My wee head hurts. Jotun it is. I'll get the winter stuff its getting chilly up here. When I eventualy get done I'll get the Lechler for the body repairs. I may be some time
Got my Jotun 87 and wow its so much thinner than the em121 (yes I did stir it) Applied it to my subframe with my earlex spray station thing and it went on fab with no thinning. I unfortunately didn't make up enough to complete it but got most of it.
Happy man
I'm gonna do another coat this time with some thinners 20%. My main concern was getting loads on and I think I did.Should be well protected. I got some 2k aerosol 40% gloss and i'll lash that on top. Probably won't fit back on the car due to being 10% bigger lol.
Keyed it with 320 for the final black coat. Not between Jotun coats but was within the window. So that's 2 of em121 then 3 of 87 then 2 of 2k satin. Might take it rallying.
Don't know if anybodys interested but I had 2 pucks of Jotun sitting for about 6 days. The neat Jotun has a little flex but is very tough. No impression with a hammer. The 20% thinned Jotun tore when I tried to bend it and is a bit crumbly when twisted maybe 20% is too much. I'll try to keep it neat in future tho.
Hi
I fancy a day off from grinding rust and underseal.
I've completed a wheel arch and the seam that runs along the bottom of it and want to slabber some Jotun on it.
I've removed all old coatings and machine/hand sanded it to 80 grit then cleaned it with Bilt Hamber Surfex this is an alkaloid solution as recommended on Jotun's specs.
I have some 50% IPA and will give it another clean just before painting.
I'm gonna do all the edges and seams first with as thick a coat that will stay on then brush on the rest.
Does this sound correct or am I missing anything?
Yes, that will be a good job and better than what usually get covered with Jotan.
Just remember to leave the recommend time between coats, it's very tempting to just slap on another coat.
Don't want to be a pedant, but just to be clear you need to watch min and max overcoat times.
There is a sweet spot with epoxy between applying it and giving it enough time for the initial cure so you can re-coat (with itself or any other suitable paint) and the point where it gets so hard the top coat doesn't adhere as well as it might.
It's not the end of the world if you leave it too long, it just needs a light flat back with fine sandpaper.
In my opinion it's better to leave it too long and flat between coats than rush it.
You can get interesting results if you do rush it.