My Harrison M400

[Brad93]

Try Indicate off the outside of a good sleeve. A stack of three in the tailstock is introducing plenty of room for errors.

if you need to sort the wear down the line you can either hard chrome the barrel Or bore the tailstock and fit a bronze liner, I think that’s an option.

 

[daedalusminos]

The picture looks like you are indicating off the outside of a revolving centre which is held in two reducing sleeves in the tailstock.

Such a stack up of components and using a non-reference surface for your indicator might give some misleading results.

Also make sure the indicator setup is rigid and not changing due to gravity as you revolve the chuck.

 

[Shox Dr]

A co-axial Indicator is handy for setting the t/stock

 

[Munkul]

Thanks chaps for the advice. I've indicated off the barrel, off a single good taper, and off that parallel faced centre... So not just going off one setup.
I'm not as green as I'm cabbage looking

 

[pressbrake1]

I just turn a piece of material to the same diameter as the tailstock barrel and bring them together then clock
Takes 30 seconds to bring in dead bang assuming good ways

 

[minimutly]

Just walking round a lathe can distort the bed. Moving from head to tail stock I can get an engineers level to deffect. Thats on a 6" reinforced concrete floor.
Just bear that in mind if you stack a load of gear behind it after setting it up.

Really? Wow. Now this does surprise me!

 

[Munkul]

I cleaned up the Samchully chuck I got from Robin @Hood a while back... Its in great nick and fitted it.

 

[Munkul]

I also liked the aluminium box for the 3jaw so made one myself for the 4 jaw!

 

[Hood]

I also liked the aluminium box for the 3jaw so made one myself for the 4 jaw!

View attachment 280013 View attachment 280014 View attachment 280015 View attachment 280016

You cheated, you used clean Alu and you tig'd instead of Mig

 

[Hood]

Also see I sold it to you under false pretences, it is an Auto Strong and not a Samchully
Good chucks though, a friend has a few of their power chucks on his CNC's and he rates them above some of the Japanese ones.

Di Chun Iron Work co., Ltd

Di Chun Iron Works is a chuck manufacturer, founded in 1974. Over the past 50 years, Di Chun has insisted on quality and specialized in the production of a full range of chuck products. Contact us if you are interested in our products

www.auto-strong.com

 

[Munkul]

I didn't know if auto strong was a model range of samchully or not it feels nice quality anyway, has a good speed rating and is a million times better than the worn out Pratt 3jaw

 

[Munkul]

Good to see the makers advertise real world TIR I got a thou runout when I put a machined collar in it to check. As good as it gets on a 3 jaw I think.

 

[Hood]

Yes, very nice quality chuck and it hasn't done much work at all as it was new when I got it and only had it on the CNC for a short while until I picked up the power chuck /cylinder and thus relegated the Auto Strong to the Chiron for occasional use. Nice thing is making soft jaws for it is very easy as it is tenon style, so anyone with a mill could easily make them.

 

[Munkul]

Got the shim for the tailstock and some time tonight to fit it all thought I'd have a look at the scraping job on the tailstock base. Looks good to my untrained eyes and hands. It's pretty well hydraulicked to the ways with oil too, so it fits well enough!


One pair of shims cut and deburred.



Now clocking the up and down on the tailstock a thou or so high, which is exactly where I want to be with it

I also ordered my DRO kit today!

 

[Munkul]

Wow... so 2 months later, I got the DRO kit Part of the wait was because I asked for custom length scales. I should have made do, and in retrospect i could have got away with shorter on-the-shelf scales, but it wasn't much more cost, so... never mind.
I have some turning jobs this week so put a few hours in yesterday to fit it. The scales are nice... I'm glad I went with the Newall setup. The brackets... very "universal" but that's what you get with any kit I suppose.
The bracket for the X axis microsyn encoder wasn't ideal for my lathe.... I wen't with a setup similar to @Hood with the encoder mounted on the saddle... but the bracket sticks out into the tailstock travel. I'll have to make a new bracket altogether.
The Z axis spherosyn encoder and scale was easy enough to fit though... one single cut to trim a bracket.
The guards were the worst bit of it! The X axis cover was too narrow, so i folded a bit of ally and trimmed a radius around the compound swivel... got the radius wrong Ah well, only took 10 mins









Still to mount the display bracket, and to remake the X axis guard. I'll re mount the encoder first though, and keep it tucked in a bit better... might even manage to use the original guard TBH.

Reading the manual for the DRO now, it's a nice bit of kit. Again, I'm glad I went with it.

 

[Hood]

Y axis? You milling types

 

[Munkul]

Y axis? You milling types

Why is it not Y axis? I see my mistake... Z axis!

 

[Munkul]

I took the afternoon off yesterday to finish this off... it was bugging me.

firstly i remade a bracket to hold the X axis encoder... not quite as neat as Hood's, because i used the holes from the previous bracket, so the encoder sits on top of the button heads. So it raises the encoder up slightly. Oh well.
I put a joggle in the first bracket I made, to see if it would fit... no dice. Started folding another, and totally screwed up the joggle from the start. Lost patience and made a single fold with a simple cutout, mounted it on washers with some rubber packing to stop swarf dropping through. I'll probably revisit this at some point again.

3 useless guards for the scrap


New (hidden) mounting and guard, much better... only lose around 10mm of tailstock travel now.


The DRO mounted nicely on top of the headstock, and I tidied up the cabling.




I then used it for an actual job - skimming out some damaged bearing blocks. I'm loving my setup now... quick change to 4 jaw, clock in to the face I need, measure, type into DRO, take cut. So much easier!



I have 3 DTI stands now... one "good" one that has a feeble magbase, one Mitutoyo with a damaged mag lever, and one "bad" china special which has the universal joint design... and it's the only one that can clamp the Tesa 8thou lever indicator, which is unfortunate cos the fine-adjust screw is too cheap to work properly. Bah.

I can see a Noga or similarly decent joint-style stand being bought soon... the problem being, trying to find one! Or I could get a dovetail mount for one of the others... for my needs it would be fine...

 

[bletchmonster]

Are the Newall dro's absolute, do they always know where they are?
Just that you "typed the required dimension into the Dro". No way I could do that without taking a cut first to get referenced in.
I've a lot to learn when it comes to getting the best out of my Dro.

 

[Brad93]

Bet you was chasing that tenths indicator clocking that in.