You see a lot of cars with peeling clear coat. Is one of the reasons for that putting on the cc outside the overcoat window?
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You see a lot of cars with peeling clear coat. Is one of the reasons for that putting on the cc outside the overcoat window?
Kram
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The run was in the clear, it has caused a black line in the base coat, see the photo. I wouldnt be sanding the basecoat, but removing the run may disturb it.
It will be keyed for clear coat, the question is if I can or should do a spot repair of basecoat. I dont want to waste basecoat doing the while panel again.
It will be keyed for clear coat, the question is if I can or should do a spot repair of basecoat. I dont want to waste basecoat doing the while panel again.
Older cars its mostly UV damage or where birds mess has been left.
Kram
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How does it compare to brake cleaner? Less strong?
I used it today for cleaning 3d printer lead screws as I dont have IPA, although I could have used the meths..
Kram
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Sods law, I have rubbed into the basecoat in a couple edges.
How should I set the spraygun for base coat touchups? I guess overspray can be wiped off, but to avoid an edge?
Difficult, this sanding. Theres now quite a few edges where nust as I get rid of the shiny spots, the small white dot of primer appears. Perhaps I should just base coat the whole panel?
How should I set the spraygun for base coat touchups? I guess overspray can be wiped off, but to avoid an edge?
Difficult, this sanding. Theres now quite a few edges where nust as I get rid of the shiny spots, the small white dot of primer appears. Perhaps I should just base coat the whole panel?
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Kram
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Had it all keyed and ready.
The two deeper stone chips, I gave them a brush of thick base coat and sanded back to level, repeated, then panel wioe amd they were near invisible, but would get a light base spray over the top.
Gave each rub through a light coat of base, followed by a normal coat. It didnt cover the white primer, so another.
This is when I notice the original basecoat is "frying up" at the edges of the clear. Bollock's!
Inwas careful with a light coat and letting it flash off... What to do? Flat and key those areas and try again tomorrow?
Strip it all back to primer?
The two deeper stone chips, I gave them a brush of thick base coat and sanded back to level, repeated, then panel wioe amd they were near invisible, but would get a light base spray over the top.
Gave each rub through a light coat of base, followed by a normal coat. It didnt cover the white primer, so another.
This is when I notice the original basecoat is "frying up" at the edges of the clear. Bollock's!
Inwas careful with a light coat and letting it flash off... What to do? Flat and key those areas and try again tomorrow?
Strip it all back to primer?
qwakers
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you're going too fast. that will happen if the base and lacquer hasn't cured fully before flatting(and you go through and try to repair it). leave it a WEEK between final laquer coat and flatting and polishing.... or put it in a paint oven. be most of us don't have one of those.
and if you're flatting through the lacquer when getting rid of the peel, you didn't put enough lacquer on. 4+ coats if you are new to it as your lacquer will be rougher. i can do 2 coats and flat without penetrating.
and if you're flatting through the lacquer when getting rid of the peel, you didn't put enough lacquer on. 4+ coats if you are new to it as your lacquer will be rougher. i can do 2 coats and flat without penetrating.
Kram
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This is a fast cure clear that can be polished after 3 hours, and its spent a week in a hot tent, it hit 47c yesterday, so that is not an issue.
This specific clearcoat states one closed coat followed by a full wet coat. The shop tells me that trying to do more could cause issues with hardening too fast. Possibly I could do the first two coats, wait 3 hours for full cure and then repeat while its still fresh enough to not need keying. However if I get it right in the first place, it wont be needed...
How to fix the reaction...?
Yes, I knew that and said on the previously, hence why I am not simply trying to flat it, but have keyed it, tried to touch up a few basecoat issues and ran into this problem.
This specific clearcoat states one closed coat followed by a full wet coat. The shop tells me that trying to do more could cause issues with hardening too fast. Possibly I could do the first two coats, wait 3 hours for full cure and then repeat while its still fresh enough to not need keying. However if I get it right in the first place, it wont be needed...
How to fix the reaction...?
Kram
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It is fully cured. It is reacting with the original basecoat under the clear, where the base is exposed. No amount of waiting will change that.
Spot priming will be a pain, as will taking the whole panel back to primer
Might try the fast cure clear to seal it.
Spot priming will be a pain, as will taking the whole panel back to primer
Might try the fast cure clear to seal it.
If you have the all the extractor fan etc even better....I tried to spray (2K) a panel without the extractor gear and it soon misted up
I also needed to painted the inside the B pillar,spraying was not viable. I then used a brush,it came out better than the sprayed panelWay back in the days of my YTS,I had a brief work experience at a body shop and most of the time it was wet sanding,especially primer to smooth out the orange peel effect
marlinspike
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I had a metallic grey car with terrible laquer peel. It was worst on the roof and bonnet so definitely UV related.
