Progress 2G Drill

[ronan]

Lathes.co.uk are advertising spares for fobco drills, aren't these the fore runner to the elliot progress drills ?

 

[MattF]

Around 2/3's less runout now then. Quite a notable difference. I once had a Clarke pillar drill which was way out. Must be a general quality thing.

That quill bit definitely sounds as if there's something wrong, IMHO. Can't ever recall offhand using a pillar drill where it's that tight, rather just being a good slide fit. There's no noticeable visible binding?

 

[rtbcomp]

I understand Fobco made drills for Elliott, but I don't think they simply re-badged Fobcos.

I've noticed a couple of narrow vertical lines on the quill, which would suggest high spots within the head, although I couldn't see or feel anything. I'll drop it out again and have a closer look.

 

[MattF]

Might be worth dropping some oil down there and rubbing it all over the surface. Sometimes makes it a bit easier to see any surface imperfections.

 

[rtbcomp]

Plenty of oil. A good way of getting oil in is to remove the quill clamp and squirt it into the hole. It will also find its way into the lower spindle bearing.

I've been under there with a bright torch and found a burr raised on the head casting, but not where the lines were. Looks like they were caused by the quill rubbing on the clamp at some time.

I've reduced the burr and it's OK now, I've also increased the tension on the return spring, I probably wasn't brave enough before!

When dropping the quill, you can use the tool tray to stop the star wheel from spinning round under spring tension.

 

[MattF]

Good to hear you found the cause of the binding. Has it made a notable difference to the quill movement?

 

[rtbcomp]

Yes, it feels much better. I think I could still do with more tension on the spring, but I'm not sure how tight it should feel when turning the knob.

One thing that has amazed me - not the slightest hint of an oil leak anywhere!

Hope to get the pictures of the quill assy. up soon.

 

[MattF]

Yes, it feels much better. I think I could still do with more tension on the spring, but I'm not sure how tight it should feel when turning the knob.

Good to hear. If it were I, I'd just go with using it as is and see how you fare. You'll get a better idea of how much more tension, if any, you want once you start using it.

One thing that has amazed me - not the slightest hint of an oil leak anywhere!

Always a good sign.

 

[atconut]

evening all. good to see the drill is almost done RTB i've still a bit to do on mine yet. it's up and running but the belt guard is still to do but i can't sort that out untill ive sorted out the pulley. i can't get a five step pulley anywhere loads of four step but not a chance of a five step. trust me i've been everywhere. keep up the good work RTB I love to see old machines brought back to life

 

[rtbcomp]

I've just cleaned the chuck guard up and need to devise an interlock for the cover then it's done. I've used it a couple of times and it's a joy to use.

 

[MattF]

I've just cleaned the chuck guard up and need to devise an interlock for the cover then it's done. I've used it a couple of times and it's a joy to use.

Good to hear it's repaying the time and effort you've put into it. Regarding the interlock, are you planning on mounting a switch on the top plate or the cover itself? Can't think of the proper name for them offhand, but one of the switches with the metal arm which depresses/releases the plunger in the switch body would probably be a simple method. Bolt that somewhere and then just bend and/or lengthen the arm so it closes/opens when the cover is replaced/removed. I'll remember the name of them shortly.

 

[rtbcomp]

It's called a microswitch.

I thought of making a bracket and mounting one on the stud that the cover locates on, that would avoid drilling holes and altering the drill.

There should be a long compression spring on the outside of the hollow stud that's fixed to the knob on the top of the cover, that could be made to operate the switch lever.

Otherwise a magnet glued to the cover could operate a reed switch, such as those used in burglar alarm circuits.

Whichever method I use care will have to be taken so that the connections are completely concealed.

 

[MattF]

It's called a microswitch.

That's the beastie. Could remember the name of just about every other switch type but those, offhand.

Whichever method I use care will have to be taken so that the connections are completely concealed.

Aye, t'would be a devil if a wire got trapped or chafed. A reed switch setup could theoretically be problematic. A bit of magnetic buildup, (is that the correct term, or merely use magnetism?), on the machine, or some poorly placed magnet in a moment of forgetfulness could easily bypass that safeguard.

 

[rtbcomp]

Residual magnetism

I suppose it could be a problem, on all the equipment I've ever worked on interlocks have always been mechanically operated.

The bit about concealing the connections was to ensure that an exposed conductor couldn't be touched with, say, a screwdriver. Those push-on connectors always leave a little bit exposed.

 

[MattF]

Residual magnetism

Christ, I'm just way off form today. I'd best turn my computer off before I end up saying something really stupid.

The bit about concealing the connections was to ensure that an exposed conductor couldn't be touched with, say, a screwdriver. Those push-on connectors always leave a little bit exposed.

That's nowt you can't sort with either some heatshrink or, at a push, amalg.

 

[Robotstar5]

The bit about concealing the connections was to ensure that an exposed conductor couldn't be touched with, say, a screwdriver. Those push-on connectors always leave a little bit exposed.

Tell me about it!, I got a shock off one at work when I reached over to move the belt to a different pulley

 

[atconut]

what's the next project going to be then RTB? have you got something in mind? maybe something to stand at the side of the new drill

 

[rtbcomp]

My 1909 Drummond lathe is next, I've dusted it down and lubricated it - soon to appear in the "Show us Your Lathes" thread. Then I've got a small Union bench drill, and an unknown scroll saw. I doubt whether I'll go into these in as much detail - a case of "if it ain't broke don't fix it."

Then the ultimate challenge - getting my Sip TopMig 195 to weld properly.

 

[atconut]

OOHH can't wait for the lathe. you know i said i can't get a pulley anywhere i got fedup trying to get one so i decided to make one. trouble is i don't have a lathe hence my next project this is what i've been doing for the last few weeks. i'll give you a look at it so far but i'll keep the rest for the thread

 

[MattF]

What cleaning/derusting method have you used to get all of the metalwork so shiny, or were you lucky in that it was already in good nick?