Still working fine on AC. Honda RS Two Stoke Swingarm Repair 7020 Alloy. Constructors manual recommends 5356. First photo shows the damage previously repaired. Not sure what happened but bike has taken a proper knock at some point. Done with a MIG. Second photo I ground the mig weld off and dye penetrant tested. Front weld was fine and found how far the cracks went so got the carbide burr out and got to work. Last photo is end result in the back.
Nice fun little job this was. Not too dirty, off the bike which is nice, high quality material helps.
Another one finished today. Probably won't bother making anymore after this strugging to sell them. Mixture of the HT200 and the S3
Finished the new shiny part on this frame late last night, it's a weed collector that my angling club had me knock up out of some scrap some years ago. Needed some support for the mesh that goes on it. The whole thing mounts on a fibreglass boat with a 5hp motor. Went to survey/price up a job this morning then cracked on finishing this toolbox and giving it a polish with various grades of scotchbrite.
@Xup sorry this is the thread with all the bits done with the Handytig the other thread was aimed more at the Micorstick
I've PM'd you Brad, but I'll ask here as well, On the Lorch torch socket 5 pin plug, I need to know which are pin 4 and pin 5 to bridge them in the front panel socket to stop the E05 error code. Using a pedal with no torch switch connected to the front panel gives me E05 code and shuts off welding.
You can disable that I think in the menu. What you do is switch the unit off, holds down buttons 1 & 2, then seitch the machine back on. It's in the manual I believe. At work at the minute so don't have the manual to hand.
Cheers Brad, Sorted it,....took the supplied Lorch torch plug to bits, for others it might be of help so.....from the locating tab on the socket on the front panel, it goes clockwise 1 to 5, 4-5 are the last 2 before the location tab. I jumped/bridged 4/5 on the front panel socket problem gone... been welding Alu for the first time ever, well pleased. weld puddle is so much easier to see, but it also runs away from you very quick.
Unless it's specified in the manual I would not be bridging any pins together in the machine or torch. It's a new machine and if you balls it up you could void your warranty.
Its in the manual Richard, error E05, " torch monitor in gas cooled operation/ incorrect torch connected(water cooled)/Use gas cooled torch(recognised by bridging between the contacts 4 and 5 on the torch plug) " So as I see it if I wanted to go water cooled I'd have to do the same by bridging the pins, if using a foot pedal as there will be nothing connected to the front panel torch socket. Pins 4 and 5 are connected together in the supplied Lorch torch plug.
Its for the intelligent torch control iirc as found on the powermaster torches. Ill tell you the setting later to turn it off. Tbh I just leave my other torch with a switch on it plugged in.
A nice more pretty fix would be to jump two pins in a Tuchel plug and just plug that in. Maybe epoxy the end closed if you can be bothered.
I must admit I don't like that. Bad area of design to have to faff about like that if you want to change the torch and run a pedal. My machine the torch and pedal use the same plug so if I want a switch I plug the torch in if I want pedal I plug the pedal in.
You can access the back ground menu and make it so you don't need to Bridge the pins 4&5. In days past, before background menus and smart machines etc we set the machines to think they were watercooled in order to look for the return flow and protect the torch. With gas cooled machines, The machine knew it was gas-cooled because pins 4&5 were always bridged on the 5 pin amphonel on our torches as a standard However the default setting (to maintain compatibility with all of our older torches on newer machines and new torches on older machines) we kept the default as it was but it can easily be changed