Help finding post of milling machine

  1. T0rnado69

    T0rnado69 DIY nut !!

    Basildon, Essex
    i think mine is a M3 type and i use a er32 collet chuck and collet set i got from chronos..

    the drawbar threads into the collet chuck and hold it in place.

    my one you use a special spanner and a normal spanner to unlock the large nut to remove the collect and cutting bit.
  2. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Dont talk to me about removing morse tapers.........
    This is what I had to use!
    With 2 wedges.

  3. Hopefuldave Intergalactic pot-mender

    The Shed of Danger, surrey, England
    Which is why I wanted (and got) a mill with a 40-taper spindle...

    Place I worked ("what's the worst job you ever had" - no, not picking lobsters out of Jayne Mansfield's...) had a 3 Morse taper chuck stuck in the mill that had defeated two "engineers" for 5 years, Magic Wedges had it out inside the first week.

    Morse tapers are "self-locking", and very much so - R8 less so, ISO 30 / 40 / 50 not at all!

    Dave H. (the other one)
    fizzy likes this.
  4. My mill has a 4 Morse Taper quill with a Morse Taper to Deckel collet adapter fitted.
    The draw bar passes through the adapter into the collet to tighten and release.
    To remove the adapter there is a threaded extractor ring on the nose of the quill.
    The plus points are that the collets fit inside the mill so no stick out.
    The negative point is that the maximum Deckel collet size is 17.5mm.
    To fit anything larger you need to fit a ER type collet holder with either a 4 MT or Deckel shank, an ER40 will hold a maximum 1" or 26mm shank milling cutter.
    My mill does have a full set of metric and imperial collets though, and I've machined a Jacobs chuck to Deckel adapter as well as a Weldon shank (mag drill cutters) to Deckel.
  5. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Well, I give up! :mad: Reply from BG [they have been good in answering emails, so full marks for that :thumbup:] to say they've consulted their supplier(s) who confirm that it's M10. The wording implies that that's it, as far as they're concerned.

    Now, the odd thing is, the Clarkson chuck which came with the mill is M10 [my threaded bar fits it ] but the drawbar from the mill won't screw into the ER32 chuck?????? Logic then dictates that either it's not M10, or it's a very poorly executed threading.....
    I'm going to have to re-tap the hole, pity on a new part. :( Never mind, nobody died......:D
    fizzy likes this.
  6. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Done and sorted! :thumbup: Drilled out the existing thread [whatever it was] using an 8.5mm drill which did remove a little material, then tapped it with an M10 tap - thing's perfect now.....:rolleyes:.

    I ran out of time to measure/make a drawbar for the ML7 in case I want to use the collets on it, but at least now I know I wasn't being dim - I find it very odd that it came like that......:dontknow:

    I've advised BG re what I had to do, but I don't suppose either they or their Supplier(s) will care much. :vsad:
    Pete. and fizzy like this.
  7. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Very odd must have been driving you crazy! Just a thought - not left hand by mistake?
    Funny how mine was a perfect m12 fit.
    Have you made anything yet with your new mill?
    slim_boy_fat likes this.
  8. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    Aye, it was! :mad: If I had any hair before, I've less now :laughing:.

    I've not had a chance to play yet as I just finished the fix this afternoon. I don't have any cutters [yet :(] to fit the Clarkson Autolock chuck, which is why I wanted to get the ER32 fitted. To be honest, I'm not sure how to use the CA, so it'll be YouTube when I get a half hour to spare.

    I ought to be able to at least make some cuts with what I have now. Visitors tomorrow so won't get much done, so it's looking like the weekend before I start destroying some scrap metal.....:D
    fizzy and Pete. like this.