with loctite bearing lock for good measure. Theoretically if this is a good fit in the inner race of the pilot bearing, there's no moving element to wear again.
Dont have a pic of the next step because my phone went wonky and didnt save it. Couldnt put it between centers because they weren't true so set up a split block on the surface grinder magnetic chuck that ran on the shaft's bearing surfaces so it could be rotated by hand but had no play with a strategically placed toolmakers clamp spanning the cut section to adjust drag/eliminate play, and with a mill clamp magneted on the mag table to stop it sliding out the blocks either way, then carefully rotated it by hand with hand well out of range of the wheel if anything went wrong, and ground it in so everything was true to the bearing surfaces and it slid into a new pilot bearing with slight drag.
Lots and lots of tedious boring labourious work, rotate gearshaft till it sparks out, move table slightly, repeat and measure, and repeat until final sized. To add insult to injury the first attempt I got impatient and rushed because it was taking too long and missed the final dimension (idiot...), so it was too loose in the new bearing which would have just led to the same problem a few months later, so I had to do it twice after machining off the undersized repair in the lathe again and making another thinwall repair bush. I could have rigged up a cordless drill and a rubber belt to rotate it but I wanted to be able to keep track of what that block felt like during the process so I'd get early warning if it went loose with my mk1 human touch hand sensors.
Its not any thinner post repair than it was before it was stripped and at least now its constrained by the bearing properly, so fingers crossed it holds. New shaft is the proper answer, if we can find one, or at least one that hasnt been sledgehammered into oblivion and can be flame sprayed back oversize (might machine it to final size myself after though having measured the others...)
Today I fettled a gearbox on some implement that was "beyond repair" because someone had butchered the end where the centre drillings were so it span like the wheels on a clown car when held between centres, so couldnt go away for flame spraying on the proper machine.
The input shaft had been damaged by the pilot ball bearing in the flywheel seizing and span inside the bearing enough to chew through 2mm of shaft. Its happened multiple times because it has a extra in the spares cache with the same damage. Sadly the one with the centres unbutchered on the left had cracks in the drive gear teeth so the butchered more banana shaped one it was. They'd both been metal sprayed in the past but were undersized even on the undamaged section, good for repeat business for the spray place anyway. They are really difficult to source replacements for, I think nla now. The drive gear didnt want to move on the shaft with my press to swap the gears either although it did look to be pressed on.
So massaged the saveable shaft straighter in the press between v blocks and then cleaned up the final badness with the drive gear dialed into my 4 jaw chuck and a roller steady on a ring clamped the splined bit to machine it as it was larger than the throat diameter of my harrison lathe.
I dont have metal spraying kit, and didnt fancy putting uneven heat to it to build it back up 2mm with tig because with all the hammer abuse inflicted on it by previous people & press straightening stresses odds on it would go spang and get even more out of true with heat. So instead went for a sleeve repair to restore diameter to the pilot bearing id by making up a thinwall bush on the lathe that was 0.4mm oversize and then grind it to final diameter in situ in the surface grinder to account for any runout. Pressed it on still warm with a slight interference fit with loctite bearing lock for good measure. Theoretically if this is a good fit in the inner race of the pilot bearing, there's no moving element to wear again.
Dont have a pic of the next step because my phone went wonky and didnt save it. Couldnt put it between centers because they weren't true so set up a split block on the surface grinder magnetic chuck that ran on the shaft's bearing surfaces so it could be rotated by hand but had no play with a strategically placed toolmakers clamp spanning the cut section to adjust drag/eliminate play, and with a mill clamp magneted on the mag table to stop it sliding out the blocks either way, then carefully rotated it by hand with hand well out of range of the wheel if anything went wrong, and ground it in so everything was true to the bearing surfaces and it slid into a new pilot bearing with slight drag.
Lots and lots of tedious boring labourious work, rotate gearshaft till it sparks out, move table slightly, repeat and measure, and repeat until final sized. To add insult to injury the first attempt I got impatient and rushed because it was taking too long and missed the final dimension (idiot...), so it was too loose in the new bearing which would have just led to the same problem a few months later, so I had to do it twice after machining off the undersized repair in the lathe again and making another thinwall repair bush. I could have rigged up a cordless drill and a rubber belt to rotate it but I wanted to be able to keep track of what that block felt like during the process so I'd get early warning if it went loose with my mk1 human touch hand sensors.
Its not any thinner post repair than it was before it was stripped and at least now its constrained by the bearing properly, so fingers crossed it holds. New shaft is the proper answer, if we can find one, or at least one that hasnt been sledgehammered into oblivion and can be flame sprayed back oversize (might machine it to final size myself after though having measured the others...)
If it was something I wanted to keep around and use myself for the next few years maybe but there was a element of "a new replacement pilot bearing is here already", & by the end of all that rotating the shaft by hand a strong case of "I never want to see this again ever, jfdi time" had kicked in also.
Today I tidied up the swarf and then got the enthusiasm to get a annoying job off the workshop niggle list by putting a spanner out the junk box on a diet. I noticed afterwards its bsa branded whitworth one, but I remember it coming in a random cantilever toolbox that cost 10e with rusty but interesting contents from a secondhand shop chain (Troc d'Or, literally Gold Barter shop translated to english), which is bizarre itself as everything is metric normally. They probabably looked at all the weird whitworth spanner sizes in it and thought "eh? they've got all the wrong sizes stamped on them, just stick 10e on the box full to get rid of it"
I needed it 4mm thinner because since swapping the cross slide dro scale on my lathe for one thats a bit taller when I fitted a vectoring DRO & now cant get a normal thickness spanner on the saddle lock bolt head and have been putting the apron in gear with the drive dog gear not engaged at the headstock and keeping one hand on the apron handwheel to feel for movement which was a poor disaster skirting solution. On this era Harrison (1962...) the fasteners are imperial so it seems fitting that a rusty birmingham small arms spanner from similar origins has become part of it.
I'm in awe at the sheer amount of work cleaning them up enough to be able to get them looking like that after plating!Bright zink plating is magic
Clips for the airbox..
Before
View attachment 514180
After
View attachment 514179
View attachment 514178
View attachment 514177
Did you bead blast them to prep or something? They look great however you managed!
Is it just me? That image is doing a "does not compute" in my head!!
In an optical illusion kind of way.
julianthegypsy
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Calcut are in Stockton near Southam, long way from brum!
julianthegypsy
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Apparently it's quite painless, unless you get your thumbs caught!We do too. I just used the 'polite' version of the name to avoid painful associations.
I think it's the combination of silver paint, lighting, and the cropping of the image. The "ordinary" lorry wheels above, I'm fine with.must be a perspective issue.
this help?(not same vehicle)
Farside
Badly Welded Man
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It's a wheel hub by Escher Sports.
