JLR Workshop fun

premmington · 2026-03-18T18:53:23+0000

Ubique said:
Parts turned up this morning - two AC pipe sections and four subframe bolts, if you ever have to release or remove the subframe bolts, do not, reuse them - it's nothing to do with being angular tightened after torquing (although that does apply), the original bolts are trilobal 'self cutting', reusing them can/will cause the existing thread to be damaged so use the 'refit' bolts which are standard, round thread bolts.

These are the correct ones, old bolt next to it for identification

View attachment 533537

The reason for two sections of pipe - the failed one, plus the section in front of it, the joint is exposed and I've never found it to either come apart without twisting the pipe or reseal properly due to corrosion damaging the new seals as the union is pushed together. The union roughly in line with the 'B' pillar is better protected and accessible.

First step, remove the exhaust, reasonably easy as most hangers are bolted on, only the rearmost two need to be drawn off the pins
View attachment 533548

Then, slacken the four subframe bolts by hand, release the NSR damper from the lower suspension arm, deflate the NRS suspension airbag & remove the pneumatic coupling.
Support the subframe using the factory location holes - most transmission jacks will fit the holes.
View attachment 533543 View attachment 533544

Then fully remove the NS subframe bolts & the front location bracket, withdraw the OS subframe bolts by 30mm and lower the transmission jacks, giving access to the AC pipes, note the fastening clamp and body stud (circled).

Release the electrical harness retainers as they become exposes as the subframe is lowered

View attachment 533542

View attachment 533547

Here's the pipe union that suffers corrosion
View attachment 533545
An air saw takes care of that!

Fit the pipes bur ensure the union above and the one onto the existing pipes are fully fitted and tight before fitting any pipe clips or securing the clamps to the body
View attachment 533540 View attachment 533539

Then it's just a case of refitting everything, torquing the subframe bolts, wheel alignment (only needs front & rear toe as the camber is set at manufacture) vacuum the lines - I usually start this once the lines are fitted so it gets a deep vacuum to clear any moisture from the filter-drier, recharge the refrigerant -1040g! Total time, just over three hours, although it was a bit stop-start as I had a couple of diag jobs that 'just needs plugging in' to look at.... LR repair time, 8.8 hours.

Looks like "LR hell to me" :doh:

Craig-SM · 2026-03-18T18:57:09+0000

I still lust after a LR but posts like this and other stories of reliability scare me off them.

Ubique · 2026-03-18T19:05:04+0000

Another 'quickie', 2018 Range Rover Sport turned up from a trader, 'just needs suspension calibrating'.... yer, right.
What still amazes me is, even though salesmen know we'll find out they still lie, or neglect to tell the people working on their sales cars the full story.... and look all surprised when we tell them what they already know!
Anyway, vehicle presented with various warnings on the dash, relating to suspension and braking - also a special message - 'suspension not in customer mode', this one indicates someone has been playing.... That message and resultant DTC can only appear if the system has been put into tight tolerance mode for geometry adjustment.
Took the vehicle out of tight tolerance mode, calibrated the air suspension - all good, now only one warning on the dash & one DTC remains

Followed by the applicable further action - this is the bit 'experienced' tech's ignore, in this case a valve block would probably have been ordered - at £2k

Even if not stated, it is seldom time wasted carrying out wiring checks - even if to 100% discount it as the cause of the fault.

In this case however...

Removed the sub-harness from the ARC valve block, stripped the tape from the affected section and fitted a new 'pigtail' to the connector housing.

The cause was most likely insulation damage during packing or at build, the harness is available as a replacement but a) isn't needed and b) on backorder anyway!

Refitted the harness, cleared DTC & road tested with a bit of flinging around bends!

Ubique · 2026-03-18T19:08:04+0000

Craig-SM said:
I still lust after a LR but posts like this and other stories of reliability scare me off them.

Dig into any brand, they all have their weaknesses - you only live once!
I've given up overthinking life choices, better to do and not regret it than not to do - and regret it.
Even if you do, and regret it - at least you did it!

premmington · 2026-03-18T19:12:55+0000

Ubique said:
Another 'quickie', 2018 Range Rover Sport turned up from a trader, 'just needs suspension calibrating'.... yer, right.
What still amazes me is, even though salesmen know we'll find out they still lie, or neglect to tell the people working on their sales cars the full story.... and look all surprised when we tell them what they already know!
Anyway, vehicle presented with various warnings on the dash, relating to suspension and braking - also a special message - 'suspension not in customer mode', this one indicates someone has been playing.... That message and resultant DTC can only appear if the system has been put into tight tolerance mode for geometry adjustment.
Took the vehicle out of tight tolerance mode, calibrated the air suspension - all good, now only one warning on the dash & one DTC remains

View attachment 533559

Followed by the applicable further action - this is the bit 'experienced' tech's ignore, in this case a valve block would probably have been ordered - at £2k

View attachment 533558

Even if not stated, it is seldom time wasted carrying out wiring checks - even if to 100% discount it as the cause of the fault.

In this case however...

View attachment 533555

Removed the sub-harness from the ARC valve block, stripped the tape from the affected section and fitted a new 'pigtail' to the connector housing.
View attachment 533554 View attachment 533553
The cause was most likely insulation damage during packing or at build, the harness is available as a replacement but a) isn't needed and b) on backorder anyway!

Refitted the harness, cleared DTC & road tested with a bit of flinging around bends!

"sales reptiles" - life would be better without them...

