Parm
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Sadly I don’t know what this means
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AndersK
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Means that your printer might be just fine 
There's a sensor on the prińt head that measure distance to bed to calculate correct nozzle offset (or simplified, zero in Z-axis).
The limit switch is just a micro switch that set max Z height.
If you had the Z limit switch that much wrong you wouldn't have been able to print the dog
There's a sensor on the prińt head that measure distance to bed to calculate correct nozzle offset (or simplified, zero in Z-axis).
The limit switch is just a micro switch that set max Z height.
If you had the Z limit switch that much wrong you wouldn't have been able to print the dog
Parm
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Ok. I’ve levelled the bed again today. It’s quite an art judging how much resistance there should be. Now it’s marginally more resistance than my previous stumps and it’s working brilliantMeans that your printer might be just fine
There's a sensor on the prińt head that measure distance to bed to calculate correct nozzle offset (or simplified, zero in Z-axis).
The limit switch is just a micro switch that set max Z height.
If you had the Z limit switch that much wrong you wouldn't have been able to print the dog
I’m printing a knife sharpening jig with many parts. Three bits done so far and they have come out perfect
Pete.
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Ender 3 doesn't have a probe. It's an option though.
brewdexta
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I'm pretty sure ender3 don't have a sensor, that's why I added a bltouch probe. I initially had the same issue and adjusted the z limit switch.Means that your printer might be just fine
There's a sensor on the prińt head that measure distance to bed to calculate correct nozzle offset (or simplified, zero in Z-axis).
The limit switch is just a micro switch that set max Z height.
If you had the Z limit switch that much wrong you wouldn't have been able to print the dog
Pete.
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Another thing - the glass bed and magnetic pad on the ender is often not quite flat. I took to only setting the gap right above the springs because I was getting frustrated with checking all over and finding some places the paper was tight ad others loose. Now I adjust it so that the paper drages right above the adjusters, and I do it when the bed is heated too.
MattF
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I've noted that middle compared to corners has a very slight disparity.
I've read a few reviews and apart from the filament motor being wired backwards in some reviews, it seems to be a straight swap.
A small bit of thin paper under the middle of the magnetic bed can fix that. Till receipts are quite often thin enough.
Parm
Respect The Sound System
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Progress is being made. After some head scratching, swearing and levelling the bed again it’s now producing consistent prints.
no more lifting or adhesion issues and no more birds nesting
This is Sunlu PLA + with 208 at the extruder and bed at 58
so far so good
Parts so far for a knife sharpening jig
no more lifting or adhesion issues and no more birds nesting
This is Sunlu PLA + with 208 at the extruder and bed at 58
so far so good
Parts so far for a knife sharpening jig
slim_boy_fat
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Parm
Respect The Sound System
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It’s been jolly hard work. I don’t have the natural intuition for all this computery stuff, so making changes to things I didn’t, and still don’t fully understand required a big brave pill to be swallowed@Parm You've come on in leaps & bounds since you first opened the box!
I think I’m slowly getting the hang of it, but that was the whole idea to push myself to do something I wouldn’t normally do
MattF
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Cheers.
Just fired it up with the new board in, (going to have to re-read regarding firmware updating. It's not loading it from the sd card), & it's recognising the machine, even though it's an Ender 3 firmware preloaded? Not tried printing owt yet though, so not sure which way it's trying to feed filament, as yet.Put a bit of silicone tube over some of the case to frame screws too, so that there's no chance of any nearby cables chafing on the screws.
Parm
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Not sure about pro, but certainly more knowledgeable than I was this time yesterdayHe had a print shop make them for him
Just kidding, looks great Parm, you're a pro now
MattF
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It's feeding the filament the correct way, thankfully.
Btw, me being me, have also made a couple of, technically unnecessary, changes on the bed front.
Silicone bushes instead of the springs, & replaced the handwheels with a bit of bling.
Btw, should the fan at the front of the printhead be running constantly, even when it's not printing, or may they have put that fan & the one in the bottom psu/board cover plate in the wrong/opposite sockets?
Btw, me being me, have also made a couple of, technically unnecessary, changes on the bed front.
Silicone bushes instead of the springs, & replaced the handwheels with a bit of bling. Btw, should the fan at the front of the printhead be running constantly, even when it's not printing, or may they have put that fan & the one in the bottom psu/board cover plate in the wrong/opposite sockets?
The fan for cooling the printhead/heatsink/thermal break should run constantly, whereas the one for cooling the workpiece/nozzle should be controllable.It's feeding the filament the correct way, thankfully.
Btw, me being me, have also made a couple of, technically unnecessary, changes on the bed front.
View attachment 301983
Btw, should the fan at the front of the printhead be running constantly, even when it's not printing, or may they have put that fan & the one in the bottom psu/board cover plate in the wrong/opposite sockets?
