Fog 3 ton 4 post lift.

[Barking Mat]

That final post was a bit of a struggle, to say the least

Fail

Nearly...

Nearly...

Made up a lifting eye.

Hydraulics done, just needs filling.

Got the cables to attach and the pulleys, the electrics are wired up, motor turns. Probably the wrong way knowing me.

Had thé local garagist and his mate look over it. They're going to help me get the cables adjusted tomorrow.

And give it a safety check, the safety locking mechanism, clicks nicely Into place.

So far so good.

 

[Barking Mat]

Can't find the hydraulic oil.

Garagists said that or ATF, I know we've got loads of that to hand.

Anybody any comments on that, I'm all ears.

I'll flush and rinse the hydraulics, the goo which came out was black...

 

[m_c]

If you don't know what the manufacturer specified, either ATF or 32/46 hydraulic oil will work. It's not like the hydraulics work hard on a lift.

 

[James1979]

I imagine there will be plenty of 32 in your area? It’s used for almost everything on farms

 

[Barking Mat]

If you don't know what the manufacturer specified, either ATF or 32/46 hydraulic oil will work. It's not like the hydraulics work hard on a lift.

Thanks, that confirms what they said.

I imagine there will be plenty of 32 in your area? It’s used for almost everything on farms

Plenty here in the workshop, but can I find it? We've loads and loads of ATF, I can find.

 

[armalites]

When I got my 4 post I changed the oil and put ISO 32 in and it was ok but I found with a heavy car on it operated the crash valve when lowering. I have since switched ISO 22 and it works really well, it makes a difference in winter too.

My 2 post runs ISO 32 with no issues

 

[Barking Mat]

And finally ...

We have a slight leak on the seals.

But, looks like it unscrews.

Spent over an hour hunting electrical gremlins, but got them in the end.

 

[jmp49]

Hi, found this searching on the web. Ive got a manual for that because I think I have the same lift, but its in french... Ive attached it in case its of use.
Also can I ask if you can remember when you put the cables up, how bolt S in the below image attaches?
I've got to take off the sheeve furthest away from the master column (so bridging posts 3&4 end) that takes two cables because the top sheeve only seems to move about 4deg before it blocks solid and all the others are free. It feels free, then just hits something but I cant see or feel what its fouling on, so maybe a ball has collapsed inside the bearing or something. It has to come out to be inspected to find out.
I've taken out the grub screw at the side but I can't work out if "S" itself is supposed to unscrew, or you have to take the runway off and do something from above to get it out. Can you remember by any chance? The manual just mentions to put "S" in after threading the cables around the pulley, not if its threaded or just driven in and held by the grub screw. It has no head to grip, only two threaded holes where the grease nipples screw in.
It also doesn't show this pulley being extracted, only the main 4 sheeve one at the business end, but the pins have the same appearance.

I bought this ramp a few years ago and finally got to having a decent floor to use it, set to doing the posts and shimming them level etc, and now in the last stage I find this pulley is blocked when cabling it up finally.

 

[jmp49]

Also, in the manual for the 403, 404 & 411, it specifies the oil grade as 10/30, 10/40 or 10/50 engine oil depending on temperature of use. Strange for a hydraulic gear pump system but that's what it seems to say.
Lots of mention of the special fog grease for the cables too, because the anti fall mechanism relies on them not being too slippy I think.

 

[Barking Mat]

I'll get back to you this evening.

 

[Other Daniel]

@Barking Mat ,
I thought it was going to be installed at your place ?

 

[Barking Mat]

@Barking Mat ,
I thought it was going to be installed at your place ?

It will be, I just assembled it at work and changed the hydraulic flexible, made sure it worked.

Its currently in the garden.

Also, in the manual for the 403, 404 & 411, it specifies the oil grade as 10/30, 10/40 or 10/50 engine oil depending on temperature of use. Strange for a hydraulic gear pump system but that's what it seems to say.
Lots of mention of the special fog grease for the cables too, because the anti fall mechanism relies on them not being too slippy I think.

Anyway BTW, I put ATF in mine.

 

[Barking Mat]

Hi, found this searching on the web. Ive got a manual for that because I think I have the same lift, but its in french... Ive attached it in case its of use.
Also can I ask if you can remember when you put the cables up, how bolt S in the below image attaches?
I've got to take off the sheeve furthest away from the master column (so bridging posts 3&4 end) that takes two cables because the top sheeve only seems to move about 4deg before it blocks solid and all the others are free. It feels free, then just hits something but I cant see or feel what its fouling on, so maybe a ball has collapsed inside the bearing or something. It has to come out to be inspected to find out.
I've taken out the grub screw at the side but I can't work out if "S" itself is supposed to unscrew, or you have to take the runway off and do something from above to get it out. Can you remember by any chance? The manual just mentions to put "S" in after threading the cables around the pulley, not if its threaded or just driven in and held by the grub screw. It has no head to grip, only two threaded holes where the grease nipples screw in.
It also doesn't show this pulley being extracted, only the main 4 sheeve one at the business end, but the pins have the same appearance.

I bought this ramp a few years ago and finally got to having a decent floor to use it, set to doing the posts and shimming them level etc, and now in the last stage I find this pulley is blocked when cabling it up finally. View attachment 322238

Ok, I understand what you're asking.

When I bought mine the bed was already assembled.

Just the posts, and cables had been dismantled.

Seeing as it's on a trailer, I can't check.

The manual describes 's' as a goujon.

For me a goujon, is a threaded rod, like what you screw into a raw engine block to hold the air inlet manifold on or exhaust manifold.

