Pollard bench drill refurb

  1. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    As promised. :D

    I posted a thread about the damaged/wonky taper when I got the drill (2016) and was told the only real solution was to re-grind the taper. I didn't have a cylindrical grinder at the time so I knocked the chuck to somewhere near centred with the precision club hammer. :whistle:



    20190706_145902.jpg 20190705_171221.jpg
    That's the taper, deep scores around and along it (I think that's the good side too) and it's not straight. I think the chuck is knackered too, there's similar scoring in the taper and some pitting on the body but the jaws don't look too bad. I'll keep an eye out for a new one anyway.


    Enter the bad idea I mentioned in the stuff you've made thread;
    20190706_145535.jpg
    A horizontal mill looks a bit like a surface grinder doesn't it. :whistle:

    I made up a couple of lightly dished washers to hold a grinding wheel securely, thinking of a setup something like this:

    20190706_150838.jpg

    The whole quill clamped on a vee block set to the taper angle, slowly turning the spindle with the orange motor. It's turning in it's own bearings so should be perfectly centred and seemed sturdier than attaching a die grinder to my toolpost and doing it on the lathe.

    Only problem is it's terrifying. :o I held a chipped carbide insert in the vice to use as a dressing stone and started truing it up, face shield, long sleeves, mother on speed-dial. :laughing:

    The wheel's rated for 3600 RPM and the mill only goes to 1700 so it should be reasonably safe, I was going to finish it tomorrow but it occurred to me as I was typing this, the taper probably isn't particularly hard so doesn't strictly need grinding. :doh:

    I'll check it with a file tomorrow and hopefully do it on the lathe.
     
  2. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    Yep its soft. :thumbup:

    Turns out chucks aren't as expensive as I was dreading so I'll get a new one and potentially build up the spindle with weld and machine a new taper or thread, we'll see what eBay has to offer. :D

    20190707_142039.jpg
    At 23 inches, the spindle is just too long to get between centres on my lathe but will easily fit down the headstock bore, either in a 4 jaw chuck or a 5c collet if I've got the right one.

    20190707_142203.jpg
    SKF bearings in the quill feel perfect so I'm gonna leave them as they are.

    This is interesting, not sure why it's made like that:
    20190707_142247.jpg
    That's the lever shaft on the left and the return spring casing on the right, they fit together tightly to mesh with the rack on the quill, any idea why it's not made in one piece?
     
    eLuSiVeMiTe likes this.
  3. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    20190707_171911.jpg
    It's looking like I might have to paint it. :rolleyes:
     
  4. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,467
    Location:
    Bedfordshire England
    Yup. Get it painted mate.
    While it's in bits would be silly not to
     
  5. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    I'll pop into Halfords and get a tin of high build primer at some point. I think I'll need some filler in some places too, any reason to pick one brand over another or just get the cheapest?
     
  6. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,467
    Location:
    Bedfordshire England
    I used tractol primer and techaloid top coat.
    Been very hard wearing.
    Bought from smith and Allen.

    Didn't bother with filler. It's a machine not a classic car. I Consider casting marks acceptable.
     
    rtbcomp and slim_boy_fat like this.
  7. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,467
    Location:
    Bedfordshire England
    Maker likes this.
  8. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    Excellent, can probably get the colour spot on from there, I was thinking of just getting something that looked roughly similar at Halfords. Presumably a litre will be plenty?

    I wasn't planning on filling the whole thing, there's a couple of holes and really bad spots I want to hide, plus I'd like to sort this somehow.
    20190707_192755.jpg
    20190707_192743.jpg
    Just noticed the cover is missing off the back of the column, don't have a clue where that's gone. :doh:
     
    eLuSiVeMiTe likes this.
  9. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,467
    Location:
    Bedfordshire England
    No idea what it's like out of a rattle can is like but the brush on was excellent.

