Check the data for your machine & if you get the taper out
I would go with a flag shape cut out of a bit of 6 or 10mm bar.
A morse taper (male or female) won't seat with a Jarno or B&S taper anyways. The taper angles are different. It physically wouldn't seat... certainly not well enough to be stuck, anyway.While I agree with you that there is something odd there, I do not think there has been a single machine come from the Meddings factory throughout its long history that had a Brown & Sharpe or Jarno taper.
Wow, thanks for the fast responses!.
I've got a lot to go on here so will give them a whirl at some point this week!
Once again cheers folks! - much appreciated!
Most Jacobs chucks are too old and used now unless you can find new old stock.
The new ones are Chinese for American made money! Just buy a cheap precision Chinese chuck from ArcEuroTrade or see if Cromwell have a deal on anything.
Yeah the rohm stuff isn’t bad.I'm looking at ROHM stuff now as they're made in Germany still (apparently).
I try to avoid buying Chinese made stuff for a few different reasons.
An adaptor sleeve of some description jammed up there?Something obvious from the photo is that there is no damage to the tang. Why is it that the arbor was protruding so much from the quill? It seems to me that there is something amiss with the taper in the quill.
Something obvious from the photo is that there is no damage to the tang. Why is it that the arbor was protruding so much from the quill? It seems to me that there is something amiss with the taper in the quill.
It's not an M3 taper in the drill with a cut 3 to 2 Morse adapter still stuck up there?An adaptor sleeve of some description jammed up there?
The taper on the chuck could be one of the other oddball tapers that exist or even a Morse half size.
Bob
I did wonder, but whys it got the tang hole so you can knock it out if it's not a morse?
.There are other tapers other than Morse like Jarno, Jacobs and Brown &sharpe, there are also half sizes in Morse so 2.5 Morse etc.