- Thread starter qwakers
- Start date
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- Sevenoaks, UK
Big problems with the cat on it.
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,811
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
It's quite incredible what is thrown out because people can't fix it. Wasn't there an EU directive made a while back that things must be fixable? Think it stemmed from stuff like sealed washing machine drums.
At the risk of straying into the realm of politics. We aren't in the EU any more. Hopefully sense will be seen and we adopt it anyway.
dobbslc
Forum Supporter
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- 13,150
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- Hertfordshire UK
I bought this fan at the autojumble today for a fiver.
It's got very crusty wiring so after I tested the windings were ok I stripped it down.
I had to unsolder the rotted rubber wire from the windings and then found some two core flat cable and some new grommets to replace the old ones.
A bit of heat shrink and the cable was in but it is a very tight fit under the cover!
It works
It's got very crusty wiring so after I tested the windings were ok I stripped it down.
I had to unsolder the rotted rubber wire from the windings and then found some two core flat cable and some new grommets to replace the old ones.
A bit of heat shrink and the cable was in but it is a very tight fit under the cover!
It works
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
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- 12,811
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- Sevenoaks, UK
One of your many fans?
Maybe a rebore and new piston would help restore some youthful vigour.
The main input breaker / trip from my 100 kva induction furnace. Original was a Socomech 250 amp three phase 415 volt jobby with a 24 volt AC trip coil used for the eStop function. It had physically broken - a die cast zinc spring cup had broken with the force of the tripping spring (30 years old) - I went down a blind alley of 3D printing one for lost PLA casting but then found that the plastic of the main body was dangerously cracked.
Second approach was to replace it with an ABB Sace S3 breaker as the Socomechs weren't around - I found one 225 amp ABB with the 24 volt trip coil and another with the 'through door panel operator' but no handle. (both used on eBay). These were ordered early December and Hermes / Evri lost BOTH of them. Fortunately both seller had replacements which recently arrived.
(NB I drive the furnace from a generator and it draws about 150 / 160 amps per phase so no problem derating from 250 to 225 amps on the breaker)
So yesterday and today I've constructed a Frankenmonster from these two breakers and the original Socomech through door handle.
. . .and it WORKS . . .
Second approach was to replace it with an ABB Sace S3 breaker as the Socomechs weren't around - I found one 225 amp ABB with the 24 volt trip coil and another with the 'through door panel operator' but no handle. (both used on eBay). These were ordered early December and Hermes / Evri lost BOTH of them. Fortunately both seller had replacements which recently arrived.
(NB I drive the furnace from a generator and it draws about 150 / 160 amps per phase so no problem derating from 250 to 225 amps on the breaker)
So yesterday and today I've constructed a Frankenmonster from these two breakers and the original Socomech through door handle.
. . .and it WORKS . . .
redlig
Member
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- 4,197
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- wiltshire uk
Just be careful you don't go too oversize or you will never get a piston to fit.Maybe a rebore and new piston would help restore some youthful vigour.
Scalarocco
Smile, or I'll bite your leg...
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- Rossendale
Easy sleeve...
ajlelectronics
Member
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- 10,841
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- Gloucester, England
I was told years ago that a reline with an elephant's ear is favourite.
Gragson
Member
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- 2,611
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- Bucks
Get stuff left on shed home workbench without even a mention most times to fix.
This! I had to have a word about, should have been chucked in the bin from manufacture for lifting meat joints from oven pan.
Really useful please fix it...
Apologies for the jig, best I could be bothered with, migged both sides, the other prong will probably fall off with a sneeze..
This! I had to have a word about, should have been chucked in the bin from manufacture
for lifting meat joints from oven pan.Really useful please fix it...
Apologies for the jig, best I could be bothered with, migged both sides, the other prong will probably fall off with a sneeze..
why didn't you throw a bit of weld on the other side while you had it in the workshop?Get stuff left on shed home workbench without even a mention most times to fix.
This! I had to have a word about, should have been chucked in the bin from manufacture
Really useful please fix it...
Apologies for the jig, best I could be bothered with, migged both sides, the other prong will probably fall off with a sneeze..
View attachment 380249View attachment 380250View attachment 380251
Dcal
Member
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- 4,063
- Location
- Antrim Northern Ireland
The saga of my broken shaper continues but the end is in sight.
I decided to fill the gap in the machined faces with more brazing.
The bigger block is pretty good so just filled out the smaller piece.
I was just going to grind / file it down but thought I'd try and get the most of the material off with the lathe.
I clamped it in the 3 jaw and dialled it in.
The Boxford isn't the most substantial lathe and there was a bit of vibration so I didn't trust it overly, however it worked well enough.
Turned it over and repeated the exercise.
The repair was twisted so this time I needed to mostly remove cast.
Took the final bit of material off by scraping.
It's not perfect (I can still just see daylight at the T-slot) but I can't get a .02mm feeler gauge in and its tight at the the bolt holes, so I'll call it good enough.
The block runs on gibs so I should be able to adjust out any discrepancy.
I'm going to leave the excess bronze in the T-slots to add a bit of reinforcement.
I decided to fill the gap in the machined faces with more brazing.
The bigger block is pretty good so just filled out the smaller piece.
I was just going to grind / file it down but thought I'd try and get the most of the material off with the lathe.
I clamped it in the 3 jaw and dialled it in.
The Boxford isn't the most substantial lathe and there was a bit of vibration so I didn't trust it overly, however it worked well enough.
Turned it over and repeated the exercise.
The repair was twisted so this time I needed to mostly remove cast.
Took the final bit of material off by scraping.
It's not perfect (I can still just see daylight at the T-slot) but I can't get a .02mm feeler gauge in and its tight at the the bolt holes, so I'll call it good enough.
The block runs on gibs so I should be able to adjust out any discrepancy.
I'm going to leave the excess bronze in the T-slots to add a bit of reinforcement.
droopsnoot
Member
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- 1,325
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- South Cheshire, UK
I've never used a lathe. In my head I imagine that you'll switch it on and as soon as the tool hits the "edge" of that brazing, there will be a massive bang and several broken things. Does that not happen? Is it because you're taking off a really small amount each time?
Dcal
Member
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- 4,063
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- Antrim Northern Ireland
I'm no expert eiither and just try stuff. If it works it works.
Brass and cast iron are relatively soft and with a sharp tool and small cuts they machine well, even with interrupted cuts.
I just used whatever insert was in the tool and hand fed, I'm sure there's is far better ways of doing it, but as I said if it works it works.
Don't know how I managed most of my life without a lathe.
Brass and cast iron are relatively soft and with a sharp tool and small cuts they machine well, even with interrupted cuts.
I just used whatever insert was in the tool and hand fed, I'm sure there's is far better ways of doing it, but as I said if it works it works.
Don't know how I managed most of my life without a lathe.