    Re quantity. 2.5l of each did all this.
    Plus doors.
    20190327_143951.jpg
     
  10. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,467
    Location:
    Bedfordshire England
    Dries in 24 hours but will be a bit soft for a week. Be careful reassembling.
    Can topcoat over primer in 30 mins or so iirc
    Data sheets are on the links above
     
  11. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    I reckon a litre will be fine then. It's a brush I'll be using, half the price of rattle cans and saves masking everything off.

    This is getting expensive, lucky the thing was so cheap to start with. :laughing:
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  12. eLuSiVeMiTe

    eLuSiVeMiTe Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    7,467
    Location:
    Bedfordshire England
    Keep a little pot of thinners out. Little dab on the brush was great for removing runs once it's started to skin.
    Look forward to seeing it in new clothes
     
    Maker likes this.
  13. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    Before and after of the quill feed depth gauge thing:
    20190707_142706.jpg
    15625918003032646253101479125585.jpg
     
    slim_boy_fat and eLuSiVeMiTe like this.
  14. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    20190708_123415.jpg
    The original switch was missing when I got it, rather than find a switch to match the cutout I'll make a new plate with only one hole in it, might even try to recreate the letters from Milliput or similar.
    20190708_122544.jpg
    I should probably replace the capacitor too, it works fine but the wires have perished, I covered one with a bit of aquarium hose when I got it.
     
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  15. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    20190708_124037.jpg
    I was going to ask what this boss on the side of the head is, it's got a grub screw in, I'd assumed a weird mount for a lamp but I was just reading up on Pollard Corona drills and found this;
    52-1-3.jpg
    There should be an oiler in it!
     
  16. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Antipodean Tinkerer

    Messages:
    4,013
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    https://slatersplastikard.com/plastikard/alphabets.php

    Or sculpt your own out of plasticard like I did
     
    • 6EA56F4A-AD4D-486A-922D-51D95F2D2186.jpeg
    spencer 427, slim_boy_fat and Maker like this.
  17. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    I didn't know about those! I've had another change of plan though. :whistle:

    I've ordered a (really quite posh :D) 1/2" chuck to replace the 3/8" Jacobs and to make the most of the extra capacity ideally I need to slow it down...
    20190709_132250.jpg
    I found a 3 phase motor in my stash the exact size of the single phase one it already had fitted. I can plug the 3 phase one into my inverter and get the spindle right down to about 100rpm I think.:clapping: The new motor is a bit more powerful too (3/4 HP vs 1/2) which should help make up for the loss of power slowing it down on a VFD. I'll just blank off the switch plate.

    This has nothing to do with snapping the bearing cover, honest. :ashamed:
    20190709_140318.jpg
     
    Rig Pig likes this.
  18. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    There's nubbins pressed into the top of the casting to align the belt cover, its only fibreglass though and some 200 pound gorilla has been a bit heavy handed with it and chipped the cover where all 4 of them should be.
    20190709_133654.jpg 20190709_133702.jpg
    I was debating how to sort it and think I've decided on this. 20190709_133651.jpg
    An abrasive cutting disc for a Dremel makes a perfect slot for a piece of 0.8mm stainless mig wire to snap into, I'll generously epoxy them in and sand it smooth, should reinforce it enough to stop it happening again.

    Ordered the paint too, the Tekaloid stuff from the link above in RAL 5011 "Steel blue", no idea if it will match but it should look good regardless.
     
    Dieselkid 63 and eLuSiVeMiTe like this.
  19. Dieselkid 63

    Dieselkid 63 Antipodean Tinkerer

    Messages:
    4,013
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Epoxy doesn’t like sticking to masking tape. This is great for inside things - you can tape from inside and slather on from the outside where sanding is much easier. Peel off and you have a completely smooth surface inside.

    I personally dislike fibreglass for covers, always feels delicate. I swapped my Bantam one for an early cast aluminium one, much nicer!
     
  20. Maker

    Maker nEw mEmBeR

    Messages:
    6,550
    Location:
    Don't ask questions
    That's good to know, I usually use baking paper but masking tape would be easier to apply. I'm not a fan of the fibreglass either, much prefer the belt cover on my Herbert drill; about 3/8" thick cast iron. :o
     
Advertisements