flat welds

[snowcat]

How come you are a fan of 6013's FJ? Not a rod normally favoured by pipewelders, especially for positionals....

yep the guy I used to help out would swear by 7018s for caps on pipe (he also swore about lots of other things), i find control on em hard myself and have to run em at 80V.......... I know many guys love the fleetwelds for roots (6010s)....... I must say the pen on them is awesome.

 

[flange jockey]

spot on snowy,and that may just be puddles small prob,heavier land needed.f/j

 

[snowcat]

spot on snowy,and that may just be puddles small prob,heavier land needed.f/j

Do you increase your arc length with the 6013s then F/J when coming up into 1g, to compensate for the increase in amps needed from say the 3g position???? something like a fleetweld would keep burning whatever

 

[Welderpaul]

All the pictures you have shown FJ are 'loose' items i.e they can be turned whilst welding - either rolled or on a manipulator. None are part of a fixed installation.
It must be hard to resist the temptation to weld everything in 1g, I know i would prefer to weld downhand stood at a bench rather than scratting about on the floor doing verts and overheads..

 

[flange jockey]

paul this is true and not true,take puddles problem, he is having problems in that position on root.you guys really havent given me much of a chance to let you get to know me,i do now and again weld in fixed position,its just the very nature of this kind of butt makes it impossible to get a root shot.now as regards rolling a butt where possible,if you are under 40 i recommend you practice positional in the shop every chance you get paul,but if like me you are slightly overthen i really isn,t worth the pain.just the ones that are hard to roll.f/j

 

[Puddles]

take puddles problem, he is having problems in that position on root.

I would have bet big money I’d have trouble with the overhead, never in a millions years would I’ve thought of having problems with the flat.
Last time I had problems with flat welding I was in knickerbockers!

 

[snowcat]

I dont think pauls haveing a go F/J as yer welds are very good whatever, more curious like I am to know why you'ed **** round doing positionals on losse work, I can understand maybe say 3-12 so your running verts, but overheads??? on the bench????, It would be like me ducking under plate and welding the back of the butt, I always make life as easy for myself as posible, which is why I have a hoist and fork truck to put stuff just as I want it

 

[flange jockey]

snowy,i wasn,t thinking anyone was having a go why would they.if you take a look at one of your previous posts on this thread,you mention you have trouble in at the top of the pipe as does puddles,well i find this the hardest part as well.i would just as soon go 5g ,this saves me 2 awkward quarters,hell i weld for a living, you got to get down and dirty now and again. fj

 

[Puddles]

Little better luck today with the top section, not perfect by a long shot! But I can see improvements.

3/32-inch, (2.5mm) gap, with 1/8-inch, (3.5mm) land, made a lot of difference!

 

[Wozzaaah]

Very nice Puddles .

 

[Puddles]

Thank you Wozzaah!

Almost got it today! Maybe about 90 % of the root would pass, what do you think f/j?

 

[flange jockey]

it would be a hard nosed qc to knock that root back,beauty.you really do have a good touch puddles.

 

[Puddles]

Thanks f/j!

This is the most pipe I’ve welded in 20-years!
Far as I can remember something like what the red arrow is pointing to would send me and my lunch box to the parking lot. The green arrows…… Would only pass if the inspector liked me, and or they needed people desperately!

 

[flange jockey]

puddles its only a matter of time before you iron out those little problems,i have a feeling you are pushing in at the end of each rod,thus the droop?i must say i picked your post up on the hobart site well done you.our welders were working on the mainland last week,this gave me a chance to use 6010 for root passes.just another thought that may help,use bridge tacks these will do away with tie ins and help you keep a more uniform bead. fj

 

[Drains]

f/j, what do you mean by "tie-in"?

 

[matt1978]

Tie in has 2 meanings when talkin about pipe welding...........it can mean the last pipe to be welded to the original structure (or tied in) which means the pipe fabrication which was made in the fab shop and usually all the joints can be turned whilst welding to make it easier (eg 9 0'clock till 12 o'clock, stop and then rotate the pipe and carry on) then the last butt weld which "Ties" the pre fab into the main system has to be done in position.

Or what I think F/J means is if you use Bullet tacks, (A kind of bridge tack that does not interfere with the root prep) they can be ground away prior to welding past them and is much easier to maintain a uniform weld bead for the root as opposed to using root tacks, which have to be incorporated into the root run or (tied in).....this way requires more skill..........and incidently if your talking about coded pipe work, the guy (or girl sparkey ) making the root tacks should also be coded to the same standard as the guy who is going to weld the actual job. If the tacker/plater does not have a coding for the job, then they should only use Bullet or Bridge tacks as they are not allowed to interfere with the root.

 

[Drains]

Nice answer Matt. Cheers.

While I'm asking, can you also suggest why Hollywood, Major Tom et al, over on UKW, would have an objection to 3Rs suggestion of starting a rod somewhere else to heat it, then striking on a butt test weld... They slag, but they don't say why (and i'm not going to ask!)
http://www.ukwelder.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=6800&pid=54580&st=0&#entry54580

 

[matt1978]

I dunno, there a funny bunch over there constantly looking for someone to belittle

All I can think of is your doing coded pipe work your not supposed to strike up on the Butt plates or pipe itself as its classed as a defect if its not totally ground clean before submitting it for testing, you are supposed to strike the rod, inside the weld prep........also to be fair I have not heard of people striking the rod welding 30 mm to "warm it up" on a test piece but thats not to say that method doesn't work for him and I certainly wouldn't slag him for saying it

 

[flange jockey]

matt as simon says, pardon the pun, a very clear answer. its the tack tie ins. as you mentioned, bridge tacks and bullets are what i prefer,if im not tacking the butt, heres a few pics.

 

[runnach]

it would be a hard nosed qc to knock that root back,beauty.you really do have a good touch puddles.

Have to agree with the above statement puddles, good stuff my man. you know yourself a bit excessive just past the 3 o-clock, this is you moving into the problematic area. the green arrow area, possibly insufficient feathering back the root? Or speed of travel too fast? Certainly from my take of your pics, you have caught both root edges very well, be surprised if any cracking appeared if cutting coupons for root bend tests, thus said, I have tested a few that looked ok, to find lack of fusion to one side or another, are you cutting out coupons to test the root?

To another point in this thread, I thought it was just me that ached from welding positional stuff!!! I'm trying to move my lads to doing one 6G test, instead of 2G & 5G. Makes for less paperwork and an early visit to the pub. Still aching at the end tho!