Morrisman
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- Staffordshire, England
If it came down to it, I’d ride one. It’ll be my last choice, but it’s an option.dare I say ,,,,, electric . [ no clutch or gears ]
If it came down to it, I’d ride one. It’ll be my last choice, but it’s an option.dare I say ,,,,, electric . [ no clutch or gears ]
I would actually quite like an electric bike but only when the real world range is 300 miles plus and charge times down to 20 or 30 mins from a standard socket, so probably neverIf it came down to it, I’d ride one. It’ll be my last choice, but it’s an option.
I’ve actually thought of that, but with the added twist of a ‘palm heel pad’ so I can push down with my wrist as I twist the grip. Basically a twist grip with a flat plate sticking out.could you put a twist grip on the left and use it for the clutch , some of the custom choppers do that so they dont have levers on the super sleek looking bikes
I’ve actually thought of that, but with the added twist of a ‘palm heel pad’ so I can push down with my wrist as I twist the grip. Basically a twist grip with a flat plate sticking out.
I've got one. Basically a "twist and go"IF you could find a useable one how about a CB400A Hondamatic auto . Circa late 70's.
What about this. Plenty of other types that work the same.
The later BSA/Triumph setup consists of two circular plates with three indents in each, there being a hardened steel ball in each indent.I joined NABD a couple of months back, they don’t appear to have a forum as such, just a Facebook page.
Seen them, but they’re rather spendy. I’ve heard that later models of my bike had some sort of ‘auto’ clutch, but not sure exactly what they do.
Not sure what BSA/Triumph set up is like.
The problem then is the clutch doesn’t pull as far, and I find it hard to get neutral unless the lever is pulled right back to the bar. On most bikes that system wouldn’t be a problem as they only use a short area of the lever travel.
but only half the movement , or twice the lever travel ,,, simple idea and done neatly .This gadget is claiming a 50% reduction in lever resistance. Never seen one
I’ve been practicing clutchless gear changing, I can quite often get away with only using the clutch to pull away from 1st gear. Hitting neutral from 2nd on the move can be a little erratic though.Yes, that's the down-side. Hence my comment about keeping it carefully adjusted. For finding neutral you could either get in the habit of snicking it in whilst rolling or turn off the engine when stationary and then start it up again as soon as you have neutral found.
There’s a few variations of the same gadget around, and they probably work quite well on a bike with a normal clutch, but this BM needs full lever travel, or I’d have one on order right now.This gadget is claiming a 50% reduction in lever resistance. Never seen one
I toyed with the idea of removing a couple of springs from the clutch, or a mate even suggested getting some weaker ones made. He has a contact that can do that, from back in his racing days.I used to run heavier springs etc in clutches for curing slipping after tuning, but then I discovered lockup clutches, and went lighter on the springs and compensated with weight on the lockup mechanism's arms, voila instant transformation, light clutch that didnt require you to sit at the lights hoping they went green before your hand gave up its gorilla grip on the clutch. I've ran them on the roads for thousands of km but you do have to keep a eye on them because of all the moving bits, plus mine were homemade in my workshop.
Anothing thing I started to do if you have a fully cable clutch still is a hydraulic conversion on the lifter, and arranging the slave so it has a straight push. I dont know really modern stuff to know if this is still a thing though, but I have retrofitted hydraulic clutches on my current gpz1100b2 & kawasaki turbo both of which have homemade air shifters too. I just adapt the pusher to take zzr or similar hydraulic lifters and use the matching ratio hydraulic clutch lever... The rest of my (not massive projects in bits) fleet were either factory hydraulic (the bimota), or are still cable clutches (sp400 & a xl600r) both of which have fairly light clutch levers but suffer some slipping issues.
I think there's also a use it or loose it element to muscles. I was in a big accident and burnt off nerves/tendons in my dominant hand, and they had to grow back initially as I couldnt move my fingers or feel them, then for a few years after it was fragile and weak as a kitten. I just persisted in torturing myself and now its stronger than the other hand again. Healing is great when your young, except I'm 50+ and was at the time of the accident...
This sounds like the answer @Morrisman ?I used to run heavier springs etc in clutches for curing slipping after tuning, but then I discovered lockup clutches, and went lighter on the springs and compensated with weight on the lockup mechanism's arms, voila instant transformation, light clutch that didnt require you to sit at the lights hoping they went green before your hand gave up its gorilla grip on the clutch. I've ran them on the roads for thousands of km but you do have to keep a eye on them because of all the moving bits, plus mine were homemade in my workshop.
Anothing thing I started to do if you have a fully cable clutch still is a hydraulic conversion on the lifter, and arranging the slave so it has a straight push. I dont know really modern stuff to know if this is still a thing though, but I have retrofitted hydraulic clutches on my current gpz1100b2 & kawasaki turbo both of which have homemade air shifters too. I just adapt the pusher to take zzr or similar hydraulic lifters and use the matching ratio hydraulic clutch lever... The rest of my (not massive projects in bits) fleet were either factory hydraulic (the bimota), or are still cable clutches (sp400 & a xl600r) both of which have fairly light clutch levers but suffer some slipping issues.
I think there's also a use it or loose it element to muscles. I was in a big accident and burnt off nerves/tendons in my dominant hand, and they had to grow back initially as I couldnt move my fingers or feel them, then for a few years after it was fragile and weak as a kitten. I just persisted in torturing myself and now its stronger than the other hand again. Healing is great when your young, except I'm 50+ and was at the time of the accident...