- Thread starter Exuptoy
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Exuptoy
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Today I got 10 hours in.
Started by filling in the piece at the end of the sill into the rear arch as the repair panel wasn’t big enough to cover the area. It was ok but it’s just a shape that needed to be replicated.
I had to chop out a small crossmember so replaced it with 6mm 2” angle as I need belt anchors for the Holdsworth camper bed.
Next up a “small hole above the rear bump stop. Turned into a mammoth hole!
Next up was the front arch/sill.
Had to gauge it and add one to t’other. It’s all prepped to fit once my inner arch repair arrives. It was rotten. Had to slit the two profiles too as they weren’t the same.
Started by filling in the piece at the end of the sill into the rear arch as the repair panel wasn’t big enough to cover the area. It was ok but it’s just a shape that needed to be replicated.
I had to chop out a small crossmember so replaced it with 6mm 2” angle as I need belt anchors for the Holdsworth camper bed.
Next up a “small hole above the rear bump stop. Turned into a mammoth hole!
Next up was the front arch/sill.
Had to gauge it and add one to t’other. It’s all prepped to fit once my inner arch repair arrives. It was rotten. Had to slit the two profiles too as they weren’t the same.
Exuptoy
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Then I chopped the b pillar lower out and what was behind was dire. It was a real chew and on reflection I probably would have been better removing more metal and taking it back further.
Still needs finishing and cleaning up before paint then the b pillar repair section can be fitted once it arrives.
This tested my patience and abilities!
Still needs finishing and cleaning up before paint then the b pillar repair section can be fitted once it arrives.
This tested my patience and abilities!
Exuptoy
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Decided to weld the outside after doing the inside for no other reason as it looks like I’ve made an effort.
Then my lower b pillar repair section arrived so I painted the back of it and fitted that.
Then the end of the door runner wound me up so I cut that out and filled it in.
I went onto the front arch but I’ve run out of gas again so hopefully I’ll get some in the morning and get it sorted.
This area hasn’t been my best work but it’s solid and it’ll pass a mot. Is what it is.
Then my lower b pillar repair section arrived so I painted the back of it and fitted that.
Then the end of the door runner wound me up so I cut that out and filled it in.
I went onto the front arch but I’ve run out of gas again so hopefully I’ll get some in the morning and get it sorted.
This area hasn’t been my best work but it’s solid and it’ll pass a mot. Is what it is.
Last edited:
Exuptoy
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So, 10 hours today saw me repair the floor alongside the NS step with started off about 30mm square and ended up about 150mm!
I boxed in the arch after extending the piece I cut too short at the top (doh!
) .
I folded over the top sill and bottom of the step to retain the sill before welding and had to get creative here and there where the sill landed at the B pillar.
This part caused me more hassle than it should have but it’s now done and allowed me to close out the step.
I boxed in the arch after extending the piece I cut too short at the top (doh!
) .I folded over the top sill and bottom of the step to retain the sill before welding and had to get creative here and there where the sill landed at the B pillar.
This part caused me more hassle than it should have but it’s now done and allowed me to close out the step.
Exuptoy
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Cheers guys.
Another day on if today, 8 hours and now ready for the MOT.
2 patches turned into two patches, a slider runner extension and a C pillar repair.
Excuse me giving my lad the bird
Then got the bumper mounted and made a couple of bumper supports.
Another day on if today, 8 hours and now ready for the MOT.
2 patches turned into two patches, a slider runner extension and a C pillar repair.
Excuse me giving my lad the bird
Then got the bumper mounted and made a couple of bumper supports.
Exuptoy
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You may remember back at the beginning of this thread the NS rear arch was a repair section that had been stuck with decorators caulk and riveted to the quarter panel then painted with household paint which was reacting with everything. So yesterday evening I hit the panel with the rotary sanding pads and ripped everything off and after welding up the remaining rivet holes I stuck a little filler on there to try to level it off. I now wish I’d just bought a full arch and done a proper repair, but we’re now where we are.
Before and after and back in primer. Needs more work but it’s better.
Before and after and back in primer. Needs more work but it’s better.
Cripes, how did I miss this thread. Just sat and read the lot whilst consuming a big mug of coffee and an entire packet of Jaffa cakes.
Excellent job considering what you started with. It’s always the same, looks like a few bits and ends up……well, consuming a load of time.
Great stuff
Excellent job considering what you started with. It’s always the same, looks like a few bits and ends up……well, consuming a load of time.
Great stuff
octo0072000
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have you checked front crossmember another rot point on them
will those tyres clear on full lock? think he may regret those tyres after a few weeks on the road had same pattern on a landy they drum at speed all the best keep up the good work
will those tyres clear on full lock? think he may regret those tyres after a few weeks on the road had same pattern on a landy they drum at speed all the best keep up the good work
QuattroBro
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Get that Waxoyl/Linseed oil in those cavities before it goes out in any rain. Good luck with the MOT!
Exuptoy
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Cheers chaps, the tyres are his only stipulation everything else was flexible but he wanted the look. He only drives about 8 miles to work and he has a MK6 golf as his daily so he says he can put up with the noise.
It has a fail sheet from when he got it and the front crossmember wasn’t a fail then so fingers crossed it’ll be ok.
Regarding the cavities I’ve purchased Dynax S50 from Bilthamber. Had good experience on his old Seat after the sills were done.
He swept the inside out today and coated it in Gravitex and stone chipped the sill line too.
It has a fail sheet from when he got it and the front crossmember wasn’t a fail then so fingers crossed it’ll be ok.
Regarding the cavities I’ve purchased Dynax S50 from Bilthamber. Had good experience on his old Seat after the sills were done.
He swept the inside out today and coated it in Gravitex and stone chipped the sill line too.
stichill99
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Great work! I have loved following your metalwork!
Exuptoy
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Cheers fella. Some of my welding can at times be a bit embarrassing but it’s generally ok to good. As the job has gone on my Portamig was starting to struggle and it was obvious, then I got P’d off and swapped my torch and it was back to normal. 
Anyway, we’re nearly there. The Volvo P1800 is getting closer. I’m getting a little excited now.
Anyway, we’re nearly there. The Volvo P1800 is getting closer. I’m getting a little excited now.
Exuptoy
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He’s just texted me a couple of pics, the slider was from an early one and didn’t have the securing nubs which stop the door from folding in a side impact (I think?) so he had the ones off the old (newer door) along with the floating retainers inside the door which he had to fish up inside the frame, but he managed it and says they’ve also assisted in closing the door tighter in its frame. (Double sided tape employed to get the position correct).
