Progress 2G Drill

[rtbcomp]

Still too busy at work. Got the motor bracket, a few odds & sods and gearbox side blasted ready for painting.

Can't get near to it at the moment, there's a pile of blasted (in two senses of the word) scooter bits piled up in front of it.

The drum switch won't fit in the hole, it's one of These, or at least an older model.

 

[atconut]

behind the alli cover on mine there is one of these or should i say a much older version loads on fleebay just search rotary switch

 

[katluke]

Epic thread .Been looking at buying a pillar drill and have been advised off a few people to buy an older one and recon it,looking at the work thats gone into this im not too sure now.

 

[rtbcomp]

You'd be OK with one that has stepped pullies and no gearbox. Just check there is no sideways play in the chuck, with it in both the top and bottom positions.

 

[ronan]

Epic thread .Been looking at buying a pillar drill and have been advised off a few people to buy an older one and recon it,looking at the work thats gone into this im not too sure now.

Its a better idea than buying one of the appalling chinese knock-offs , we had one in work and it was hopeless, no rigidity, power , and a really poor design. I got a progress off a friend who lifted it out of a skip in work and even with 30 or 40 years of wear and tear is miles better than the chinese stuff.

 

[atconut]

Mine is nearly finnished RTB the gearbox went together a treat thanks to your fantastic drawings and advice. i was concerned about the cone pulley pushing the bearings down so i put it in the oven gas mark 7 about 40 mins and it slid straight on didn't even need a tap with the soft hammer. put it all back together made a gasket for the cover thanks to mr kelloggs. it all works a treat but (theres allways a but) i've got a crack in the sightglass for the oil level and it's weeping so it will have to come off again.

 

[rtbcomp]

Great stuff.

How did you get the sight glass out? I just masked mine off before blasting it.

I warmed my pulley up with a hair drier and pulled it down with a bolt. I'll post details soon.

 

[atconut]

i did'nt get the sightglass out i masket it up aswell but there was a crack in the glass when i got it but i did'nt think i would leak but it does. it's only a very minor weepbut it will bug me. the gasket worked great with a very small amount of red hermatite. i've looked on fleebay and there is a guy selling new sightglasses and i think they are just pushed in with a little sealer. so thats next job. i've still to sort out the belt cover it had been butchered a bit. and i need a new five step pulley for the motor. the one i have only has four steps and it's the wrong size bore for the motor. there is a place near me (fenner) i think they may have one

 

[atconut]

at the bottom of the quill there is a plate held on by three screws. behind that plate are bearings but if you look inside the plate there are two grooves for some kind of seal to hold the grease in but i can't think what they could be like. i have tried (O) rings but the grooves are too small. any ideas

 

[rtbcomp]

There's nothing like that shown in the manual, can't get to mine at the moment but I'll have a look as soon as I can.

 

[Welderpaul]

What did you use to mask off the glass Rodg?

 

[rtbcomp]

Plastic milk bottle tops, 1 each side held in place by a G-cramp. I only bead blasted the side panel so there wasn't much pressure involved.

 

[rtbcomp]

Fitted the side panel and started fitting the motor.



Hit a big snag with the motor. The mounting frame jammed on the head casting and I couldn't get it far enough forwards. The belt wouldn't fit and the motor pulley rubbed on the belt cover.

I had to trim the pressed steel bracket with a hacksaw to move it further forward but it still wouldn't go far enough to fit the belt, so I've ordered an A46 belt to replace the A44, which I'll keep with the original motor.

The wires coming out of the motor are live, neutral, earth and four more for the reversing switch.

The spirit level is acting as a straight edge to align the pulleys and I used a car jack and a length of wood to position the motor.

The cast bracket that the motor fitted to isn't symmetrical (although it looks it) and I had to reverse it so that I could get the motor high enough, even so it's right at the top of its adjustment.

 

[MattF]

Looking good. I'd be half tempted to make up a shroud to pop round that motor assembly though. I personally always think that those vented housing motors just look out of place on machinery.

Just returning to the subject of painting for a moment, did you do any rubbing down between coats, or did you find that the topcoat you used flows quite well, hence not making brushmarks a concern?

 

[rtbcomp]

Good idea about the shroud, it would keep debris out of the motor too.

I didn't bother rubbing down, there's just one coat of gloss and the undercoat dried with a nice dull finish.

I managed to get a bit of a sag on the belt cover, but I wasn't used to this paint, it seemed a lot thicker than stuff I've used before.

 

[rtbcomp]

Reversing switch wired up:



The paper template is for the switch mounting plate:



Mounting plate in place. The screws are 3/16" BSW x 1/2"


Wiring ready for testing:



The relay provides a no-volt release, the start button is in the foreground.


Mains cable on the RHS side of the drill:



I kept the original brass gland, its has a standard M20 x 1.5 thread. The gland on the other side is slightly smaller, but one from an old air comressor pressure switch fitted.


Cables for the interlock:



I intend fitting and interlock so the drill won't run with the belt cover removed. Also an emergency stop button could be incorporated in the circuit here.


General shot:



The reversing switch could do with cleaning up! I may bead blast, polish & lacquer it.

 

[rtbcomp]

This is the circuit I'm using.

 

[Robotstar5]

Nice neat drawing , all I would say from years of reading/drawing electrical drawings is to mark the incoming lines L, N & E makes it easier to read, also show that the motor case is connected to earth.

 

[rtbcomp]

....... Mark the incoming lines l, n & e makes it easier to read, also show that the motor case is connected to earth.

 

[rtbcomp]

This is the actual wiring