New Tig.. Lorch HT200

And what they look like when completed with castors.

 

Fair bit of maxing the handytig out lately.
Could do with 50 more amps!

 

So a client of my dad's had their new quad bike stolen a few weeks after it being delivered. They broke in through the roof, then forced their way out from the inside.

So this is what we've installed. Just need to knock up a gate/door now.

 

Did you TIG'ed that frame too or did you switch to the MMA side of the force?



SARTo

 

Nope migged the frame, still a Lorch though So chucked it in here save another thread.

 

Finished the frame due to the size of the entrance to this shed, everything was made in sections, then welded onsite.

That's my old man standing next to it to give you an idea of size.

 

You need a Tetrix 230

 

Now looking into 3 phase for the workshop rather than running off a generator, so a 300 amp machine could then be used. Will have to wait though. Think the three phase is gonna cost the best part of £3-4k

 

@matt1978 have these handytigs got a spark gap and if so does it need setting at all? I'm getting quite poor HF starts and have to keep touching the tungsten to the work before pressing the pedal to get a spark to jump.
Seems to be getting worse. I'm guessing it is a spark gap as I can hear the machine buzz.
Will quickly try a different torch to rule that out.

Getting quite Weak HF when you arc to your finger to.

 

Hi Brad,

No they don't have a spark gap so there is nothing that can be adjusted locally.

Try a diff torch and let me know, sounds like it's losing HF somewhere

 

Possibly leaking somewhere mate.
Just out of curiosity it didn't start doing this after you give that poor speedway a "dry" run did it

 

It's the torch. Probably needs a new power lead

 

Ck is working fine.
Now I need to fit some sort of safety where the cooler has to be on

 

Well that was an expensive cock up. Typed SW320 cable in google and weldequip popped up.

 

That's easy enough. Bring a socket out on a short lead of the back of the cooler and plug your welder into the cooler. Run it through the on/off switch on the cooler and plug your cooler in the wall. This way the welder can only be turned on if there is power to the cooler and the cooler is running.

 

You will need to uprate the cable on the cooler mind as it's only 1.5mm2. If your powering up the welder through it you'll need 2.5mm2 ideally.

 

Post it back to me Brad, if it's just cooked one end I can shorten the power cord, clean up the copper cable and re-crimp a new nipple on the end bud.

 

I'm gonna quickly try a different dinse but I'm pretty sure it's the torchz

 

A different dinse has improved things a little but I'm still having some issues. I haven't got any HFT tungsten at the minute I'm just using 2% Lanth, and after couple of arc starts (DC) I then start having the issues on uncontaminated tungsten.

Got to be the torch.

 

Drill a small pilot hole and get a taper cutter Brad, the sort we all used to use before the stepped cutters we have today, lather it in cutting compound and drill slowly.