So I am even more gutted to have missed out on this then. Lol
I wonder if @Kram is around to hunt a bargain for me.
Are the arbours interchangeable as I need R8.
I have this but not sure if they do hard tips for it?
- Thread starter ukracer
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I wonder if @Kram is around to hunt a bargain for me.
Are the arbours interchangeable as I need R8.
I have this but not sure if they do hard tips for it?
Brad93
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Smoxh the facemill was not Korloy sorry.
I did buy a smoxh indexable end mill and the quality is fantastic.
www.cutwel.co.uk
I did buy a smoxh indexable end mill and the quality is fantastic.
Rich Mill RM4 90 Degree Milling Bodies | Cutwel - Milling Tool
Shop online today for Rich Mill RM4 90 Degree Indexable Milling Bodies. Exceptionally low cutting resistance & no step-over marks. UK next day delivery!
www.cutwel.co.uk
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Yes, it is a Smoxh 63m facemill I have and quality is spot on, inserts are, as mentioned, the Korloy LNMX and they are a tough insert and even better have 4 edges unlike APMT etc, they are also about 3 times as thick as APMT so stand a bit of punishment.
Brad93
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Aye.
I just looked up the deal. Cutwel done a deal where you bought 10 inserts and they gave you the holder for free.
Bear in mind the inserts are about £10 a pop and you have to buy a box, so that's £120 with the vat. The holder is between £50-120 depending on the diameter.
The arbour was about £30 odd. So £160 should get you an LNMX holder and good quality inserts.
Kram
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Facemills are great. Not one of my finds but there are chinese ones cheap enough to try.
Only comment is the insert type makes a massive difference. You need a *very* rigid machine to take an adequate depth cut with the blunter, more durable inserts. They dont work on my lathe unless I give them a very light sharpen.
For your job, if it is hardened rather tjan just tough steel, Id get a chinese facemill and a few CBN. You dont need all flutes to have an insert.
Cbn doesnt like interupted cuts but I think they would last ok for what your doing.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292068964771
Only comment is the insert type makes a massive difference. You need a *very* rigid machine to take an adequate depth cut with the blunter, more durable inserts. They dont work on my lathe unless I give them a very light sharpen.
For your job, if it is hardened rather tjan just tough steel, Id get a chinese facemill and a few CBN. You dont need all flutes to have an insert.
Cbn doesnt like interupted cuts but I think they would last ok for what your doing.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/292068964771
It does but it's slow.
Dropbox
www.dropbox.com
Ok will mine take a hard insert.
At the moment it's not cutting fast as I reckon it would take me 20 hours. Lol
Mmm I probably am being too gentle.Do you know what code yours are, I can have a look for some.
Id say your nowhere near your mills limits in the video. 400rpm at a guess? Up to 1000-2000 rpm, wind the handles as fast as you can and try to dodge the hot chips
I have a tacho so I will try and check it in morning.
I also have power feed..once bitten twice shy....lol
I have a suspicion they are tpan 1603 but they all came from @Matt-H a while back so I am not sure.
Ignore the ISO 30 . It's an R8 on a bridgeport. Is that not powerfull enough for a 90 degree insert etc?
Hood
I am obsessed.
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Look at the manufacturers feed/speed specs for the inserts you have/buy. I don't think I would be too high.
Problem with a Bridgeport style mill is they don't like interrupted cuts due to the poor drive system (spline) and you will get a lot of rattle.
TP*N inserts are not the strongest out there and with no chip breaker they don't perform that great anyway.
Lots of modern milling inserts have a nice geometry that gives a much easier cut so less power required and allows the a much stronger insert.
Problem with a Bridgeport style mill is they don't like interrupted cuts due to the poor drive system (spline) and you will get a lot of rattle.
TP*N inserts are not the strongest out there and with no chip breaker they don't perform that great anyway.
Lots of modern milling inserts have a nice geometry that gives a much easier cut so less power required and allows the a much stronger insert.
Agroshield
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Just in case he wants to pursue this avenue, a search on 'Bridgeport spline rattle' or similar will show up ways that people have mitigated this problem. In short, you bias the splines into the drive pulley so they cannot bounce (or bounce less). This can be with a spring or by clamping the splined part to the pulley. Some of the options mean the quill is temporarily inoperable, but you should not be face milling with the quill poking out anyway.
Good clamping of the part also helps: one clamp at either end of a long piece will not do: the middle will vibrate and deflect. Along the length of the part, you do not need so much to clamp it down to the table as put good solid stop blocks either side of it to resist the sideways thrust.
Ok...spindle rattle I can worry about later. But thanks for ideas.
As for getting this done. Will the Bridgeport handle this bundle for 170 or am I better just buying some TP*N and Getting them here for Monday.
I can't do it Sat or Sun anyway.
Or would an 80mm 45 degree head be better.
If so what and where from. Lol
As for getting this done. Will the Bridgeport handle this bundle for 170 or am I better just buying some TP*N and Getting them here for Monday.
I can't do it Sat or Sun anyway.
Or would an 80mm 45 degree head be better.
If so what and where from. Lol
Kram
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Did you try running faster? If your current tool is cutting ok, looks like it is, theres no advantage of cbn inserts.
I cant say about other styles of inserts, theres a big trade off between sharpness and durability.
The finish your getting tells me that look like the blunter sort. A light rub on diamond wheel may improve the cut, speed you can push it and finish.
I cant say about other styles of inserts, theres a big trade off between sharpness and durability.
The finish your getting tells me that look like the blunter sort. A light rub on diamond wheel may improve the cut, speed you can push it and finish.
Hood
I am obsessed.
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- Carnoustie, Scotland
The trouble with the old style inserts is they have no shape to the surface so present a flat face to the material and thus suck up power.
The likes of the APMT style inserts are much easier on things as the geometry means they do not require so much power, problem is they are one sided and relatively weak but not really less than the TP*N inserts.
The newer generation have the geometry shape to reduce the force required but also have the thickness to be more robust.
Below is a comparison between APMT style and LNMX style. Granted the LNMX is a bigger insert, 15 as opposed to the 10 of the other but they have similar geometry.
The thickness of the two however is where things differ greatly.
And being Scottish I like that they are economical, 4 cutting edges instead of the APMT styles 2.
You can see both flipped over, the APMT style is one sided so basically you have 2 for the price of one on the LNMX.
The likes of the APMT style inserts are much easier on things as the geometry means they do not require so much power, problem is they are one sided and relatively weak but not really less than the TP*N inserts.
The newer generation have the geometry shape to reduce the force required but also have the thickness to be more robust.
Below is a comparison between APMT style and LNMX style. Granted the LNMX is a bigger insert, 15 as opposed to the 10 of the other but they have similar geometry.
The thickness of the two however is where things differ greatly.
And being Scottish I like that they are economical, 4 cutting edges instead of the APMT styles 2.
You can see both flipped over, the APMT style is one sided so basically you have 2 for the price of one on the LNMX.