Craig-SM · 2026-03-18T19:23:57+0000

Ubique said:
Dig into any brand, they all have their weaknesses - you only live once!
I've given up overthinking life choices, better to do and not regret it than not to do - and regret it.
Even if you do, and regret it - at least you did it!

Absolutely with regards to no manufacturer is perfect but LR seem to cursed. I may only live once but I’d rather it not be stressed finding money to keep mechanics busy.

As someone in the know which Discovery or Range Rover with what engine and spec would you recommend and what to run away from?

premmington · 2026-03-18T19:27:52+0000

Craig-SM said:
Absolutely with regards to no manufacturer is perfect but LR seem to cursed. I may only live once but I’d rather it not be stressed finding money to keep mechanics busy.

As someone in the know which Discovery or Range Rover with what engine and spec would you recommend and what to run away from

1. "Absolutely with regards to no manufacturer is perfect but LR seem to cursed. I may only live once but I’d rather it not be stressed finding money to keep mechanics busy."

Someone gotta keep me in "the lifestyle I am accustomed too"

2. "As someone in the know which Discovery or Range Rover with what engine and spec would you recommend and what to run away from"

Just don't entertain any of them is my defined advice!

keithski122 · 2026-03-18T20:04:30+0000

So so glad I'm no longer in the motor trade. Did the rear shocks on my car in the driveway the other day, easy job about half an hour and didn't even need to jack the car up. Had a look at replacing the rear silencer, bolts look too rusty to easily fit sockets on while laying on my back, book it in for someone else to do.

harveyp6 · 2026-03-18T20:07:09+0000

premmington said:
Just don't entertain any of them is my defined advice!

There speaks the voice of experience.

premmington · 2026-03-18T20:12:41+0000

keithski122 said:
So so glad I'm no longer in the motor trade. Did the rear shocks on my car in the driveway the other day, easy job about half an hour and didn't even need to jack the car up. Had a look at replacing the rear silencer, bolts look too rusty to easily fit sockets on while laying on my back, book it in for someone else to do.

I hate cars too.... :whistle:

Ubique · 2026-03-18T20:18:39+0000

Craig-SM said:
Absolutely with regards to no manufacturer is perfect but LR seem to cursed. I may only live once but I’d rather it not be stressed finding money to keep mechanics busy.

As someone in the know which Discovery or Range Rover with what engine and spec would you recommend and what to run away from?

It entirely depends upon what you want it for! - and price range / age expectation
Mainly short journeys - petrol
Mainly 1 or two people - Freelander2 or Discovery Sport
Dogs or people to lug around, camping / towing - Discovery 3 or 4
As above, but not so much space needed or better comfort wanted - L322/L405

On top of that, how the car has been looked after prior to your potential ownership matters a lot - don't discount high mileage as that (especially with a diesel) will mean it's got less chance of low usage issues - oil dilution wear, timing chains, DPF etc.

As with any car, if you do less than 10k a year and it's mainly commuting, then I'd strongly urge you to consider a petrol car - running costs are comparable to a diesel but with none of the imposed emissions regulations that can kill a diesel that never gets chance to 'stretch it's legs' every week or so. Even then, at least halve the service intervals (on any car) for engine oil & filter change - and use the correct specification oil, not just viscosity.

Ubique · 2026-03-18T20:19:12+0000

premmington said:
I hate cars too....

Me too!

Craig-SM · 2026-03-18T20:25:51+0000

Ubique said:
It entirely depends upon what you want it for! - and price range / age expectation
Mainly short journeys - petrol
Mainly 1 or two people - Freelander2 or Discovery Sport
Dogs or people to lug around, camping / towing - Discovery 3 or 4
As above, but not so much space needed or better comfort wanted - L322/L405

On top of that, how the car has been looked after prior to your potential ownership matters a lot - don't discount high mileage as that (especially with a diesel) will mean it's got less chance of low usage issues - oil dilution wear, timing chains, DPF etc.

As with any car, if you do less than 10k a year and it's mainly commuting, then I'd strongly urge you to consider a petrol car - running costs are comparable to a diesel but with none of the imposed emissions regulations that can kill a diesel that never gets chance to 'stretch it's legs' every week or so. Even then, at least halve the service intervals (on any car) for engine oil & filter change - and use the correct specification oil, not just viscosity.

Wife and dog and used as 2nd car but used on UK holidays too so probably petrol. Prefer comfort but still be used for lugging stuff around so assuming Discovery and in which case anything to watch for?

m_c · 2026-03-18T20:25:57+0000

premmington said:
Even changing a bottom arm on any Fiat 500 - is no joke - front subframe/bumber has to come off - as bolt heads for front bushes hidden.

I done one clutch on a Fiat 500. NEVER AGAIN

I've done a clutch on a Fiat 500, but I don't remember it being that bad.
It was a relatively new one though. Guy had bought for his daughter to learn in, but had an issue with loss of power.
The loss of power was the fact the engine revved while you slowly gained speed :rolleyes:

I do remember we could only get a genuine clutch kit at great expense though.

Melvyn Best · 2026-03-18T20:48:43+0000

m_c said:
I've done a clutch on a Fiat 500, but I don't remember it being that bad.
It was a relatively new one though. Guy had bought for his daughter to learn in, but had an issue with loss of power.
The loss of power was the fact the engine revved while you slowly gained speed

I do remember we could only get a genuine clutch kit at great expense though.

Had the one I did been a bit newer and not been used as a submarine things might have been a bit easier! Without a doubt the worst clutch job I have ever done

JLR Workshop fun

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