Onthespotwelding
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- Thread starter 8ob
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8ob
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- Nescient in the vale
That’s a very clean cut
What settings did you use for it?
Not sure, I am a bit of an up or down a bit person. Will check and get back to you .
Bob
dieselsamurai
Too many projects not enough time!
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Nozzle/tip's go first pretty sure internal electrode on these are reversible they are on mine and torch looks similar so last 4 tips usually, shrouds rarely . You can get tips on ebay and such in big packs but double check the dimensions i have been caught out before
I bought a pilot arc torch and a couple of DINSE male/female connectors, to allow the torch earth to connect to the plasma cutter, as well as the earth cable. The earth cable isn't strictly necessary on a pilot arc torch. The torch was about 10 quid cheaper at the time of purchase, so it's worth shopping around. It uses different consumables, which are easy enough to buy.
Cheers, does the pilot arc make a big difference, is it mainly when cutting through paint or rust, or is it just nicer and easier all round?
Regarding the earth I guess what you made up was a short dinze male to female cable with the pilot earth connected as a branch off it.
It would be neater to fit connector on the front panel, but I wouldn't want to mess up the warranty.
I have the 30A pilot arc variant (no onboard compressor).
I've only used it a couple of times, and frankly my cuts are dismal in comparison.
I'm not getting good clean cuts and it seems to not burn through thicker stuff, but just "eat into" it part way.
I've also eaten tips.
I think... it is better (less bad) dragging the tip, but I've seen it that you're supposed to have the tip just away from the material
(I've always fired the pilot arc, & then gone to cut, not put the torch on the material & then fired).
Anyone got any thoughts on how I'm messing up?
I've only used it a couple of times, and frankly my cuts are dismal in comparison.
I'm not getting good clean cuts and it seems to not burn through thicker stuff, but just "eat into" it part way.
I've also eaten tips.
I think... it is better (less bad) dragging the tip, but I've seen it that you're supposed to have the tip just away from the material
(I've always fired the pilot arc, & then gone to cut, not put the torch on the material & then fired).
Anyone got any thoughts on how I'm messing up?
hotponyshoes
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My biggest gripe with this plasma cutter is that after a cut there is a post-flow of air for a while, presumably to cool the torch.
During this post-flow time you cannot re-start the arc.
This is annoying if you get a false start.
It's really annoying if you are trying to do a lot of short quick cuts like chop lengths of bar up or cut weldmesh etc.
I'd think the pilot-arc torch would solve this issue so would be worth the cost for that alone.
Parkside do their own pilot-arc torch. I think it has a longer lead than the regular one which is also a bonus.
It comes with a dinse Y connector ready fitted for the earth lead.
The earth doesn't carry much current so the neatest solution might be to swap the trigger plug/socket for a suitable 3-way and run the torch earth through that.
Might even be possible to use the shell/casing on the existing connector but you'd want to check the torch earth is the same as the machine casing first!
hotponyshoes
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I have the 30A pilot arc variant (no onboard compressor).
I've only used it a couple of times, and frankly my cuts are dismal in comparison.
I'm not getting good clean cuts and it seems to not burn through thicker stuff, but just "eat into" it part way.
I've also eaten tips.
I think... it is better (less bad) dragging the tip, but I've seen it that you're supposed to have the tip just away from the material
(I've always fired the pilot arc, & then gone to cut, not put the torch on the material & then fired).
Anyone got any thoughts on how I'm messing up?
Check the consumables
Some of the chinese ones are pretty dismal quality. And you normally get a whole pack of bad ones rather than the odd one.
Check all the hole sizes are too spec. Look for Burrs, swarf etc. Check tip to cap clearance.
Then check the air. Dry and clean for a start.
Run a long cut on something while somebody else adjusts the air pressure.
There is normally a sweet spot for air pressure on each machine and it can make a big difference to the cut quality.
gaz1
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if anything that auto pilot start is for starting on the metal with paint on it so not really supposed to be used away from the materialI have the 30A pilot arc variant (no onboard compressor).
I've only used it a couple of times, and frankly my cuts are dismal in comparison.
I'm not getting good clean cuts and it seems to not burn through thicker stuff, but just "eat into" it part way.
I've also eaten tips.
I think... it is better (less bad) dragging the tip, but I've seen it that you're supposed to have the tip just away from the material
(I've always fired the pilot arc, & then gone to cut, not put the torch on the material & then fired).
Anyone got any thoughts on how I'm messing up?
as goes for tips theres a few things first to check
check both tips outside and inside if one fails you get bad cuts the outer one the hole gets bigger the inner one eats itself away its only copper
check your air bad cuts means not enough air also more so when your not cutting through
but that also could be speed of movement as well
So would it be reasonable to say there's no special need for the pilot arc torch unless I'm finding difficult starts on the sort of stuff I'm cutting?
And another question if people don't mind, how is it likely to work on the end of an extension lead? Around 20m of 2.5sq.mm flex.
And another question if people don't mind, how is it likely to work on the end of an extension lead? Around 20m of 2.5sq.mm flex.
hotponyshoes
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No, you don't need the pilot arc torch.
The standard supplied torch works fine.
I don't know if they use the same consumables, if not, might be worth thinking about if you will want/need the pilot arc in the future before stocking up on parts.
The version with the compressor does pull near 16a on full welly so might struggle on a 2.5mm lead. All my 16a extension leads are 4mm so I wouldn't know for sure.
In fact I normally use 6mm/32a leads foe most runs then stick an adaptor on the end
gaz1
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if the machine is slightly faulty it also shows bad cuts
a few back posts
bad copper hole equals bad cuts
other posts
a few back posts
bad copper hole equals bad cuts
Lidl Parkside 30A Plasma UK 13/02/2020
in Italian but subtitles are available :welder: Goodmorning everyone. I'm the guy in the video. it's the first time I've used a plasma cutting machine
www.mig-welding.co.uk
other posts
Lidl Parkside 30A Plasma UK 13/02/2020
Well there are a few here in LIDL DUBLIN (cork street) 40amp PPS-40-B2 model.. I see from those online instruction manuals, both models mention HF arc and HF spark in troubleshooting, so I guess it has HF start.. I think that rules it out for most CNC tables... Anyone tried it.
www.mig-welding.co.uk
10mm sheet with a Cut50
There's been questions on here about whether a Chinese Cut50 can do 10mm and I can confirm that it can, but not with ease! I reckon that at an indicated 49Amps we were right on the limit of what the machine can do - it would often stop penetrating and turn into a gouger. The problem with that...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
A quick play with the Cut40 on 8mm plate
I must admit I thought I was going to be on a looser here. I am on a 13 Amp plug/socket as I normally just cut up to 3mm so have the current quite low on the plasma. I had a guess at a current and speed and went for 32 Amps at 300mm per min speed. The plasma would not cut through 8 mm but...
www.mig-welding.co.uk
