skotl
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Yeah - I suspect the saw arm will come away (it certainly tried to escape when we were lifting it!). Taking the motor off would help, too.
- Thread starter jimbo84
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brightspark
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the rapidor in picture with the open cast frame can easily be pulled in to a small trailer with a plank and 2 people in one lump
There doesn't seem to be anything that stops the blade hitting the cast iron base once it has cut through the material, is there something missing from the saw to stop this happening? The only way I could see to stop it would be to put something solid in the bottom of the oil damper or to make another stop for the bonnet catch type lever that holds it into the up position.
The lever that disengages the clutch once it has cut works ok it just then hits the cast iron which won't do the blade much good I wouldn't have thought.
The lever that disengages the clutch once it has cut works ok it just then hits the cast iron which won't do the blade much good I wouldn't have thought.
eLuSiVeMiTe
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brightspark
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il check when I take dog out later but the stop on mine is the damper rod just sits on the bottom I think
Sounds like I need to just put some large washers in the bottom of the damper tube then
brightspark
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heres mine the bolt just sits on the bottom of the damper when its finished cutting . to be honest I don't bother filling it with oil and the blades last years also a picture of the stop microswitch I put on that cuts the contactor and motor when its finished cutting
I replaced the oil in the damper today as it was an emulsified mess (it had been left outside by the old owner). It's missing the round threaded bar that goes to the plunger that yours seems to have, it's just the square bar to my plunger.
It's a bit of a mess mine looking at it closer today. It had a shorter (12inch) blade on it that he'd cobbled on but in the process lost the original blade bolts and had bent the stud that locks the block the blade sits in to the bow, which snapped off when I undid it so had to drill out and nut and bolt it all which works fine now. It has the adjustable vice on it but all the bolts are seized so left them soaking to try and free off. Quite enjoying getting it back into some sort of decent shape though.
brightspark
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blades are 14 inch on them
It's now sporting a 14 inch blade.I'd assumed the threaded screw with the spring on the bottom was to adjust oil flow but I wonder now if this is to control where the blade bottoms out. I'll get a long bolt to screw into that damper and see what happens.
thanks to everyone for all the info
brightspark
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it is the adjustable damper rod . the roundish ball has flats on it with holes through and the big washer underneath is spring loaded to allow a small amount of oil through on the return stroke damping it. as I said I don't bother with it as the blades last ages . I sometimes push hard on the bow to get extra cut 
Fitted a longer bolt to the bottom of the plunger and the saw now stops before hitting the frame.
A couple of further questions
I have the blade fitted so that it is cutting on the push stroke, as you would do with a hand hacksaw. The machine though is lifting on the push stroke and bearing down on the pull stroke. Should the blade be in the other way round?
Crude diagram of how I have the blade fitted. Pulley rotates clockwise as you look at it.
Rewired the motor as the cable was very ropey, took the motor off as it was easier than doing it on the machine and found this reset button hidden on the bottom of the motor, thermal overload?
Motor plate.
A couple of further questions
I have the blade fitted so that it is cutting on the push stroke, as you would do with a hand hacksaw. The machine though is lifting on the push stroke and bearing down on the pull stroke. Should the blade be in the other way round?
Crude diagram of how I have the blade fitted. Pulley rotates clockwise as you look at it.
Rewired the motor as the cable was very ropey, took the motor off as it was easier than doing it on the machine and found this reset button hidden on the bottom of the motor, thermal overload?
Motor plate.
It would make more sense for it to cut on the pull with the way the weight is lifted off the blade on the push. It does still cut through with the blade cutting on the push.
I think I'll try it in the other way round and see what happens with it cutting on the pull instead.
