Misterg
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Did you export the component models from F360 to EasyEDA in the first place?
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sako243
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As said I'm not familiar with EasyEDA nor fusion (I have an old version of Inventor which is the basis for Fusion).
I assuming you are exporting EasyEDA designs using a STEP file before importing it into Fusion? The STEP format has no ability to store constraints in it so in effect each part is free floating in the model so there simply isn't a way to lock everything down.
Pulling on my knowledge of KICAD and Inventor which I use extensively then I export the PCB as a STEP file. This is imported into Inventor and I get an assembly representing the whole PCB with all the components within that. I treat that as a black box. If I open up and move a component on the board then all hell breaks loose but if it's treated as an assembly then everything is usually fine.
ajlelectronics
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Only three of them. The rest are from the EasyEDA library.
Misterg
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Suppose you draw a heatsink (like your earlier post) as component in an assembly. Then you sketch the outline of a transistor on it and extrude it (say) as a separate component. Everything will appear to be correct, however the components aren't linked by a joint. If you were to constrain the transistor legs to a PCB (say) and the heatsink to the chassis (say), there's nothing to keep the two together, so they can end up in two different places. To avoid this, add an 'As Built' joint between the transistor and the heatsink. This captures their relationship and means that they stay together through subsequent operations.
ajlelectronics
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Thank you, I will have a play with that. What is the difference between an as built and a plain joint?
Misterg
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Just the number of things you can specify, I think. An 'As-built' joint is just two clicks with almost no options.
Functionally, they are the same.
ajlelectronics
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Prototype in build. Just printing noise currently but it serves to show functionality at each stage of the assembly.
ajlelectronics
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Another design query please...
Imagine three stacked cylinders. I want to modify the middle one by "pushing the top edge inwards" to produce a hypotenuse. I tried push pull, chamfer and loft but have got nowhere!
Imagine three stacked cylinders. I want to modify the middle one by "pushing the top edge inwards" to produce a hypotenuse. I tried push pull, chamfer and loft but have got nowhere!
that very close to my method - if I want a stepped shaft, a shaft with groove sin etc, I sketch it all, and revolve it. Then if you need to adjust the position of the steps, the grooves etc, edit the sketch, and depending on how you dimension it, only one dimension to change. A much more experienced, now retired, colleague who has contracted since the mid-80's, insisted on stacked, extruded circles - meaning much more work if you adjusted anything . . . and quite often, parts that didn't fit when someone else doing the mod didn't spot the unintentional changes caused by adjusting the height of one of the cylinders.
ajlelectronics
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If I wasn't in the bath, I could wax lyrical. What I am doing is a model of a Seaflow 270 bilge blower.
www.seaflomarinerv.com
SEAFLO 4″ 270CFM In-Line Bilge Blower Fan 12V low noise fan blower for Marine mini fan-SEAFLO
STANDARD CONFIGURATIONSModelVoltageAir Flow (cfm/cmh)Max Draw (A)Fuse (A)Intake Pipe DiaPacking Size(mm)N.W./G.W. (kg)SFIB1-270-0212V270/4566.0A10.0A4"/102207*154*1140.70/0.90 kgSFIB2-270-0224V27
www.seaflomarinerv.com
So if we go by the standard idea of a hypotenuse being part of a right angle triangle, do we assume you created the cylinder from a cross-section sketch that had right angles at both ends, that you now want to be tapered like the transitions in that blower?If I wasn't in the bath, I could wax lyrical. What I am doing is a model of a Seaflow 270 bilge blower.
SEAFLO 4″ 270CFM In-Line Bilge Blower Fan 12V low noise fan blower for Marine mini fan-SEAFLO
STANDARD CONFIGURATIONSModelVoltageAir Flow (cfm/cmh)Max Draw (A)Fuse (A)Intake Pipe DiaPacking Size(mm)N.W./G.W. (kg)SFIB1-270-0212V270/4566.0A10.0A4"/102207*154*1140.70/0.90 kgSFIB2-270-0224V27
If so, then if its anything like the CAD I have used, the quickest way is to draw the new line in the cross section at the desired positon, trim the other lines back, or delete them.
Or remove the right angle constraints, changing the angles as needed, or changing the lenghts of the top and bottom of the cross section lines.
If you're trying to do it in the solid, then chamfer applied to the edge of the cylinder should do it - but you might need to position it in the history tree at the right place, before you stack another cylinder on top.
If you have simply extruded a cylinder from a circle, then chamfer should do it. Or you need to extrude between / loft between two circles of suitable diameters to get what you need - a flat topped cone.
Onoff
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Misterg
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There are many possible methods, but this is how I would model that sort of thing:
Create a sketch of the cross section of the cylindrical part and revolve it. Exploit the symmetry by placing the origin of your sketches in the centre of the part. If you add centre lines to the sketch, you can add dimensions as diameters, rather than radii (made up dimensions).
Sketch the middle part on the central plane
Extrude to meet the cylindrical part
Mirror about the central plane
Pretty up with fillets:
Shell it out:
etc.
Create a sketch of the cross section of the cylindrical part and revolve it. Exploit the symmetry by placing the origin of your sketches in the centre of the part. If you add centre lines to the sketch, you can add dimensions as diameters, rather than radii (made up dimensions).
Sketch the middle part on the central plane
Extrude to meet the cylindrical part
Mirror about the central plane
Pretty up with fillets:
Shell it out:
etc.
ajlelectronics
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Onoff
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My lad's designing something for me with this handle on in Fusion 360.
Going to print the handle separate and vertically on the bed then join to the main body with glue or a thread. As in vertically like this:
How though to get a knurled effect on the curved surfaces of the handle, any ideas? Thanks.
Going to print the handle separate and vertically on the bed then join to the main body with glue or a thread. As in vertically like this:
How though to get a knurled effect on the curved surfaces of the handle, any ideas? Thanks.
Do you want a diamond style knurl of the full surface? The diamonds would have to constantly vary in size with the constantly varying circumference, I would be interested in how that's done as I can't even imagine where to start.
I would personally just dot or dimple it as I know how to model that.
daedalusminos
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You can see the problem @tigdlo mentions when the pitch of the knurling is reduced it starts to affect the shape where the knurls cut into each other. These knurls start and finish perpendicular to the end faces so not like a true knurl but probably maintains the shape better.
Increasing the twist angle...
Increasing the twist angle...