An unthreaded peg, would be a goupille for me. A locking pin.

I'll try and have a peak, but it's nearly dark.

If you're really stuck, I could jack it up.

Have you a photo of 's' ?

 

[jmp49]

That's what I was hoping to get away with as same circumstances. The pulley might start to roll with the weight of a vehicle on the ramp tensioning the cable more but it jams when span by fingers & if it doesn't roll free, it will wreck the cable. I've greased both nipples on the end of "S" and its taking grease on both, but made no difference.

I think "S" could be threaded also and the allen grub screw through the side of the tube it fits into locks it from undo'ing in service rather than locking the pin, but I thought a goupile is usually split aka a roll pin and goujon can be both threaded or plain. I cant see how it would unscrew without a special tool which I'll have to make, a bit of solid hex bar with two pins welded in so it can be impacted out. The grub screw was loose when I came to it, so possibly a inherited issue that someone sold when the pin didn't shift & time will have just made things worse.

I can get the vehicle ramp off the traverse that holds the pulley with the forklift, it means having to pull all the cables back off the other sheeve, and disconnect the anti fall mechanism and hydraulic connection as it was in the final sprint to get it working but it is what it is.

Thanks for your help, I'll soak it with penetrating fluid this week to try help it whichever it is and attack at the weekend again.

 

[Barking Mat]

Hi, a goupille fendue is a split pin.

I would have thought the weight of the bed alone would be enough.

Can you lift it up, lock it, the inspect the cable runs, or is the roller ceased ?

 

[jmp49]

Yes, that's where it is now, on the 10th hole up, locked in place on the pillars by the sprung anti fall hooks with some steel cabinets under either end to make it safe if something released accidentally, but high enough to be able to scoot under with a wheeled stool to finish the install & see whats going on, with the cables lying under the corners next to the pillars. Cable 3&4 aren't in the pulley right now, but the other main pulleys in the system all spin freely by finger pressure including the one to make cable 3 change direction just below it.
I just lifted the 3&4 end up and pulled the hook release mechanism that end in case it deactivated something hidden also but no difference. I've stripped off all the bits to lift the ramp wheel runway off in the morning, maybe there's some more clues from above the pulleys hidden by the ramp bit that bolts over it. If nothing else it will let the penetrating oil dribble in better if there's access holes.

 

[jmp49]

Ok, I got it, well sort of. The pivot bolt is still in there stuck fast but I lifted the runway off like I said above, and there's no access to anything from above, just a solid plate with the bolt holes to hold the runway in it. But you can see better into the pulley assembly from the sides with it out the way, and I noticed there's a hole drilled in the pulley. So I dropped a bolt into the hole and used this to drift it round back and forth while dousing it with brake clean into the sides and after a few rotations it started to free off and rubbery black grease remains started to come out. After half a hour more its free, spins like its new and has no roughness so I've pumped it back full of grease and can get back to assembling it now.

 

[Barking Mat]

Good stuff.

I found the electrical connections going to the motor, weren't very tight, causing issues, I retightened all the connections.

Sorted.

Probably caused by a 100 km drive on a trailer.

Let us know how you get on with it.

I'm still waiting for the magic of concrete floors to arrive.

One day...

 

[jmp49]

Got it all together, all the way up and down a few times testing with a light load after lots of slackening of unions and bleeding as it was stored dry for a few years, it lightly crapped the main hydraulic seal on initial prime up same as yours but using hvb46. I left it a day and now something has got lubricated and its sealing fine. Ive seen dry cylinders put back into service do this a few times before and be ok after a day wet but I'll keep a eye on it.
To set the ropes, I put them through into the clamps to the spec in the book (20cm irrc) but then the ramp wouldn't fully lower to the floor. So I just lowered it down, slackened it off one corner at a time and loosened that corner then let it settle down to floor level on that corner on a jack then nipped up the clamps again, then once all four were done, lifted it to between post notches so it hung on the ropes rather than the post locators & fine levelled it using the pulley adjusters so it lifts evenly.
For electrical I just checked the wiring that was there and the earthing, then made sure the motor went the way round shown in the manual once it came on as its 3ph. The Up button doesn't latch in the switch but I'll use it with my finger on it, seems safer that way.
I just have the "parachute" rods to put in and the moving runway clamps to fit then I can start using it.

 

[Barking Mat]

Got it all together, all the way up and down a few times testing with a light load after lots of slackening of unions and bleeding as it was stored dry for a few years, it lightly crapped the main hydraulic seal on initial prime up same as yours but using hvb46. I left it a day and now something has got lubricated and its sealing fine. Ive seen dry cylinders put back into service do this a few times before and be ok after a day wet but I'll keep a eye on it.
To set the ropes, I put them through into the clamps to the spec in the book (20cm irrc) but then the ramp wouldn't fully lower to the floor. So I just lowered it down, slackened it off one corner at a time and loosened that corner then let it settle down to floor level on that corner on a jack then nipped up the clamps again, then once all four were done, lifted it to between post notches so it hung on the ropes rather than the post locators & fine levelled it using the pulley adjusters so it lifts evenly.
For electrical I just checked the wiring that was there and the earthing, then made sure the motor went the way round shown in the manual once it came on as its 3ph. The Up button doesn't latch in the switch but I'll use it with my finger on it, seems safer that way.
I just have the "parachute" rods to put in and the moving runway clamps to fit then I can start using it.

How's your ramps doing three years later ?

Mine's still sat on a trailer awaiting magic concrete fairies.