Knurling

[Kram]

Had another look on ebay and ordered this one.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Wheel-Knurling-Tool-Clamp-Action-Lathe-Spring-Loaded-Knurl-Tool-Clamp/124150283828

 

[armalites]

Anything I need to get a grip on will get knurled.

I think you may have just happened upon a new saying to annoy the youth of today, instead of "get a grip" => "go knurl yourself"

 

[Arc Tourist]

Had another look on ebay and ordered this one.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Wheel-Knurling-Tool-Clamp-Action-Lathe-Spring-Loaded-Knurl-Tool-Clamp/124150283828

For better clamping (and to save your fingers), consider replacing the knurled knob with a nut so that you can tighten with a spanner or socket wrench.

 

[lchris21]

ive got a couple of different types, clamp and push. Find the clamp one more useful for the thinner or harder stuff, and the push type for stuff between centers, or more meaty. some bits ive done recently. stainless foot controls, and aluminium locknuts for my bike build.

 

[slim_boy_fat]

For better clamping (and to save your fingers), consider replacing the knurled knob with a nut so that you can tighten with a spanner or socket wrench.

Or machine a couple of flats, best of both worlds?

 

[Kram]

It may be that Im using it wrong, or it might just be rubbish.

It does have spanner flats.

 

[Seadog]

It's a copy of the J&S knurlers. Which style QCTP do you have, piston or wedge?

 

[Arc Tourist]

Not sure where I have it at the moment , but there is a formula for turning the material to be knurled to a correct diameter for the particular knurling wheels used, so they don't overlap.

Edit: Best explained here on this YouTube video. ……. " Knurling and a few things you should know " - by Joe Pieczynski

 

[Seadog]

I've never calculated the diameter but here's something you could try - https://littlemachineshop.com/reference/knurler.php

 

[Dr.Al]

I tend to calculate the diameter (using the calculator on my website) and I usually get good results. Most things I've read say calculate the diameter and then tweak until the pattern looks right, but I usually just make it the right diameter and then go for it. That's always worked for me.

It's worth getting a flow of something over the knurls to clear the swarf. What "something" is doesn't matter that much in my experience. I've used cutting oil or WD40 for steel; for brass I usually just use low-pressure compressed air.

Takes a bit of practice to get the pressure right, but you I wouldn't expect you to need to use the spanner flats. I tend to position it just shy of the centre (so not at full diameter), tighten it until it touches and then let the cross-slide push it over centre.

 

[Hood]

Personally I would say lots of pressure and decent sharp knurls are what you need. Diameter doesn't make any difference in my opinion, the knurls will track fine if you have the pressure. Tickle the part with the knurls and they will skip and not track.

 

[northwest]

Personally I would say lots of pressure and decent sharp knurls are what you need. Diameter doesn't make any difference in my opinion, the knurls will track fine if you have the pressure. Tickle the part with the knurls and they will skip and not track.

This is my experience too. I have never calculated a diameter, in fact, John Stephenson once knurled a cone to prove a point, I will try to find the article.
I am not saying NOT calculating is wrong, just I have never had an issue and I use cut knurls almost exclusively.

The snag with some of these tools is they are half steel/half rice and will blunt faster than a fast thing. If you cannot get some of the bigger (older) tools like the Jones and shipman to fit your machine you can use the wheels and make a tool.

 

[Kram]

I had it tracking ok once I had it aligned and tightened it up, problem was the amount of torque needed, this was only mild steel. It had the belt slipping on my big pulley, and any attempt at traversing pulled my toolpost off at an angle..
I will try on alu.

 

[Hood]

I had it tracking ok once I had it aligned and tightened it up, problem was the amount of torque needed, this was only mild steel. It had the belt slipping on my big pulley, and any attempt at traversing pulled my toolpost off at an angle..
I will try on alu.

Do you have decent knurls? I got a set with the Chinese wedge toolpost and although the toolpost was decent the knurls were scrap.

 

[Screwdriver]

It may be that Im using it wrong, or it might just be rubbish.

It does have spanner flats.

Looks like you're using them in a static position. You need to feed those rollers and ideally, trim the start stop position once you're done.

I have never had any trouble with calculating diameters, I don't bother. Just gradually increase feed pressure on multiple passes with plenty of cutting oil.

 

[Seadog]

t had the belt slipping on my big pulley, and any attempt at traversing pulled my toolpost off at an angle.

What lathe do you have? My Boxford never has a problem, and there's always back gear as a last resort
Did the tool post move or was it the compound?

 

[Matchless]

Looks like you're using them in a static position. You need to feed those rollers and ideally, trim the start stop position once you're done.

I have never had any trouble with calculating diameters, I don't bother. Just gradually increase feed pressure on multiple passes with plenty of cutting oil.

same process I use, works for me.

 

[Kram]

Ok just needed more practise!

After knurling do you leave as is, turn or file the burrs off?