Progress 2G Drill

[atconut]

By the way mine has a lamp underneath. the lamp has long gone so i've fitted one of those halogen lights they fit under cupboards

 

[atconut]

What are you planing to hold with that vice!

yerr i know i've overdone it with the vice but it;s a very nice vice would be better on a mill

 

[rtbcomp]

Hi Atconut - just nipped out to the workshop to see if mine's still there! Looks like we both hit on the same colour.

That lamp looks good, mine hasn't got one and it isn't mentioned in the manual, so yours must be a later model.

 

[ronan]

That vice must have come from a shipyard ! the paint looks great

 

[brightspark]

What are you planing to hold with that vice!

whatever is held it wont need bolting down there wont be any chatter using that

 

[atconut]

that is one of the best vices i've ever seen. when i got it i thought it was covered in rust but it was still covered in grease from new and over the years loads of crap and dust had stuck to the grease making it look realy bad. A good clean and it came up like new and to be honest i don't think it had ever been used. I know it should realy be on a milling machine but how much would that cost new nowadays ? It's made by Dorma. There is one on fleebay at the moment not a patch on mine and they want £190

 

[atconut]

whatever is held it wont need bolting down there wont be any chatter using that

just imagine that. the drill grabs and the vice is spinning round on the end of the drill. maybe i should bolt it down

 

[atconut]

Hi Atconut - just nipped out to the workshop to see if mine's still there! Looks like we both hit on the same colour.

That lamp looks good, mine hasn't got one and it isn't mentioned in the manual, so yours must be a later model.

Don't know if mine would be earier or later. probably later with the nylon gear but there is no mention of progress mine just says Elliot 2G

 

[rtbcomp]

This is next problem I encountered:



The above picture shows the slot on the inner sleeve for the key between the shaft and the driving gear of the clutch. The bottom end has broken away, I suspect this was caused by me drifting the lower bearing upwards, the blows were transmitted through the key to the pulley shaft. It would have been better to drift the shaft downwards, but the lower bearing housing was jammed in the casting.

To fix this problem I filed away as much as the metal as I could, which left this:



A slight step. I couldn't file it flat because the ground portion of the sleeve that fits in the lower bearing got in the way. Instead I made a new key with a step in it out of some key steel. The idea of the step is to stop the key slipping downwards by abutting on the inner track of the bearing. For belt and braces it was held in place with Loctite 638.



The next picture shows the state of the original key. It wasn't worth putting back as it was worn and distorted.

 

[Robotstar5]

A nice bit of keymaking

 

[rtbcomp]

It's worth mentioning that the key had to be filed slightly thinner so it would slide in the keyway on the gear, but not too thin that it would be loose in the sleeve.

They should have machined the keyway in the gear slightly oversize

 

[atconut]

doing a fine job there. have you got the male part of the dog off the shaft? the one with three grubscrews. i've managed to get it off with a load of huffing and puffing and plenty of heat. the keyway had sheered off and the dog had turned a quarter of a turn both ways and the grubscrews have dug into the shaft. it doesent look good. i'm still scratching my head. keep up the good work.

 

[rtbcomp]

Interesting that Atconut.

Mine's exactly the same. It's turned more than 90 degrees and seized solid. I found half a key and a grub screw in the oil!

View attachment 26672

I'm not going to attempt to remove it for fear of causing more damage, I'll do the screws up tight and maybe put some half thickness bits of key steel in the keyways, held in place with Loctite.

 

[rtbcomp]

This is the new key in situ ready to fit in the drill


This is the inner sleeve in place, showing the leg of the key abutting against the bearing inner track. You can see the selector groove near the top of the picture.


The large gear has to be put in place first and the sleeve fed through it. Lubricate the lower end of the sleeve where it passes through the oilseal.

Screwing the sleeve through the bearing with the screw from an old scissors jack.

 

[atconut]

That shaft looks like it's been in the freezer

 

[rtbcomp]

You're right - I did put it in the freezer before fitting it, I didn't need a tommy bar to turn the screw, it was quite a slack fit really.

Once it was assembled I played a hair drier on it to get rid of any condensation.

 

[rtbcomp]

Drawing the pulley shaft assembly into place.



This was pulled in so that the top of the upper pulley bearing was flush with the top of the casting. The back gear was placed in position and the pulley shaft assembly pulled down a bit further to give running clearance between the driving dog and the fibre gear.

This clearance should be checked once the back gear is installed properly and adjusted if necessary.

Once the pulley shaft is in the correct position tighten the two grub screws (with the pointed ends) into the bearing spacer.

 

[atconut]

Did you pull the top bearing on the inner shaft at the same time?

 

[rtbcomp]

Yes, at the same time as the pulley shaft. It's quite a slack fit so it could be pulled or drifted in on its own.

Make sure the inner sleeve aligns with the top bearing before applying force.

The inner sleeve shouldn't move because it limits on the bottom bearing, which itself is held in place by a grub screw.

 

[atconut]

i'm glad you're doing this because i've been racking my brains how to do it. my only concern is when i try to get the large pulley onto the main shaft it will move the two bearings lower instead. will those two grub screws be enough to hold it in place because my pulley was realy tight on