- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Unloved sales man Wooden bench model.
Degreasing and cleaning the metal work, all but one bolt was saved.
The slats were placed in a Meths Vapor tank over night. Then sanded, they should of been bleached a bit, but I had no wood bleach.
Hot caustic soda to remove the paint. The modern stuff did not make a dent, a blow torch made to much black smoke.
A wash and scrub with a pan brush and hot water.
In paint.
New SS M4 fixings.
The slats, after sanding were given a few coats of fruit tree fed bee's wax.
In use.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4GdWK_WoNs
Rusty old iron.
Hot Citric to remove the rust.
Having a good dry.
When warm I applied bee's wax and oil.
This was was from a hive that spent the summer near blackberry bushes.
This is how dark that wax was.
One coat.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
https://www.death-clock.org/
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Rusty Avery Potato scales.
I found out, if I striped the old paint of etc, the vale would be less than the £5 I paid for them.
Don't mix theses bits up, they are factory tuned to suit one position.
A dam good wash and scrub.
This was the worse of the rust, but a bit of TYA TLC.
Spot the new fixings?
No, well I used old stuff I had.
It caused issues later, I had to balance the beam, as the replacements were different weights.
as I was assembling the parts I was applying Fruit wood bee's wax.
Those replacements fixings and the mix up of the pivot bars caused me a few issues.
But that what 5am is for.
Full weight set.
4lb to 1/4oz.
Setting them up
You use 2 weights, place them in the scale. Then see which one is down.
Swop them over and it should swop to the other side. If not you will have fun, many coffees and much grumpy.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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A fun and educational build.
Shiny Steve
Member
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- 317
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- kent
I had a little play with the foot plate for my big pillar drill. Someone had knocked a lump out of it in the past, I seem to have had a bit of success with loe hydrogen rods, it was bloody horrible to weld lots of porosity.
Dozzer
Forum Supporter
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- Essex/Suffolk border
No pics. but fixed other half's VW golf undertray that was hanging down,
Made a small flat bracket that bolted onto subframe and supports the tray.
Why do they make them so that its a flimsy bit of plastic on the edge holding them up!!
Made a small flat bracket that bolted onto subframe and supports the tray.
Why do they make them so that its a flimsy bit of plastic on the edge holding them up!!
For holding the plastic from falling down it's not so flimsy . . . but when asked to hold up a tonne plus of car at speed when it gets rammed into the ground, maybe not so much?
dobbslc
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Phone call from wife and boy yesterday,
We've broken down in the Fiat 500
What now?
The AA turned up in less than an hour and jump started it so they got home.
On a brief inspection I found this hiding under the battery tray.
Good job it didn't stall on the way back!
A mate had a bit of 25mm multicore cable courtesy of TFL so I made a new lead up.
Cleaned the bolts etc and refitted and now it works ok.
An easy fix after a very poor few weeks of almost everything going wrong.
We've broken down in the Fiat 500
What now?
The AA turned up in less than an hour and jump started it so they got home.
On a brief inspection I found this hiding under the battery tray.
Good job it didn't stall on the way back!
A mate had a bit of 25mm multicore cable courtesy of TFL so I made a new lead up.
Cleaned the bolts etc and refitted and now it works ok.
An easy fix after a very poor few weeks of almost everything going wrong.
I'd be checking things like the accelerator cable (if it has one?) - anything that might have acted as the earth lead and got cooked and is now about to fail itselfPhone call from wife and boy yesterday,
We've broken down in the Fiat 500
What now?
The AA turned up in less than an hour and jump started it so they got home.
On a brief inspection I found this hiding under the battery tray.
Good job it didn't stall on the way back!
View attachment 436024
A mate had a bit of 25mm multicore cable courtesy of TFL so I made a new lead up.
View attachment 436026View attachment 436025
Cleaned the bolts etc and refitted and now it works ok.
An easy fix after a very poor few weeks of almost everything going wrong.
Cobbler
Codger bodger
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- Gloucestershire UK
Seen a few Mini choke cables glowing where people forgot the earth strap years ago.
Dcal
Member
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- 4,070
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
Today I finished fixing some more rust on my Alfa 159.
This is a bit of a saga, I started in September but I wasn't in a rush, which was just as well.
The rear of the sills are a bit crusty.
This is the worst side, the other side was the same but less so.
Cut out the rust and cleaned it up.
I gave most of the inside two coats of epoxy but I used galv paint on the bits that were to be welded.
Then made a patch.
And welded it in
Cleaned it up and applied two coats of epoxy to the outside with a brush.
That's as far as I got before the test, so I took it for the test.
The test centre with the earliest test available was over 35 miles away and the car hadn't been driven for 6 months but off I headed.
Uneventful trip and the test was started as planned, but they then reversed the car back out of the test centre.
They said there was a fuel leak and they wouldn't carry out the test.
