Someone on the South Bend forum had found that you can lap these belts by grinding them down to the aramid fibres both sides and using superglue
I also bought a Gates poly-v belt to replace the old flat leather belt that was original. The only problem is that you cannot fit an endless belt to a South Bend so it must be cut and joined. Someone on the South Bend forum had found that you can lap these belts by grinding them down to the aramid fibres both sides and using superglue so I figured I'd do the same. I bought an over-length belt off eBay and cut it then did a quick test to see how it would go.
Ground the belt ends for a nice lap
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Clamped it up with superglue and got a nice joint out of it.
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I couldn't break that 3/4" lap with all my strength so I measure the belt and cut a 3" lap in the ends.
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So far so good and I've left it clamped up on a thick piece of scrap acetal overnight.
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Dont fancy doing mine
Got enough on my plate mate. Work has got going and now I'm going to struggle to get any of my own stuff done.
Anyway, got home from work today and found that my digital tacho had arrived so I jury-rigged it into life and stuck the magnet on the end of a screwdriver so I could waggle it past the sensor to simulate the shaft rotation.
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Some progress made again on this. I've scrapped the idea of the big control box above as it just looks too out of place. Now the VFD is mounted on a bracket on the motor plate and accessible through the front cabinet door I've simplified the controls to On/off, fwd/rev, speed pot and tacho.
Before that can go in I've got to address the problem of the broken tensioner in post #124. The casting has been broken in the past and the whole tensioner system removed. I've fabricated a simple bracket and welded a ball and socket connector salvaged from a heavy door closer. This will do the tensioning now, which won't be often since the VFD will take care of most speed adjustment.
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Needs a lick pf paint before I fit it back in. What I am in two minds over is whether to put the tensioner handle (which I don't have) in the original position OR put an E-Stop button in that hole an move the now-seldom-needed tensioner lever round the side where those other 3 holes are.
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My heart is saying put the handle on the front but my head is saying put an E-stop there where it's handy for the knee if you're running the lathe or for your hand if you've got your head in the cabinet. If It's going to be non-standard anyway why not make better use of the front hole?