Position signals

  1. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland

    There is no room for all three locking nuts on the outside with the space I have so it would need to be one inside and two out or vice versa.
    I suppose I could make up a plate to hold the prox's so they could be easily removed for adjusting but with them being at the rear of the turret that wouldn't be much of an advantage.
    I certainly don't need such precise switches, my friends TC15 uses similar ones and I remember him crying at the price of them.
     
  2. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Well the other relays need too much power as well to drive direct. The TE Axicom ones are the best at 200mW with the GoodSky (where do the Chinese get their names from :D ) being 450mW.
     
  3. The 7812 is simplicity itself. Input terminal goes to 24V, Common goes to ground and the output provides the 12V for your module and if you like, the IR LED supply.
     
  4. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    It does look like a simple device, will have to look back and see how it would be connected as my head is buzzing with all the different options we have been collectively discussing since last nght.
     
  5. EB55DBDF-E9A8-4780-8FC4-B4684AD6E87D.jpeg
     
    Hood likes this.
  6. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Certainly simple enough from that sketch :)

    I am now thinking along the lines of offset reflective switches or prox switches. I think someone mentioned it earlier on and it has only struck me as possibly being a good idea as it would allow me to only require two switches side by side and thus allow me to utilise all 4. The distance would have to be fairly accurate to avoid false triggering or for that matter non-triggering, but that should be relatively easy.
     
  7. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    It looks like offset switches are going to work fine, whether reflective or prox I am not sure at this stage. Reflective have the advantage that they are shorter so will fit internally, prox have the advantage in that they don't need any additional electronics.

    I have done a quick mock up of the trigger and prox switches, one with them mounted to the rear side of the turret.

    ScreenHunter_2230 Dec. 29 13.44.jpg ScreenHunter_2229 Dec. 29 13.44.jpg

    And one with them mounted to the top face.

    ScreenHunter_2231 Dec. 29 14.48.jpg ScreenHunter_2232 Dec. 29 14.48.jpg


    Top mounted would be easier for access when initially adjusting but would require modification to the cover as they protrude. Rear facing would not require any modifications to the cover but would be awkward for adjusting.
     
  8. awemawson Forum Supporter

    Hood, did you make the tool disk and wirth coupling yourself or is it from something else? Looks about VDi30

    :sheep::sheep::sheep:
     
  9. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    The Hirth was from the original turret that was on the lathe but I made the VDI plate up and yes VDI30
     
  10. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    7,311
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    The offset switches look good, what a clever idea! :scared:
     
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  11. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Ha ha I kept meaning to go back and see who it was that suggested it, don't have to bother now, It certainly is a good idea :thumbup:


    Think I will go with the Prox switches at this stage as they seem to be the easiest to integrate and I already have them.

    Pics of setup so far.

    ScreenHunter_2233 Dec. 29 15.57.jpg ScreenHunter_2234 Dec. 29 16.02.jpg
     
    daleyd likes this.
  12. awemawson Forum Supporter

    And a good idea to keep the locking nuts on the outside :clapping:


    :sheep::sheep::sheep:
     
  13. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
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    Ah but I already had that before you said it ;) , well on the ones I could. As I was considering 3 prox's in a row I had to have one inside or they would have fouled.
     
  14. awemawson Forum Supporter

    excuses :clapping:

    :sheep::sheep::sheep:
     
  15. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Post 125 was definitely before post 140 :D
     
  16. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Only thing I need to check now is I have an 8 x 1.0 tap. I have quite a few metric find but I bet I have an 8 x 0.75, 8 x 0.5 but no 8 x 1.0 :D
     
  17. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Well this thread has taught me quite a bit, especially about reading data sheets to work out whether things will work together. Previously most of that had just been mumbo jumbo.
    I have ordered a few relay boards and also some of the fixed voltage regulators, they are bound to come in handy for projects :D
     
  18. Hood

    Hood If it walks like a duck....

    Messages:
    11,323
    Location:
    Carnoustie, Scotland
    Question regarding the relay boards and the L7812 regulators.

    The CNC control has sinking Outputs so I thought I would try and connect up one of the regulators to the relay board but it is not working.
    I connected the CNC controls +24v and 0V to the regulator, I linked the 0V on to the Gnd on the relay board and the 12v out from the regulator to the relay VCC. I then connected an Output from the control to one of the relay boards inputs.
    When the input is inactive I get 24v on the regulator input and 11.9v on the output but as soon as I activate the output the 24v drops to 14v and if the relay clicks in it drops to 7v, if the relay doesn't click in it stays around about the 14v.
    At first I thought the whole 24v supply was getting pulled down but it can't be for several reasons, firstly the CNC control is still working (it is 24v) and secondly I have two Finder Din rail relays connected for Spindle and Coolant and they can be operated no problem even when I am trying to power the relay boards relay.

    Any ideas?
     
  19. awemawson Forum Supporter

    Hood, post a C o' Cad sketch of your circuit, so that I can better understand what you are doing .:dontknow:

    :sheep::sheep::sheep:
     
    Seadog likes this.
  20. daedalusminos Member

    Messages:
    850
    Location:
    Norwich
    A couple of points:

    Do you have capacitors on the input and output of the 7812? I would suggest 470nF on the input and 100nF on the output
    You need to be wary of power dissipation in the 7812, without a heatsink you'll only be able to dissipate approx 1.5W therefore at 24V in, the most current you can draw from the output is 1.5W/12V = 0.125 or 125mA
     
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