Recommendations for a WP20 flex head torch

[MattH]

Nice to see the torch was as good as it looked in the auction

Yes mate, it's spot on. Thanks for the heads up. FYI I don't need the 25ft version so if you ever need to swap then I'd be more than happy with that.

 

[Richard.]

Yes mate, it's spot on. Thanks for the heads up. FYI I don't need the 25ft version so if you ever need to swap then I'd be more than happy with that.

Ha you'll regret that one day.
You don't need it NOW!!
But you have it when you do.

 

[MattH]

This is how ive been doing them over the last couple years.
I keep the angles roughly the same all the time the only thing I change is the size of the cone at the top. If I want a bigger ball to develop I'll make that cone bigger and grind it on further down the narrow. So far it's the most reliable prep ive found for consistency. Obviously the balance setting is going to have an effect on it like all ac preps

Got your care package today mate, thank you very much. Christ on a bike that's some prep, don't even know if I can replicate that :-).
Couple of questions, first what kind of current can that DC prep handle, it's like a sawing needle. Second, what balance should I use to ball up the tip of the AC prepped tungsten? And lastly I am using a bench grinder for the prep, can you (or @HughF ) recommend a wheel as I am using a crappy soft one at the mo.

Lastly, can you chaps recommend where to get filler from? Hugh, you gave me a bunch of (is it 5356?) which seems to be working well and I like to get some more.

 

[Richard.]

The preps are all done on a soft green wheel 120 grit
They don't last long but they produce quality preps which is more difficult on a course hard wheel.
Second that 1.6 will cope with 120 amps all day. They do dull off but a little touch up will see it back to perfection. Touching down or stabbing with the fill will soon demolish it mind as you know.
Those AC tungstens will suffice on a 60% balance short blast at 100 amps till you see the tip ball up then use them at 70% till your hearts content and they should remain stable. Don't let the width of the ball protrude the width of the top angle. The idea is they remain focused. My machine might be different to yours so have a bash and see how you get on. There is a degree of skill in prepping and balling. I have a tungsten pre prepped for different joints my fillet joint prep has a tiny top prep and tiny ball. For butts and cast its a bit wider to offer a little more arc spread.

 

[HughF]

When I was at the sheet metal shop we would prep on a belt sander, that also gives good results. Personally I prefer a belt to a wheel/bench grinder.

Personally I ball mine up on max cleaning but I feather the pedal in till the ball is the size I want. I have started using a pointed 2% lanth on the GP2 and it holds a point for a long time so I don't tend to pre-ball so much with the new machine.

 

[Richard.]

When I was at the sheet metal shop we would prep on a belt sander, that also gives good results. Personally I prefer a belt to a wheel/bench grinder.

Personally I ball mine up on max cleaning but I feather the pedal in till the ball is the size I want. I have started using a pointed 2% lanth on the GP2 and it holds a point for a long time so I don't tend to pre-ball so much with the new machine.

I hate belt sanders for tungstens.
Personal preference but a wheel is more to my taste.
Regarding balling there is no written rule. So long as your ep% with the current applied is greater than the point/prep can cope with it will ball. You can then generate the ball size with more current applied so Hugh's way is more controlled. My figures of 60% at 100 amps are an idea of what would work as apox setting levels. It only works to a point. Go too far and it is no longer a ball but a mess. Welding ac with a point is doable but less cleaning and lower current is key I always like a little ball even if it's very tiny again personal preference.

 

[MattH]

When I was at the sheet metal shop we would prep on a belt sander, that also gives good results. Personally I prefer a belt to a wheel/bench grinder.

Personally I ball mine up on max cleaning but I feather the pedal in till the ball is the size I want. I have started using a pointed 2% lanth on the GP2 and it holds a point for a long time so I don't tend to pre-ball so much with the new machine.

I have a little Clarke bench grinder that has a sanding belt at one end. I'll pop a green wheel on there and a fine belt and then I've got the best of both worlds. TBF it doesn't get used for anything really as it doesn't have the power so I can dedicate it to Tungsten prep.

 

[Richard.]

The problem I find with belt sanders is they wear. You don't get a consistent grit once a tungsten has been over it like a wheel. They are also a belt and no matter how well adjusted they are they will never offer a firm surface like a wheel. That's my take on it and each to there own

 

[MattH]

I'll give both a try. I use a wheel now but I'll see which I prefer.

 

[HughF]

The ones we used were with a belt over metal backing plate, 6 inch wide jobs. I agree, unbacked belt would be all too floppy.

 

[HughF]

Did you get the torch hooked up okay Matt?

 

[MattH]

Did you get the torch hooked up okay Matt?

Not yet, I'm heading up the shed in a bit.
Pics will follow.

 

[Tigman]

evening all
that prep looks great Rich I will give that a go next Alli job that comes in !

Thanx very much

 

[MattH]

Well strangely I couldn't get on with the prep you out on that Richard. Really struggled, balled it up ok (first pic) and then did two butts and an outside fillet and just had really poor control of the arc.
Reground with a more standard (for me anyway) 60deg point, balled it up and then laid a inside fillet with no issues what so ever.

 

[Richard.]

Strange. I find its my favourite by a clear mile.
The main thing is your finding your own way.

 

[MattH]

Strange. I find its my favourite by a clear mile.
The main thing is your finding your own way.

Maybe it's the RTech, it's not exactly up to the standard of machine that you are using.

 

[norlander]

Still look good Matt, Richard has stressed that his settings etc are baseline, there are so many variables in the process, quality of electric supply, quality of tungsten; filler rod, and the quality of the machine itself.
I think you have cracked it basically as you are thinking your way to your preferred set up/settings. I'd be well happy with those results.

 

[Richard.]

Stunning every time. I doubt it's the machine. Like I say it's a personal thing and your achieving with your way which is much better than struggling with someone else's

 

[ukracer]

Maybe it's the RTech, it's not exactly up to the standard of machine that you are using.

oh no Oh no Oh no. lol ROTFLMAO.

 

[ukracer]

Still look good Matt, Richard has stressed that his settings etc are baseline, there are so many variables in the process, quality of electric supply, quality of tungsten; filler rod, and the quality of the machine itself.
I think you have cracked it basically as you are thinking your way to your preferred set up/settings. I'd be well happy with those results.

Its a brilliant thread.

It is showing up that Tig is not point and squirt and seems to be individual preferences and work methods that affect things not just the machines ...