There was no talking to them and I lost the date (and the test fee) so I had to apply for a full new test.
I applied straight away and got a date of February 3rd!
No matter, I don't need the car so I didn't bother looking for a cancellation.
Back home, I checked everything and couldn't find a diesel leak or a leak of anything else.
On further investigation I found it had preformed a DPF regeneration 45 miles ago, so it looks like the smell of diesel was just a hot exhaust.
I was a bit peeved so just let the car sit.
Fast forward to yesterday and I decided to try to try and make the repairs a bit more presentable and closer in colour to the rest of the car.
It's base coat and clear, but now is not the time of year for painting outside so I just gave it a quick lick of 2 pack black.
It was a nice day, very cold and it was almost dark before I started painting.
However, I do have a very powerful infrared heater that warmed the panels nicely and cured the paint in a few minutes (thanks @Pete. )
I'm fairness it turned out ok, and it looks far less obvious than white primer.
I will paint it properly when the weather gets warmer or I get some room cleared to get back inside the garage.
This is a bit of a saga, I started in September but I wasn't in a rush, which was just as well.
The rear of the sills are a bit crusty.
This is the worst side, the other side was the same but less so.
Cut out the rust and cleaned it up.
I gave most of the inside two coats of epoxy but I used galv paint on the bits that were to be welded.
Then made a patch.
And welded it in
Cleaned it up and applied two coats of epoxy to the outside with a brush.
That's as far as I got before the test, so I took it for the test.
The test centre with the earliest test available was over 35 miles away and the car hadn't been driven for 6 months but off I headed.
Uneventful trip and the test was started as planned, but they then reversed the car back out of the test centre.
They said there was a fuel leak and they wouldn't carry out the test.
There was no talking to them and I lost the date (and the test fee) so I had to apply for a full new test.
I applied straight away and got a date of February 3rd!
No matter, I don't need the car so I didn't bother looking for a cancellation.
Back home, I checked everything and couldn't find a diesel leak or a leak of anything else.
On further investigation I found it had preformed a DPF regeneration 45 miles ago, so it looks like the smell of diesel was just a hot exhaust.
I was a bit peeved so just let the car sit.
Fast forward to yesterday and I decided to try to try and make the repairs a bit more presentable and closer in colour to the rest of the car.
It's base coat and clear, but now is not the time of year for painting outside so I just gave it a quick lick of 2 pack black.
It was a nice day, very cold and it was almost dark before I started painting.
However, I do have a very powerful infrared heater that warmed the panels nicely and cured the paint in a few minutes (thanks @Pete. )
I'm fairness it turned out ok, and it looks far less obvious than white primer.
I will paint it properly when the weather gets warmer or I get some room cleared to get back inside the garage.
Dcal
Member
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- 4,070
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
Yes, suspect so.
There is a lap in the sill at the jacking point.
I wouldn't expect it to extend too far though.
There is a also a cover plate at the bottom of the rear arch which must be only 0.5mm thick.
Expect to have to repair that as well.
Couple of photos from the other side that show it better
JOEPRO
Member
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Pete.
Member
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- 14,897
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Yeah it was a fiver in the boot fair
Blue Chips
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I couldn't resist buying another old Stanley level. I like these cast-iron models because you can adjust the vials with shims. This is a 9-inch Model 36G, the "G" indicating a grooved bottom. No exact date, but made sometime after 1935. It was kind of rusty but didn't look too bad otherwise.
I removed the vials and checked the top and bottom for flatness and being parallel with each other. The top of the level wasn't as flat as I would have liked, but that was easily remedied by resurfacing it with my mill. The top and bottom are now flat and parallel to each other within +/- .0005 inch.
I had to drill out two of the set screws that were rusted in, then tap those holes to the next larger size (10-32). I replaced four of the set screws with new stainless conical set screws. I masked the top and bottom, bead blasted the paint and rust off, and then masked it again and repainted the level in satin black.
I installed new brass shims to adjust the vials, which was the tedious part of the restoration, as I had to try different thicknesses of brass shim stock in .001" increments, removing and re-installing each vial every time I tried a different shim thickness, until each vial read accurately. All three are spot on now.
Done!
I removed the vials and checked the top and bottom for flatness and being parallel with each other. The top of the level wasn't as flat as I would have liked, but that was easily remedied by resurfacing it with my mill. The top and bottom are now flat and parallel to each other within +/- .0005 inch.
I had to drill out two of the set screws that were rusted in, then tap those holes to the next larger size (10-32). I replaced four of the set screws with new stainless conical set screws. I masked the top and bottom, bead blasted the paint and rust off, and then masked it again and repainted the level in satin black.
I installed new brass shims to adjust the vials, which was the tedious part of the restoration, as I had to try different thicknesses of brass shim stock in .001" increments, removing and re-installing each vial every time I tried a different shim thickness, until each vial read accurately. All three are spot on now.
Done!
