Standard 23C Engine Rebuild.

  1. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Problem is Bob with the old 23C Engine you have to lift crank out through flywheel end of the block

    So stand block on end fasten lifting eye onto flywheel mounts then lift out with engine crane. (sighs )
    You therefore have to get pistons and rods out before you can remove the crankshaft. ( Photo from service manual)

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    ^^ I can see where that could be a problem. :laughing:
     
  3. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Yeah you have to get pistons and con rods out of the way before you can remove the crankshaft and with the crankshaft in there is very limited room to get a ally drift in to drive them upwards HAPPY DAYS
     
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  4. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Well as the piston is in the center of the block, my thinking is if you heat the metal surrounding it, it is the heat from that metal that in turn is transfered to the piston. Wont know till I try.

    Another problem is I need to remove the dowel pin from the crankshaft, a decent collet style puller is going to set me back £100 +
    I do not want to use mole grips so my thinking is to get a secondhand collet chuck and then attach that to my slide hammer !!!!!
     
  5. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Would a S & K micro puller do the job? If you think there'd be a chance it would, you're welcome to borrow it.

    upload_2019-10-19_1-57-31.jpeg
     
  6. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Thank you very much for your kind offer
    I will mic up the Diameter of the dowel and get back to you if I may
     
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  7. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    No problem.
    Here's a pic I posted a while ago [note standard mug for reference.....:laughing:]

    [​IMG]

    The legs can be reversed for pulling 'internal' [blind?] bearings too. :thumbup:
     
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  8. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    In the absence of a collet style puller and before taking up slim_boy_fat's kind offer I tried using a large drill chuck tightened up on the dowel and a couple of lever and voila out came the dowel.
     
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  9. arther dailey Member

    Messages:
    3,512
    Location:
    Southampton England
    every little victory is astep forward :thumbup:
     
  10. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Update.

    Well engine inverted and stripdown begun.
    Whilst removing the oil pump drive it appears not only is the engine seized due to rust but possible bearings could be seized as the mills pin that holds oil pump drive gear in place was hiding in the sludge in bottom of timing chain case.
    The position of the crank makes it impossible to remove 1 & 4 big ends at present.
    I tried drifting the pistons on 2 & 3 out but without success so now the plan is to get 4 plates made with 20mm nuts welded to the reverse face.
    These will be dropped down on top of the pistons and MIG welded in place in 4 places.
    I am hoping that then I will be able to use the liner puller Doubleboost made for me and jack liners and pistons out as an assembly.
    By releasing the main bearing securing bolts I am hoping they will rotate in the block allowing everything to rotate.
    If you see any flaws in my plan please say.

    Thanks Tony
     
  11. Woody.v8

    Woody.v8 Blue gluer

    Messages:
    3,192
    Location:
    staffs
    If the pistons are scrap can you not drill a hole in the crown and tap it to take a bolt ?
    You could then draw them out
     
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  12. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Engine inverted and you can see that due to position of crankshaft only 2 of the 4 bolts are accessible on no's 1 & 4.
    Strangely there are no lock tabs on the big end caps
    [​IMG]

    To get the big end caps off I inserted 8mm Rawbolts and wound them up till they had a firm grip and then wiggled them back and forth till the caps came away.
    Big end shells were not as bad as I expected.[​IMG]
     
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  13. zeppelin builder

    zeppelin builder Member

    Messages:
    1,333
    Location:
    peoples republic of scotland
    is it that most of the modern plugs have a resistor in them, old weak magnetos dont like this ,and ht caps with resitors are a no no too
     
  14. 8ob

    8ob Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,893
    Location:
    moscow on thames
    Its what I was getting at on post#19. It should work on the pair that you have released the big end caps on ,you will probably have to tug out the two others at the same time to get the crank to rotate to a position where you can release the other big end caps.

    Bob
     
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  15. fatfranky Member

    Messages:
    223
    Co. Durham UK
    Glad this thread has come back to the top, because coincidentally I’ve picked up an MF 35 with you guessed it, a seized 23C engine, I’m going down this afternoon to start dismantling and see what’s what.


    Many thanks

    Frank
     
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  16. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Hi Bob
    I reckon if I release the main bearing housing securing bolts and the one bolt that secures the center main then hopefully the crank will turn even if bearings are seized. I may pull on 1 and 4 at the same time with a cobbled together version of a liner puller.

    Good luck
     
  17. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Good luck Frank
    If I can be of any help just message me.
     
  18. fatfranky Member

    Messages:
    223
    Co. Durham UK
    Thanks

    Had a couple of hours on it this afternoon, first thing I did was drain the oil, unfortunately lots of water came out with it!

    Removed the head which was easy as the previous owners mechanics had loosely bolted it back on, there was some rusting to the bores but probably not as bad as yours, I then removed the sump and like you could only access 2 of the big ends, in my case 1&4, I loosened no 4 and have drifted the piston 3/4 way up.

    At this point I ran out of time and will need a longer drift, should get back to it during the week

    Progress may be awkward as the tractor is stored in a lock up 20 minutes drive away and if I fail to take all the tools required it’s job stopped

    Hope you don’t mind me posting on your thread, I’d start my own but I always forget to take pics
     
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  19. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Hi Frank
    No problem at all post away.
    At least your ahead of me in getting a piston to move.
    Like you I got a lot of water out when I removed the sump plug.
    I do not know how much you know about the 23C but there is a good video available from The Vintage Tractor Engineer which covers everything from how to remove the engine through to a full rebuild including how to set the timing.
     
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  20. Anthony Spencer

    Anthony Spencer Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    Fareham
    Here is the liner puller John aka DoubleBoost made for me in position, just waiting for the plates to weld into the bores.[​IMG]
    If you do not already subscribe to Johns channel I highly recommend you do.
     
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