Rubber to metal bond

[wyn]

Some sort of cold vulcanizing adhesive.....the sort used for conveyor belt cold joints should work.

I have used something similar that was two part (adhesive/hardener) to stick rubber to steel for wear plates in quarrying....it seemed to handle stones being chucked at it for 8 hours a day pretty well.

 

[anjum]

It might be better to "re-engineer" it to give a mechanical fixing. Peace of mind etc.
Or you could stick some tywraps round it

 

[MattF]

It might be better to "re-engineer" it to give a mechanical fixing. Peace of mind etc.

That's what I'm thinking. Only looks like it's a bump stop type affair. I'd be tempted to weld a threaded rod onto that bottom plate and drill through the other bits, with a counter sunk/bored?, (can never remember the correct term for a flat bottom hole ), hole in the top piece so that the nut would be below the surface. Any old glue would then be usable and just acting as a mild fixative, to stop owt rotating.

 

[atomant48]

That's what I'm thinking. Only looks like it's a bump stop type affair.

No its defintitely a vibration damper of some sort. The 'arm' it bolts to mounts as shown in the vice and the little block just cantilevers off it. THis is why its coming away from the plate i guess, the weight is bearing on the rubber/metal joint.

I have emailed Rema Tip Top as suggested above and will see what they come back with. I may also look into getting something from the states. The vulcanizing solution looks hopeful as well. TBH if it all fails it may just be a case of experimenting with rubber bonded engine mounts etc till i find something that suits.

 

[MattF]

My mistake. Is it still not feasible to just bolt straight through, somehow? Sounds like it'd be a lot more resilient for it.

 

[atomant48]

My thinking is if i bolt it in then it loses the vibration absorption bit. It is a stupid design as i bet (not that there are many of the cars still running) that after a few years they all just fell off anyway (pretty sure this little lump bouncing down the M6 at 70 wouldnt be cool). If its a common application then i might find a newer car that has a similar device and i could mod that.

Just need everyone on the forum to have a look under their cars and see if there are any such devices.....!!

 

[wyn]

You can find them on mitsubishi shogun/pajero transmissions.

The one on my shogun sport has fallen off but it's got enough rattling and rumbling going on that i wouldn't know if it makes any difference.

 

[Robotstar5]

They were fitted to late 80's Range Rover front diff, even had a safety wire in case they fell off

 

[KemppiFrog]

There a couple of bits of cast around the engine mountings of out Twingo, obviously there for vib reasons. Still there after 200K, so the glue must work.

For general purpose metal to other materials, I find Sikaflex 11FC is pretty good. It is a PU and stays a bit flexible. Bonds remarkably well to skin too. DAMHIKT.

 

[atomant48]

There a couple of bits of cast around the engine mountings of out Twingo, obviously there for vib reasons. Still there after 200K, so the glue must work.

200k in a twingo is good going. I bought one brand new when I was living in France. It didn't even come with a radio and when I lifted the bonnet I found they hadn't painted the engine bay...

Ta for the tip though - sikaflex is likely to be available here in uk.

 

[the snooper]

what car is the part from

 

[atomant48]

It's a little 4wd Mazda. The part is shown here behind the crossmember.

 

[Fixer]

Windscreen bonding? comes with a primer for bonding to chassis and one for bonding to old bonding (rubber?) so might be worth testing/experimenting.

 

[selectedgrub]

This.

Rema 2000 I would imagine you could buy from Rema Tip Top. They are a specialist company who rubber line tanks, pressure vessels and pipe work etc. Their stuff would be the best I would think.
Preparation is the key to a good bond, the metal will need shot blasting, then a special primer is applied , a coat of adhesive then another coat will be needed then you will stick the rubber on.You will need to know the type of rubber that you are trying to bond also so they can supply a suitable adhesive. Done properly it will last a life time, done badly and it won't last a day !

 

[slim_boy_fat]

that would help me decide golf was a great hobby

Until a set of carbs randomly fall from the sky, hit you on the head and kill you.

 

[sardine]

I am replacing engine mounts on a generator and the rubber block is sandwiched between two brackets, how are they stuck together because the rubber fails before the bond ?

 

[Porkypine]

I've used tiger seal and similar PU adhesives (alpha is a good one too) to stick rubber seals to land rover vents and the door seals, sticks very well and still firm 5/6 years later

 

[atomant48]

I’ve actually never solved the original issue but I have found a couple “good” dampers. But they are all nearing 40 years old now …. So likely to fail real soon. For @selectedgrub this is on a DOHC Turbo so might be familiar ….

 

[Erie Fred]

dont ever use bison metal to rubber glue i bonded 2 rubber to metal inlet manifolds on me microlite engine , got to 300ft and the engine spitted and farted then conked out after a scary emergency landing found the carbs had fell off and the glue gave way character building stuff

AKA "The Loudest Silence".....

 

[Erie Fred]

I am replacing engine mounts on a generator and the rubber block is sandwiched between two brackets, how are they stuck together because the rubber fails before the bond ?

View attachment 404910

Lord Corp. in Erie, Pa developed the rubber to steel bond, and that failure shown is the correct failure.
FWIW Lord's now makes a glue called "Fusor" and it's suppose to be just as good of a bond.