- Thread starter atomant48
- Start date
chevy2
Member
- Messages
- 1,631
- Location
- Herts.
I often use a product called tiger seal, available from car body shops and suppliers,
Comes in a tube to fit a silicone type gun,
Its a cellulosed based adhesive/sealer thats paintable,
not sure if its suitable for rubber, a google search should bring up the specs and applications?
Comes in a tube to fit a silicone type gun,
Its a cellulosed based adhesive/sealer thats paintable,
not sure if its suitable for rubber, a google search should bring up the specs and applications?
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,242
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
dont ever use bison metal to rubber glue 
i bonded 2 rubber to metal inlet manifolds on me microlite engine , got to 300ft and the engine spitted and farted then conked out 
after a scary emergency landing found the carbs had fell off and the glue gave way 
character building stuff
i bonded 2 rubber to metal inlet manifolds on me microlite engine , got to 300ft and the engine spitted and farted then conked out after a scary emergency landing found the carbs had fell off and the glue gave way character building stuff
chevy2
Member
- Messages
- 1,631
- Location
- Herts.
Dont you mean underpants filling stuff!dont ever use bison metal to rubber glue
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,242
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
brown trousers and bycycle clips
i dunno how i have lived so long and got away with it.
cumbriasteve
Moderator
- Messages
- 9,645
- Location
- Cumbria UK
There is something about sitting at 300 foot watching your carbs falling to earth that would help me decide golf was a great hobbydont ever use bison metal to rubber glue
chevy2
Member
- Messages
- 1,631
- Location
- Herts.
Another brand would be 3M, they do a wide variety of products for this type of thing,
one of their ones that i've used is what they call weatherstrip adhesive, specifically for bonding rubber to steel,
I shipped it over from the US with some other stuff for an american car,
it may be available over here but once again you'll need to check the spec on it.
gordon stephenson
Member
- Messages
- 7,473
- Location
- Skelton in Cleveland U.K.
Would you not be better off searching for metalastic products and adapting the most suitable. Something like the sub-frame mountings from vehicles etc.
atomant48
Member
- Messages
- 1,811
- Location
- Salisbury, UK
Do you mean adapting another part? I guess that could work. I dont actually know what effect not having the little weight on there is - cant tell at the moment as the car doesnt have a back end (or rear chassis to bolt it to!)
As for the 3M - looks like they do have a few products so thanks for that hint but not many coming up available over here. Will have a bigger dig.
dont ever use bison metal to rubber glue
I guess at least you got to a height to have a bit of time to recover it. What did you use in the end?
dan.taylor.1
General Tinkererer
- Messages
- 2,795
- Location
- Kendal, Cumbria
Wurth do one I use for grips on quads and motorbikes, it is like a black thick superglue.
Dan
Dan
atomant48
Member
- Messages
- 1,811
- Location
- Salisbury, UK
Cool. Will take some photos and put them up. Its only little - say the size of a golf ball.Size, weight, exact location and photo's.Depends on how and where it's fitted as to what might work suitably.
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
- Messages
- 9,229
- Location
- South West
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
is it one of the stops that stop the axle hitting the chassis if the suspension bottoms out?
bill_gj
Tired and irritable
- Messages
- 1,423
- Location
- Essex, UK
That's a heavy duty underwear experience.dont ever use bison metal to rubber glue
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,242
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
yea was a bit hairy seeing as though i never had any lessons with an instructor , just jumped in it and off i went
anyone can take off and fly its the coming down thats the problem in one piece . as for the manifolds i sent off for some new ones 
the snooper
getting older by the day
- Messages
- 21,078
- Location
- Hull UK
defeatistyea was a bit hairy seeing as though i never had any lessons with an instructor , just jumped in it and off i went
atomant48
Member
- Messages
- 1,811
- Location
- Salisbury, UK
This is the "weight". Not a very good pic sorry but basically it is a lump of [metal] bonded to the little block of rubber which is then bonded to the small plate it is sitting on. It has come away from this plate.
The unit then attaches to these lugs on the support arm below, and the arm bolts into the rear subframe via the 2 round (metalastic?) bushes. Then the diff is held in through the 2 holes visible (and is also supported by a bracket at the front).
Sorry about the bad pics and messy workbench.
The unit then attaches to these lugs on the support arm below, and the arm bolts into the rear subframe via the 2 round (metalastic?) bushes. Then the diff is held in through the 2 holes visible (and is also supported by a bracket at the front).
Sorry about the bad pics and messy workbench.
Rema 2000 I would imagine you could buy from Rema Tip Top. They are a specialist company who rubber line tanks, pressure vessels and pipe work etc. Their stuff would be the best I would think.
Preparation is the key to a good bond, the metal will need shot blasting, then a special primer is applied , a coat of adhesive then another coat will be needed then you will stick the rubber on.You will need to know the type of rubber that you are trying to bond also so they can supply a suitable adhesive. Done properly it will last a life time, done badly and it won't last a day !
Preparation is the key to a good bond, the metal will need shot blasting, then a special primer is applied , a coat of adhesive then another coat will be needed then you will stick the rubber on.You will need to know the type of rubber that you are trying to bond also so they can supply a suitable adhesive. Done properly it will last a life time, done badly and it won't last a day !
