Rendering inside a fireplace

[123hotchef]

Cement board top and sides plastered wall around see the cracks in the plaster under the mantel piece

 

[mike os]

Just use a 'normal ' cement render but replace half the cement with lime ( or a little bit more)

Do it in 2 or 3 thin keyed coats then slim as normal.... no heat for at least a month

 

[mike os]

Alternatively use masterboard and dry line...

 

[dannyp]

sand cement render, f its bad put some sharp sand in the sratch coat, if its really bad chuck some fibers in there. if its worse than that shuttedrs and fill up behind them

 

[magnet]

I used floor tiles to line my fireplace no problems in 10 yrs

 

[eSCHEn]

Well I've got the dross cleaned off, hole cavern from the removed back boiler filled up. Decided a quick repoint wouldn't take long and here's where it's at:


I'll clean off the bricks later with a wire brush when dry. Once it's totally dry we'll see what we have. For me that's a decent enough job. I'm sure you pros are aghast with disgust though :P

 

[julianf]

You could have left the pointing, and the plaster would have had more to key into.

But I'm sure it will be fine all the same.

 

[eSCHEn]

Well I looked at the repair I did and wasn't disgustipated by it like I normally am with my brickwork. I thought I'd point it for the practise but actually now I've washed the brickwork after the pointing I (and more importantly, she) am happy with it:


Still have to make a flue adaptor plate and lobsterback some 4" pipe but for me this stuff was the difficult bit so I'm pretty chuffed. Thank you all for the advice and I've filed the lime information away Julian and will be using it in the future

 

[Migmac]

That looks darn good

 

[eSCHEn]

Thanks mate, I'm very happy with it as bricks and mortar are not my strong skill.

Final result will only be known when it's fully dry and the mortar's gone off so it could all look utterly crap yet!

Wee stove is (I hope) getting painted in cream and green. Hearthstone will be 800 x 450 x 70 pieces of our finest dressed local red sandstone. Very nice indeed and I hope I don't screw that bit up either!

 

[pedrobedro]

If it's for a fire in the house don't go any less than a 5" flue pipe.

 

[Parm]

I'd be happy with that, looks good to me, would even bother with a plaster coat or paint

 

[eSCHEn]

Providing it dries okay and the sealer isn't a pain I'll be done with it. Stove will take up the majority of it and the sandstone looks nice so will draw your eye away

 

[123hotchef]

looks great mate well done

 

[julianf]

If it's for a fire in the house don't go any less than a 5" flue pipe.

Document J states diameter of solid pipe exiting the appliance to be greater than or equal to the diameter of the port on the appliance.

The minimum diameter for flexible is 6 inches, or the diameter of the appliance outlet - which ever is GREATER.

To get a new install signed off, you also need the required clearences, hearth dimensions, etc, not to mention your co2 alarm, and information plate.

Oh, and your cheque for £180 quid for some chap to come round and tell you that you've done the job properly... : /

 

[addjunkie]

If your stone is straight from the quary it may be damp inside, there is a chance it make crack if you heat it up too quickly. In an old house o lined the fire place with sandstone, about an inch thick, looked grat, loved it, sealed all the stone for the look.

Come winter put fire on, cooked the house, stone cracked, was the main back piece done in one piece...

In this place we went from the ugly cow boy 70s, to the replaced rustic.

 

[Member 66061]

I had to do the same thing. The previous occupant had fitted a stove, but not very well at all. Put up with it for a long time, but it reached the end of its life, started cracking, became derelict, so i had to replace it. I got a stove from a friend for £50 and started from there. Pulled the old stove out, knocked the bricks out that were behind the old stove, repaired the damage they had caused by removing bricks from under the lintel (dont ask me why they did this) I rendered inside the aperture and where the render had came off from where the surround was removed and then plastered, cast a new hearth and tiled. I made a register plate from 1/8th inch sheet and lined the flue with 6" liner.
The dog likes to lie in the sunshine, or where its hot. These are the only pictures i have.

 

[eSCHEn]

Flue pipe going together now. Gone for a saddle rather than a lobsterbacked bend as it was just plain easier to cut on the plasma and I could get a nice close fit.

All marked up ready to cut using my jig I designed myself

The other end ready to be cut based on a jig from t'internet after I realised mine was vastly wrong Evidence of failure in background

Test fit after cutting and rough cleaning.

I know @Richard. is always saying "a good helmet makes a better welder"; and I know I sort of believed what he said as his results show but, I like to be sure so I thought I'd test it.

I've gotten a loaner from a mate which I has a balder lens in it. I'm comparing against my other current mask, a Parweld XR916H. I'm not backpurging but using foil tape instead.

So I began by tacking at 12, 4 and 8 o' clock with the Parweld and I'll be honest, it was awful. I've replaced the batteries and still just really crap response with flickering. The mask isn't usually this poor a performer so I think it may need a new outer lens. Here's one of the three tacks I did with the stormtrooper helmet. all I managed.

Hmmm. Best we move on.

Next up I swapped to the posher mask and I think the results speak for themselves.

Okay I'm no uber pipe meister but I'm happy enough given all I did was change masks.

To be honest it's not a fair test as the Parweld is obviously faulty and needing a new outer. I'll pick one up when the pennies allow such a frippery and re-do this test

For technique (ha!) I just freehanded it with a 0.5mm stickout at 75A.



Right, the remaining parts should be nice and cool now. New tunes and here we go!

 

[Member 66061]

I should add that i sweep the flue (8 metre) through the fire, all i have to do is take the grate and baffle out. I use special flexible nylon rods and brush like these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flu-Flex-...ners-with-free-brush-1-5-length-/112058005303 Takes about 10 mins, so no excuses for not doing it regularly.

 

[lexi]

Carlite Bonding can be used on a main wall outside the fire where a bit little of heat is.
Bonding has Perlite in it which has refractory properties.