I was going to say give it a good clean and replace the other seals while you are at it, but you seem to have it all in hand.
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MattF
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Good choice. I always tend to add a little brass slug under grubscrews, even if they're just bearing down on a smooth shaft. Stops the screw from gouging threads, as in your case, or the shaft if the screw works slightly loose.
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All back together and full of oil. Ran it up to full speed and it all seems fine, it gets a bit loud at higher speeds but everyone knows Colchesters are noisy.
Unfortunately, it does appear to still be leaking.
It's weeping out there, I was a bit suspicious when I took it apart as there's no gasket between the surfaces. Need to drain the oil and take everything back off to put one in, and I don't have any gasket material here anyway.
Unfortunately, it does appear to still be leaking.
It's weeping out there, I was a bit suspicious when I took it apart as there's no gasket between the surfaces. Need to drain the oil and take everything back off to put one in, and I don't have any gasket material here anyway.
And mine .lol
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I'm always sceptical of liquid gasket type stuff, I trust a proper paper gasket more. I'll pop over to my dads and get some paper, and find something to drain this oil into so I don't waste any more.
I looked up the serial numbers too, A1411 I think means it was made in 1958, so it's 62 years old. I hope I look that good in 40 years.
I looked up the serial numbers too, A1411 I think means it was made in 1958, so it's 62 years old. I hope I look that good in 40 years.
I made up a paper gasket for my Colchester Triumph recently. Seen it done plenty of times but never tried it myself.
It was really easy to do and very satisfying. Hasn't leaked at all since from the top cover.
Sadly the rear bearing oil seal is weeping now. Doesn't matter at all just makes a mess in my messy drip tray
I replaced the sight glass when I started using the lathe so I can tell the oil level easily. Not going down much at all. It has the advantage of keeping the rear change gears very nicely lubed.
It was really easy to do and very satisfying. Hasn't leaked at all since from the top cover.
Sadly the rear bearing oil seal is weeping now. Doesn't matter at all just makes a mess in my messy drip tray
I replaced the sight glass when I started using the lathe so I can tell the oil level easily. Not going down much at all. It has the advantage of keeping the rear change gears very nicely lubed.
MattF
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citizen kane
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Always found the Chipmaster to be much quieter than the geared head Colchester's, wonder where the noise is coming from.
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No idea, hopefully not the spindle bearings.
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One shiny new gasket, only took six months. 
I've been putting it off because it's such a pain in the ass to get to with some many belts and pulleys to shimmy off. At least this time I didn't have to check the diagram in the manual every five minutes.
I've been putting it off because it's such a pain in the ass to get to with some many belts and pulleys to shimmy off. At least this time I didn't have to check the diagram in the manual every five minutes.
I think the noise is actually the toothed belt which drives the spindle in the high speed range, throwing the spindle with the belts off is almost dead silent.
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I've changed my mind about the noise again. 
If you run it in high speed, but with the feed/thread selector in thread mode, the gearbox doesn't turn so all the noise comes from the headstock, which isn't much noise at all, that's what I'd done without realising it yesterday. Today I put it into feed mode as you would to actually use it and if you crank the speed up there's quite a loud knocking which seems to be from the apron. Poking around a bit more, I noticed the feed shaft is a bit wobbly, putting an indicator on it I can rattle it about 20 thou, you can actually see a bit of a gap in the bushing in the gearbox body.
It looks like quite a big job to get in there and press it out, but quite a simple part to make, it might even be standard enough that I can just order a flanged oilite bush and press it straight in. Part 26, in the bottom right hand side.
If you run it in high speed, but with the feed/thread selector in thread mode, the gearbox doesn't turn so all the noise comes from the headstock, which isn't much noise at all, that's what I'd done without realising it yesterday. Today I put it into feed mode as you would to actually use it and if you crank the speed up there's quite a loud knocking which seems to be from the apron. Poking around a bit more, I noticed the feed shaft is a bit wobbly, putting an indicator on it I can rattle it about 20 thou, you can actually see a bit of a gap in the bushing in the gearbox body.It looks like quite a big job to get in there and press it out, but quite a simple part to make, it might even be standard enough that I can just order a flanged oilite bush and press it straight in. Part 26, in the bottom right hand side.
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It being bent would explain it knocking in the apron. It looks like there's just one grub screw to loosen and the shaft will pull right out without having to pull anything apart, I can check it against a straight edge and bonk it true. Having said that, it would be good to dismantle and clean the apron actually, the whole thing's filthy inside. I'll have a look tomorrow.
