I am sure @Munkul mentioned 2mm inserts were avaialble?Aye same inserts, I also have a 26mm blade (was a freebie) and the inserts are interchangeable.
screw that then,They will be but you need a different blade for them. Blade width and insert width need to be matched.
3/4" on the Colchster. But I make my own for odd tools using my shaper. EN3 only though. Had a look at the link.what size tool holders do you use?
We were allowed to make a slight light groove with the lathe on the work piece for the hacksaw parting exercise at the bench vice for the same reasons .3/4" on the Colchster. But I make my own for odd tools using my shaper. EN3 only though. Had a look at the link.
I would pay the price if I was certain I would get the gains. As you not doubt know thare are other forces at play in parting. As an apprentice we were all banned from using them. As the grownups were sick of shrapnel whistling around the workshop, we were relegated into hacksaw slavery. That was fifty odd years ago.
Fortunately in the last 20yrs or so I've become proficient, but not without the odd disaster. It's amazing, perfect and perfect cuts again and again, then boom. Something somewhere has changed unnoticed. Some sage somewhere said maximum 1 -1/2 diameters from chuck. There was also a comment which is very relevant and not always noticed and that's the chuck jaws being bell-mouthed. I have ground old chucks in the past and that is an entire subject on it's own. I tend to use HSS now, but the holder incorporates a ~5 deg rake which I don't like. Looking at ways of changing it to parallel. Very important being able to part off. I can cut, probably 10" in my saw but you need a decent length to clamp in the vise. Which brings me to another logically progression. Lathe bar stock. I soon found that having a lathe required having something to cut large diameter bar or pay through the eyes for a hobbyist supplier. My 6 to 60mm barstock is in 3mtr lengths now. With very short lengths of large diameters I weld something to it first and then clamp that.We were allowed to make a slight light groove with the lathe on the work piece for the hacksaw parting exercise at the bench vice for the same reasons .
Ordered it as a description through a local machinery dealer on the works purchase request system. I didn't even check on price TBH. Looking now, the "kit" wasn't a kit and was not great value after invoicing:I noticed on all the Indian youtube turning videos, they always use a brazed carbide tools. Rather than parting straight in they give it a wide side to side motion so theres no chance of jamming. Cant really do that with wedged inserts as they dont like side forces. I might make up a brazed blade to try on difficult stuff.
@Munkul where did you get the 2mm kit?
Cutting in a parting cut from both sides a bit at a time on each side so only the last bit of the parting is as wide as the parting tool is the way of doing it as in my Harold's lathe work book . So far in the 12 yrs or so that I've had this old antique lather I've only broken two parting blades ........ both in the early weeks of getting it.I noticed on all the Indian youtube turning videos, they always use a brazed carbide tools. Rather than parting straight in they give it a wide side to side motion so theres no chance of jamming. Cant really do that with wedged inserts as they dont like side forces. I might make up a brazed blade to try on difficult stuff.
@Munkul where did you get the 2mm kit?
It's the wee small hours thanks to my dog barking at foxes...The over 60's Disco is closed so...Cutting in a parting cut from both sides a bit at a time on each side so only the last bit of the parting is as wide as the parting tool is the way of doing it as in my Harold's lathe work book . So far in the 12 yrs or so that I've had this old antique lather I've only broken two parting blades ........ both in the early weeks of getting it.
Problem discovered to be ..due to the cross slide having a mole hill where someone used a standard high tensile steel anchor bolt to secure the tool post to the compound slide ....... it rocked around the clock .
Once I'd filed & scraped the molehill off and turned up a decent base nut for the slide anchor stud I move over to a QCTP and triangular parting blades which have an inbuilt clearance on both sides .
I don't think I'd be in hurry to replace a Timken bearing given cost of a new on. On the Colchster they're splash oil lubricated. No real procedure for adjusting. Plenty of guesses out there. Tony's lathes doesn't show that the student feature has a 2 ball bearing clutch release on the power feed shaft. does show a shear pin on the leadscrew. Did inform him a few years back. Both of which I've inadvertently tested. The feed lever tends to jam when it is heavily loaded, just when you need it most. The adjustment is in the end of the shaft, so has to be pulled to adjust. I'll have a look at the Atlas10FIt's almost an exact copy of an Atlas 10F . most of the lathe appears to be made up of American produced parts but there are several parts made in Britain including the GEC 240 volt 1/3 hp motor one of the feet has Sphere made in England cast into it. The bed is an unusual size .... not recognised by the Atlas / Craftsman lathe enthusiasts in the USA . It was purchase in Feb 1946 direct by Harry Long from a government war stock sale for £5 by a navel torpedo development officer who used one in his torpedo development work mainly doing the prototype fine thread cutting multi-start threads for the torpedo firing timing devices .
I was told that everything in the crate was well wrapped in linen soaked greased sheeting & covered in very thick black preservative grease. It's not known why some parts were stamped made in Britain / England or where the actual lathe was assembled . When Harry died it went to his son John & when his son down sized and sold it to me for £300 plus a load of tooling . The taper roller bearing on the headstock are grease fed by turning a grease cup 1.2 a turn each work day not oil pots like the American versions . These taper rollers are Timkin with the numbers stamped on the carriers.. I can see most of the details but aren't willing to fully strip the headstock shaft to get the full details as I don't have a press to put them back at present . Due to the known American parts used inthe build the USA Atlas enthusiasts group thinks the lathe was a special made around 1942
Look it up in Tonys lathes . co .uk He shows one very similar but not exactly the same
The Atlas 10 F has a shear dog on the lead screw in the forward , neutral or reverse gear box . It's so easy to kill the dog if you miss-time the cross feed disengagement ... Guess how I know ? ..£ 60 for a used replacement from the USA . With help from good friends on here and it's 3D drawable , printable & repeatableI don't think I'd be in hurry to replace a Timken bearing given cost of a new on. On the Colchster they're splash oil lubricated. No real procedure for adjusting. Plenty of guesses out there. Tony's lathes doesn't show that the student feature has a 2 ball bearing clutch release on the power feed shaft. does show a shear pin on the leadscrew. Did inform him a few years back. Both of which I've inadvertently tested. The feed lever tends to jam when it is heavily loaded, just when you need it most. The adjustment is in the end of the shaft, so has to be pulled to adjust. I'll have a look at the Atlas10F
Did have a look at the lathe. It's a large version of the ML7 on steroids (change gears,pulleys). Lucks very robust? Shear dog printable? Can't be PLA.? Someone got a metal 3d printer? I've got some designs on a few sites, mainly novelty battery holders etc.The Atlas 10 F has a shear dog on the lead screw in the forward , neutral or reverse gear box . It's so easy to kill the dog if you miss-time the cross feed disengagement ... Guess how I know ? ..£ 60 for a used replacement from the USA . With help from good friends on here and it's 3D drawable , printable & repeatable
"Iscar parting off tool. Excellent condition. Genuine Iscar block and 32mm blade for 3mm inserts. Twelve Iscar 3 mm inserts. 25 mm section," got it for £57.66 |
Is this just the blade or does it come with a holder as well?
and if you use the code ADVFREE you should get free delivery.