Land Rover Defender 110 Rebuild

[Robotstar5]

Spent 30mins trying to unscrew one tow bar bolt and still didn't get it off.

If it's one of the 2 lower ones going through the chassis you're better off cutting/grinding the bolt as you are getting a new chassis

 

[KimB]

Thanks for the advice about removing the tow bar. It was the 4big bolts that were the issue.
Didn't get a whole lot done today. Just took whatever I could off, managed to get the tow bar off ecentually. Took about an hour. It was really siezed. Had to cut 3 of the 8bolts off.

Everything had little bags cable tied to it to stop water getting in when I jetwashed it. This was the start of the day.

Stsrted by trying to get the tank and fuel lines off carefully as I know the fuel pipes are like £400 to replace

Carefully took the wiring look out which left it pretty bare

Took the exhaust and prop shafts off.

Finally got the tow bar off, hallelujah!!!

Took the front suspension turrets off.

The rest of the photos are just showing what's left to do. I managed to get all the bolts of for the steering pump but couldn't pry it off so gave up until the axle is out. I've got what my bf said is a racon pump anyway as mines got allot of play

As a friend just reminded me once it's all off, cleaned up and I have new bolts the chassis will fly together which is true, just need to work hard and get to that stage. I'll take the axles out latest Monday, and begin prepping them all for a service and painting then get chassis end of next week and prep that.

 

[The Devils Reject]

Change the ball joint on the A frame before you put it back together - it's a sow of a job to do when everything is back together.

 

[KimB]

Change the ball joint on the A frame before you put it back together - it's a sow of a job to do when everything is back together.

A frame on the rear axle ? I've been told how hard that is to get off

 

[The Devils Reject]

A frame on the rear axle ? I've been told how hard that is to get off

That's the one. Took a 30 tonne press, a good deal of heat and the judicious use of BFH to change mine.

 

[Bobtail4x4]

the chassis doesnt look that bad, I have seen far worse with an mot.

 

[rory1]

I snapped the little plastic ends on the fuel pipes that fit into the pump on my 110, the new pipes were a fortune to replace as you can't get the ends on their own.

I ended up turning up some replica end pieces out of aluminium and used rubber fuel hose instead of the plastic pipe.

 

[KimB]

That's the one. Took a 30 tonne press, a good deal of heat and the judicious use of BFH to change mine.

I'm not looking forward to that then .

the chassis doesnt look that bad, I have seen far worse with an mot.

It's doesn't look that bad but it needs allot of work and I don't see the point of doing it.

I snapped the little plastic ends on the fuel pipes that fit into the pump on my 110, the new pipes were a fortune to replace as you can't get the ends on their own.

I ended up turning up some replica end pieces out of aluminium and used rubber fuel hose instead of the plastic pipe.

That's what my bf's friend did to his. But they had to buy a new hose

 

[Robotstar5]

I was looking for a chap who advertised in the LR mags who did fastener sets as I'd found him good on previous rebuilds, no luck but did find this don't know if it's of any help?

 

[KimB]

I was looking for a chap who advertised in the LR mags who did fastener sets as I'd found him good on previous rebuilds, no luck but did find this don't know if it's of any help?

Great idea but £550 :O I'm having to order bolt sets but whatever isn't to the galvanising I'm using stainless as long as it's not a suspension component. Don't want my axles fallig off lol

 

[Cobbler]

That's the one. Took a 30 tonne press, a good deal of heat and the judicious use of BFH to change mine.

When we did my sons 90, we bought the ball joint complete with the bracket & just unbolted it. Saved pressing out the old one, as the complete thing was not much dearer than the joint on its own.

 

[KimB]

When we did my sons 90, we bought the ball joint complete with the bracket & just unbolted it. Saved pressing out the old one, as the complete thing was not much dearer than the joint on its own.

