Pigeon_Droppings2
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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I've done a little thinking about a re-design of the light socket and done a mock up in card.
Purists should stop reading at this point....the idea is to flatten off the bottom of the light socket to give me enough room to seal the boot floor under the light properly with seam sealer. I'm also planning to remove a small amount of metal (black Sharpie in the last picture)...this would then allow the boot to drain into the lower corners...the idea being that corners are far easier to replace than the rest of the rear!! I will work out an additional drain in the lower corners. I learnt a very long time ago that you can't really stop water....but you can redirect it out of the way!
I will also add a drain hole in the lower part of the light socket so it drains into the boot...instead of the water sitting in the socket and then working it's way into the rear seam!
Purists should stop reading at this point....the idea is to flatten off the bottom of the light socket to give me enough room to seal the boot floor under the light properly with seam sealer. I'm also planning to remove a small amount of metal (black Sharpie in the last picture)...this would then allow the boot to drain into the lower corners...the idea being that corners are far easier to replace than the rest of the rear!! I will work out an additional drain in the lower corners. I learnt a very long time ago that you can't really stop water....but you can redirect it out of the way!
I will also add a drain hole in the lower part of the light socket so it drains into the boot...instead of the water sitting in the socket and then working it's way into the rear seam!
jpmillermatic
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When I built my Bimmer trailer, I had to take this into account in many places as the tonneau cover simply sits on top of the doors, parcel shelf and front edge. I made channels to redirect the water so the tonneau cover could simply float above the surrounding material.
I "guided" any water from the parcel shelf edge and door tops into the channel between the door and rear fender panel and from the front edge of the door and front corner into the front channel. (to the outside of the rubber door seal of course)
For some reason with your project, sections of tubing or concave funnels come to mind. So do other types of diverters....which can be simply small L-shaped sections of material strategically shaped and oriented. I like the fact that you are modifying certain areas that you know will be water traps again....this is just plain common sense....kudos in that regard.
those repairs look nice and strong and clean to me!
JP
I "guided" any water from the parcel shelf edge and door tops into the channel between the door and rear fender panel and from the front edge of the door and front corner into the front channel. (to the outside of the rubber door seal of course)
For some reason with your project, sections of tubing or concave funnels come to mind. So do other types of diverters....which can be simply small L-shaped sections of material strategically shaped and oriented. I like the fact that you are modifying certain areas that you know will be water traps again....this is just plain common sense....kudos in that regard.
those repairs look nice and strong and clean to me!
JP
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Cheers JP....yea I had the same thought regarding the water drainage....I definitely need to re-engineer the sill drainage for sure.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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I started by making up this small bit that sits under the boot. I've used thicker steel so hopefully it will last a little longer. It was quite a challenge getting the shape right as there is also a slight curve across the rear of the boot. The way the shape came out the bottom lip ended up a bit narrow on the left so I had to add a piece in but otherwise happy enough. It was a bit of a challenge getting this aligned...in the end I popped to the drive and took a template of Chung Lee (my 2nd Figaro)...I did have a poke around the boot of course when I was there....it's a bit of a house of horrors so I think I've actually started with an easy one!!!
Pigeon_Droppings2
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I flattened out the light sockets by just going straight across them...I left a lip at the front of the panel to help guide the water away from the front seam....difficult to see in the pic but there is a notch cut out of the front middle which will act as a drain. I may also but a drain hole at the other end...plan is to get it all done...then when it's back on the floor I'll tip some water into the sockets and see if they drain.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Next up was the difficult bit ..I wanted a single piece across the light sockets....I almost managed it except I accidentally cut the bottom lip too short so I had to add a piece on...it was extremely annoying! This was by far the most difficult repair piece I've ever made I think....it looks close enough to the original for what I want. I think this took a few hours just on its own!
I need to tinker around with the bottom lip but was just too shattered I called it a day. In the first picture you can see the gap I left for the light sockets to drain....I welded the lip and smoothed the edges as this is an area where someone might put a hand.
I need to tinker around with the bottom lip but was just too shattered I called it a day. In the first picture you can see the gap I left for the light sockets to drain....I welded the lip and smoothed the edges as this is an area where someone might put a hand.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Pigeon_Droppings2
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Managed to get the outer light panel back in...it will need just a little bit of filler but looks really good I think. The hole in the bottom flange I think is the original drain hole...I improved the drain by shaping out the rear panel (last picture).
I also decided not to close the side of the light socket...This will allow water to escape should the bottom drain get blocker....I know this is all a bit over kill but I really want to rear end drainage sorted.
