I agree, and have had one for both my last two lathes, but I can count on one hand how often I use them. Last time was to put a full trailer axle in the chuck.
Same here had fixed and travelling on 2 out of 5 last lathes used every month. Last 10 years no fixed or traveling never once had the need.
The M300 is due to be delivered tomorrow, in preparation I've built a 3.2m level platform since the drive up to the workshop is sloping grass. I know mine doesn't have a lamp, I'd appreciate if any (circa 1990) M300 owners could detail the lamp style/model.
It's a hiab That may be an option, though headroom is a bit limited into the garage. I can always pull the platform out of the way if need be.
The lamps tend to be 3 phase hi-low, stuggling to remeber the brand and they are normally bolted on the back above the motor. They take **** bulbs and are frankly useless, you could go down the road of replacing the transformer..but I decided against it. Use some of the 12v low amp stuff from Ikea (they are nice an bright), any risk of coolant related shocks or mishaps will be fine. modyfying them to fit in nice aluminium mounting blocks is a doddle, the only thing I had to do was chop and heat shrink seal the wires if shortended Pictures available at some stage, as am away at moment
BHI - LoVo Lite 50V 60W traditional filament if I remember correctly. You could buy a tiny little transformer now I would of though to output 12 or 24v and just use an LED bulb.
@Brad93 is correct -BHI LoVo I couldn't find anything that would fit inside the Light housing that would do 3 phase to 12v or 24v. At this point I decidied the risk of using 240v (from a single phase supply) with very low amp/voltage whilst the lathe runs on 3 phase was managable and the DRO is also running of 240v as well.
Delivery went very well, massive hiab made it look easy... ...and managed to get half of it in the garage. Started stripping down to clean slides etc. Tailstock looks very good, compound also good. However the cross-slide anti backlash nuts are worn (one half so much so it just slides on the leadscrew). The cross-slide leadscrew looks like it has some life left. I'm planning on making a new nut, might just have it solid initially and according to lathes.co.uk later models were not adjustable. So does anyone know the thread type? It's obviously 2.5mm pitch which might imply 16mm trapezoidal....but I think it could be 5/8" acme?
The thread will vary if Metric or Imperial ?? Does it have 4 cap head screws to hold the Nuts if so, 2 of them are used for adjustment. I think I am right in saying that @Shox Dr replaced his with a modern thread, maybe he can comment on that. If you haven't got a copy of the manual PM your email
For the cross slide nuts, check ebay for a seller with the name something like reltub he makes new nuts
I have a set of new metric cross slide nuts and adjuster. Bought them for my M300 as it had loads of backlash in the cross slide. On stripping it down it turned out to be a bodged gib replacement in the taper turning attachment Send me a pm if interested but check it is that 1st
Yes it's adjustable....just too far gone in this case Yes got a message to him....he doesn't list M300 cross-slide nuts/leadscrew, but he does list the tailstock combo which he lists as 5/8" acme X 2.5mm.....which leads me to believe the cross-slide may be the same.
I hadn't used the travelling steady on my Triumph - ever, in 25 years, until I made a new spindle for my wide trike front wheel. No way could I stop it chattering without it, but I had to take a few cuts to take the eccentricity out of the shaft first. Actually, I'd never used one at all prior to this...
Aye I've bought them from him in the past. I have some bits in the garage that I could take measurements from if you need them
Replaced with 1605 ball screw, the nut needs modification (grinding) to bring it into line. OEM thread is 5/8x10.