I'll be doing that then lol

 

[excossack]

If you are replacing the brake lines I can recommend Automec brake pipes and customer services is also good.
I fitted them to my 110(the complete set). The rear axle one was a little longer than expected but with the 110 in bits you could probably get the pipes routed better than lying on your back in the drive!

 

[Cobbler]

I'll be doing that then lol

http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html, from Paddock it £40 odd, but I don't remember it being as dear as that, I will ask my son where he got it. As the joints about £12 I would have changed it.

What I have done to remove large ball joints, when the rear of the joint protrudes through the housing is to grind the rear of the joint away, then drive the ball out of the back. Then you can split the joint remains with a hacksaw carefully & drive it out with a hammer. the new one can be pressed in relatively easily. I don't know if this is possible, it all depends if you can get at the back of the joint. I had to do this on my T2 VW steering when my friends press gave up at 30 tons

 

[excossack]

and if you are after quality stainless bolts for the doors, bonnets etc
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic34427.html

 

[awemawson]

If you are using stainless nuts and bolts you must use anti-seize compound on them. They jam up very easily and often will shear off before unscrewing.

 

[Robotstar5]

Found the one I was looking for - LR Fasteners they do single items to sets.

 

[super noob]

While its apart you want to ditch that terrible TD5 engine and drop a 6bt with conversion plate in

 

[KimB]

If you are replacing the brake lines I can recommend Automec brake pipes and customer services is also good.
I fitted them to my 110(the complete set). The rear axle one was a little longer than expected but with the 110 in bits you could probably get the pipes routed better than lying on your back in the drive!

I was just going to buy brake pipe and make them myself. I can't rememebr the name of the pipe but it's not copper. I've already got new braided hoses. I'll be rebuilding all the callipers as well and may get them shot plasted.

http://www.paddockspares.com/fulcrum-bracket.html, from Paddock it £40 odd, but I don't remember it being as dear as that, I will ask my son where he got it. As the joints about £12 I would have changed it.

What I have done to remove large ball joints, when the rear of the joint protrudes through the housing is to grind the rear of the joint away, then drive the ball out of the back. Then you can split the joint remains with a hacksaw carefully & drive it out with a hammer. the new one can be pressed in relatively easily. I don't know if this is possible, it all depends if you can get at the back of the joint. I had to do this on my T2 VW steering when my friends press gave up at 30 tons

Not sure I understand that but i may do when I get to it lol. I'll read back then

and if you are after quality stainless bolts for the doors, bonnets etc
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic34427.html

I'll have a good look. I don't want to order a bolts kit and get bolts I don't need or ones that I already have.

If you are using stainless nuts and bolts you must use anti-seize compound on them. They jam up very easily and often will shear off before unscrewing.

Will do I didn't think stainless did that ?

Found the one I was looking for - LR Fasteners they do single items to sets.

I'll look through there as well I need quite a few suspension bolts I say a few I mean everything ha

While its apart you want to ditch that terrible TD5 engine and drop a 6bt with conversion plate in

I like td5 I'm going to remove the centre silencer too they sound amazing. And pull well when remapped.

 

[Cobbler]

[QUOTE="Cobbler, post: 613770, member: 16532"

What I have done to remove large ball joints, when the rear of the joint protrudes through the housing is to grind the rear of the joint away, then drive the ball out of the back. Then you can split the joint remains with a hacksaw carefully & drive it out with a hammer. the new one can be pressed in relatively easily. I don't know if this is possible, it all depends if you can get at the back of the joint. I had to do this on my T2 VW steering when my friends press gave up at 30 tons[/QUOTE]

Hi Kim, what I was trying to explain is, you destroy the ball joint by cutting away the back, then this allows the ball & taper part to be be driven out, leaving the pressed in surround in place. You can then, by taking your hacksaw apart feed the blade through the middle & cut outwards through the remains of the joint. Once cut through it will knock out easily.

I hope this is clearer for you, when you look at the joint I think it will become clear.