I also decided not to close the side of the light socket...This will allow water to escape should the bottom drain get blocker....I know this is all a bit over kill but I really want to rear end drainage sorted.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Had a play with the side panel...I then fitted the lower panel once I had the side aligned. This stuff seems to take me a very long time for some reason....the lower panel weld wasn't great...I think I didn't clean the rear of the panel properly so was my fault to be honest...ended up under the car cleaning and welding which I was actually trying to avoid in the first place!
The lower panel was quite difficult as the outer panel needed to be fitted...then the lower panel offered up...repeat that about a dozen times and you get the idea....each time tweaking the panel to get it to fit.
The lower panel was quite difficult as the outer panel needed to be fitted...then the lower panel offered up...repeat that about a dozen times and you get the idea....each time tweaking the panel to get it to fit.
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jpmillermatic
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it wont be overkill when it works and omits a known area of rot on those little cars. I see there is one being worked on over at RR too...guess where the rot is?
I know what you mean about offering up over and over......that is a tough little panel to get right, Im sure.....
JP
I know what you mean about offering up over and over......that is a tough little panel to get right, Im sure.....
JP
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Cheers JP...also my way of thinking...much easier to do things with the back of the car removed rather than try to fix the drainage when it's all back together again.
Made a start on the passenger side wheel arch...bit of a house of horrors but I got it all cleaned up. Managed to use that rear arch panel that I made a few weeks ago so it didn't go to waste in the end...got half the inner arch repair with it....came out quite well I think.
Unfortunately that was the last of my steel supply...I've been picking through the scrap box for days now! Also my evolution power file has been on the blink...I decided to bite the bullet and buy the Black and Decker one that I originally had. The evolution has been a real disappointment...it constantly throws belts across the room and then the bearing packed in...I switched to the second arm that came with the tool....that literally died in a few days of use!
Made a start on the passenger side wheel arch...bit of a house of horrors but I got it all cleaned up. Managed to use that rear arch panel that I made a few weeks ago so it didn't go to waste in the end...got half the inner arch repair with it....came out quite well I think.
Unfortunately that was the last of my steel supply...I've been picking through the scrap box for days now! Also my evolution power file has been on the blink...I decided to bite the bullet and buy the Black and Decker one that I originally had. The evolution has been a real disappointment...it constantly throws belts across the room and then the bearing packed in...I switched to the second arm that came with the tool....that literally died in a few days of use!
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slim_boy_fat
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Must be you.....
, I've had no problems with mine and it gets used quite a bit, both on wood & metal. 
Pigeon_Droppings2
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When my evolution arrived I gave away my old B&D...it seems no good deed goes unpunished! Their chop saw is amazing so was very disappointed....maybe I got a duff one or something.
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Got the second bit of the inner arch done...definitely a bit fiddly getting it in the right place but it's done. Still needs a little tweaking but getting there...slowly! I did the lower corner first as I was able to locate it using the outer quarter panel that I chopped out
jpmillermatic
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Man!...how do you go so fast?!?....must be experience and talent....Im working on both, I guess! that looks really nice...
I just HATE the area where two pieces of metal join together like this...rot seems to be lurking...and unless the area has been rust proofed, and maintained, its gonna rot....looks like you are on the other side of it with this fender...
nice
JP
I just HATE the area where two pieces of metal join together like this...rot seems to be lurking...and unless the area has been rust proofed, and maintained, its gonna rot....looks like you are on the other side of it with this fender...
nice
JP
Pigeon_Droppings2
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Hi JP...not totally sure I'm that fast....still takes me a couple of hours to effect a repair. I do seem to be getting a lot better at turning out the repair sections in steel which is something that used to take me a long time. The inner arch above was made using a plywood template...I couldn't use my shrinker to do it as the throat isn't deep enough. So I cut a template using the outer arch repair panel as a template and then beat the steel around the plywood. Quite often the plywood gets quite busted up but I usually end up with a part thats fairly close.
Often I'm using the ply template to get me half way there and then I'll perfect with the shrinker/stretcher. I've bought a small bandsaw just for cutting out the templates so it's very quick...the band saw was £100 but I swapped the cheap blade for a good one and it cuts very nicely indeed....good enough for making templates. The bottom corner was also done with a ply template...knocked the flange over and then shrunk it to get the curve along the edge.
Often I'm using the ply template to get me half way there and then I'll perfect with the shrinker/stretcher. I've bought a small bandsaw just for cutting out the templates so it's very quick...the band saw was £100 but I swapped the cheap blade for a good one and it cuts very nicely indeed....good enough for making templates. The bottom corner was also done with a ply template...knocked the flange over and then shrunk it to get the curve along the edge.
