I'm so sorry... New to welding and need help.

  1. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Location:
    london
    On my MR2 the rot was mostly on the lowest 2-3 inches of the sill. I just kept cutting until I got it out. Might be easier to form a repair panel before you get started...any rust on the rear of the metal will cause blow holes.

    I don't know if it's correct...I think it's the oxygen that is liberated from the rust that causes the problem?
     
  2. Dan Evans New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    Hi everyone

    Last night I started to take all the paint away and low and behold, there were more rust patches to I have started taking them off.

    I've spent all day today trying to find someone who could make me a set but no one does this anymore and the one person I found wanted £1000, Yep you heard me right, £1000 to supply 2 x 1.6m curves with a 20mm right angle. I think they work out about 160mm x 1.6m total.

    I'm going to try and roll my own but where is the best place to get sheet metal and I take it i just want mild steel with 1mm thickness?

    Thanks
     
  3. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Location:
    london
    I use zinc coated steel (zinctec)...measure the thickness of what is there already and use the same....thats what I did.

    Just bend the bottom flange then clamp to the car and bend in situ. Once it has a rough curve it should tweak easily. No reason you can't just make in 2 pieces I think.

    Remember to remove the zinc at the weld joint.

    You might find someone on eBay who can cut what you need too....I'm betting it's 0.7mm but I would measure it to be sure....think 0.8mm is available and what I used on the Figaro.
     
  4. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    10,726
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    i use the steel im provided with and make my own up in about an hour

    just using a vice and a 3x2 and hammer

    this van wanted it all the wayd down to other wheel arch

    15621696_718901764925868_6930239657758959246_n.jpg 16864670_754156548067056_821735448209588831_n.jpg 17553462_769918389824205_8671378415204466610_n.jpg
     
  5. Matchless

    Matchless Member

    Messages:
    1,207
    Location:
    Essex UK
    That's a sh1t way of doing it!
     
  6. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    Have to makes a hard master ,,, a lot of cars were '' buck'' formed , which is basically the same thing/
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2020
  7. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    1,828
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    Make up a good card template of the outside profile , it will look a bit like a question mark .
    Pop down to who ever is local and does fab , they will make you two long sections that match your profile , if the cant roll them , which they probably cant , they can do them on a standard folder , just in lots of little steps if they dont have round nose tooling ,, very very easy to do ,, i usually use 1.2mm plain steel for this , once you have the long bits you can make the ends on the bench , but with the long bits done it will all look a lot less intimidating , my reason for 1.2 , its way easier to weld , as the extra thickness lets you weld from the new to the old , and it works like a heat sink ,, if the whole lot cost 40 quid 50 at the worst every one would be happy ,
    i do a lot of this sort of work , and have made sills for all sorts using the multi fold method, if needs be a skim of filler at the end smooths everything out , hth
     
    a111r likes this.
  8. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    4,352
    east sussex
    :whistle:
     
  9. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Location:
    london
    Just make a flange, clamp to car...push it over with your foot.

    Takes 10 minutes tops...once you have rough shape then it's easy to fettle.
     
    sg66 and Shedendman like this.
  10. sg66 Member

    Messages:
    582
    Location:
    northeast
    Some times followed up by a drain down pipe if more of a curve needed, suppose they belong down the drain......
     
    Pigeon_Droppings2 likes this.
  11. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Location:
    london
    I think it's called the U-bend technique...drain pipe is No1....soil pipe is No2 :laughing:

    Sorry couldn't help myself....I do enjoy a bit of toilet humour :laughing::laughing:
     
    tom2207 likes this.
  12. Cobbler

    Cobbler Codger bodger

    Messages:
    5,168
    Location:
    Gloucestershire UK
    Needs a bit of farting about :laughing::laughing:
     
    Pigeon_Droppings2 likes this.
  13. sg66 Member

    Messages:
    582
    Location:
    northeast
    I bet your feeling flush now
     
    Pigeon_Droppings2 likes this.
  14. gaz1

    gaz1 Member

    Messages:
    10,726
    Location:
    westyorkshire
    too much gas being given off with all this bs going on

    becareful not to light a flame there though :D
     
  15. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    4,352
    east sussex
    @Dan Evans if you dont feel your confident enough to form those sills then do a bit more research.
    The Nissan S Cargo from what i found had the old datsun/nissan sunny running gear,i'm pretty sure they might have used panels form other models also,car makers do this,we have 8,000 pairs of sills left over from XXXX why not use them on so an so etc
    Look at models built by them at that time,89-92,i'd take a safe bet they use the same on something else with a bit of cut and shut it'll save you a lot of hassel in the long run,dont forget you need to bring it back to a good finish,less work you do there the better;)
     
    slim_boy_fat and tom2207 like this.
  16. Dan Evans New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    So an update.

    I have found someone who can make me them but they won't be done till Wednesday.

    They have cost £60 but at least I don't have to mess around with bending them into shape.

    I will update you all when I get them and let you know how I got on.
     
  17. Cobbler

    Cobbler Codger bodger

    Messages:
    5,168
    Location:
    Gloucestershire UK
    Money well spent I would say, it will save you a lot of time & messing about. Keep us posted on your progress.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2020
  18. Dan Evans New Member

    Messages:
    8
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    Just a question, I can get a 4x8 sheet of galvanised mild steel for £20 locally, could I use that to make the sills?

    I understand you have to grind the galvanised part off on the weld sections (so pretty much all of it) but would it work or is it more hassle than its worth
     
  19. Shedendman

    Shedendman Member

    Messages:
    4,352
    east sussex
    Be more hassle than its worth esp if you've not welded galv before,save yourself the headache and pay for them to be made,if they get them wrong,you've got some come back,£60 for the pair IMHO is a bloody good price:thumbup:
     
  20. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Location:
    london
    Zinctec is what I use...just to clarify you only grind off say 20cm along the weld joint itself (both sides). This is because welding with the zinc coating left on gives off toxic fumes.

    £60 seems cheap...but only if you actually get what you want.

    The Figaro is based on the Micra K10...I thought the scargo was the same...maybe I'm thinking of the Pao.

    If the scargo rots like the Figaro the large sheet might come in handy :laughing:
     
    tom2207 likes this.
Advertisements