Educate me on chainsaws

[prepman]

Just looking for a photo for another thread and thought this one be appropriate on this thread, I have a couple of the engines in the pic and I know the green one weighs the best part of 30kg on it's own, guessing the chainsaw and frame must be another 10kg, wouldn't fancy waving that lot about all day!

View attachment 324059

The largest is more like a handheld sawmill.

 

[James1979]

Why would you want to ? You can't cut round corners..



Big saws have decompression buttons so you don't get snatch back. Even small saws snatch on compression that's why drop starting can be risky.

You wouldn’t. I just found that you can’t due to the forces involved that’s all.

I’ve never used a decompression valve. They are a pain in the hole. They sometimes don’t seal and then you get a lean running saw. I put plugs in where I can.

 

[andymfell]

@8ob , @Migmac, @James1979 , I am looking for a chain brake /side cover assembly, for my brothers ,Johnsered 630 , chainsaw. He reckons the same saw was available as a Husqvarna , but doesn't know which model. Would any one , be able to confirm this?
Thanks

the equivalent husqvarna models are Husqvarna 61/ Rancher/ Practica/ 66/ 162/ 266/ 268/ 272xp/ Jonsereds 625/ 630/ 670 (all variants) edit ( I missed 8ob s initial reply )

the part number for the complete jonsered chainbrake assy is 503600002 which is NLA

the husqvarna 61 chainbrake 503736601 which is a current part (just orange rather than red)

 

[fizzy]

Does anyone out there use cooking oil for blade lube?
I have used it for years. Dirt cheap - eco friendly. Comes in handy 1L bottles. Easy to get.
Only 1 drawback I have found. If you leave the saw for a couple of weeks it gums up solid. Do NOT try to start it. Spray with WD40 and wearing thick gloves pull the chain around by hand until it is free.. Simple.

 

[plewlandsbob]

the equivalent husqvarna models are Husqvarna 61/ Rancher/ Practica/ 66/ 162/ 266/ 268/ 272xp/ Jonsereds 625/ 630/ 670 (all variants) edit ( I missed 8ob s initial reply )

the part number for the complete jonsered chainbrake assy is 503600002 which is NLA

the husqvarna 61 chainbrake 503736601 which is a current part (just orange rather than red)

That is fantastic, thank you , very much. I will have a look online for one later. Thanks for all your help

 

[Lewis_RX8]

Does anyone out there use cooking oil for blade lube?
I have used it for years. Dirt cheap - eco friendly. Comes in handy 1L bottles. Easy to get.
Only 1 drawback I have found. If you leave the saw for a couple of weeks it gums up solid. Do NOT try to start it. Spray with WD40 and wearing thick gloves pull the chain around by hand until it is free.. Simple.

We had a tree that needed pruned , Had to use eco friendly chain oil like you say I presume to stop killing the tree with petroleum based stuff but I would imagine what B and Q labelled as environmentally friendly oil was just veg oil or simillar.

 

[Migmac]

Does anyone out there use cooking oil for blade lube?
I have used it for years. Dirt cheap - eco friendly. Comes in handy 1L bottles. Easy to get.
Only 1 drawback I have found. If you leave the saw for a couple of weeks it gums up solid. Do NOT try to start it. Spray with WD40 and wearing thick gloves pull the chain around by hand until it is free.. Simple.

Used it the odd time but always felt hungry. When I was working saws daily I would buy a 205L barrel of chain oil, a lot cheaper than buying by the litre or 25litre.

 

[MCKDAVID]

Does anyone out there use cooking oil for blade lube?
I have used it for years. Dirt cheap - eco friendly. Comes in handy 1L bottles. Easy to get.
Only 1 drawback I have found. If you leave the saw for a couple of weeks it gums up solid. Do NOT try to start it. Spray with WD40 and wearing thick gloves pull the chain around by hand until it is free.. Simple.

for what the proper stuff costs, hardly worth the bother using anything else, dedicated oil is designed to lubricate the chain, and has better "non flinging" properties so chains lasts longer etc...... especially for most "domestic" users, a litre bottle will probably do years..... different if you're working them daily, then as @Migmac and @8ob buying in industrial quantities makes more sense.

 

[fizzy]

for what the proper stuff costs, hardly worth the bother using anything else, dedicated oil is designed to lubricate the chain, and has better "non flinging" properties so chains lasts longer etc...... especially for most "domestic" users, a litre bottle will probably do years..... different if you're working them daily, then as @Migmac and @8ob buying in industrial quantities makes more sense.

I used to buy 25L of proper chain oil. A messy job decanting into smaller bottles.
Cooking oil is around £1 per litre and so easy to find.
I am not a commercial user but used to go through about 40 tons of logs a year - quite a lot! Chains and bars last me forever even using cooking oil. It probably runs out quicker in summer as it becomes quite thin.
A mate of mine is a chainsaw carver - does some incredible work. He uses baby oil - yes honestly

 

[dobbslc]

This is good stuff...

It's funny but the bottles don't come like this anymore

 

[pedrobedro]

I’ve never used a decompression valve. They are a pain in the hole.

They are there to ease the stress on the starter gear not only for the operator convenience. You can knacker the starting dogs on big saws by not using them. Even my MS460 is a pig to pull over if I don't use the sissy button.

 

[MCKDAVID]

They are there to ease the stress on the starter gear not only for the operator convenience. You can knacker the starting dogs on big saws by not using them. Even my MS460 is a pig to pull over if I don't use the sissy button.

never had a problem starting any of them, don't use the decom either, even on the bigger saws. My own personal day to day saw is the MS390, it's had the decompressor since new, never been used.... no need, maybe it's just technique, or just my extra weight helping.... hahahaah

 

[8ob]

This is good stuff...
View attachment 324081
It's funny but the bottles don't come like this anymore

We once dressed up a 45 gallon barrel of chain oil to be sexy

 

[James1979]

They are there to ease the stress on the starter gear not only for the operator convenience. You can knacker the starting dogs on big saws by not using them. Even my MS460 is a pig to pull over if I don't use the sissy button.

I’ve never seen a knackered starter dog through that even on the big saws. They rarely break to be honest.

@8ob do they still sell that oil with nudie birds on the bottle?

 

[8ob]

I’ve never seen a knackered starter dog through that even on the big saws. They rarely break to be honest.

@8ob do they still sell that oil with nudie birds on the bottle?

There were complaints about it and they stopped selling it about six years ago, yet more PC bull

Bob

 

[daleyd]

If you go into a chainsaw-mongers do they not have them hanging up on a card, like the old packs of kp nuts in a pub - slowly revealing the picture as you buy more oil?

 

[Tinbasherdan]

As mentioned the jonsered 625 and 630 are built on the husky 61 bottom end. I’ve just put a 272xp barrel and piston on my 625 and it’s thoroughly angry now

 

[Migmac]

If you go into a chainsaw-mongers do they not have them hanging up on a card, like the old packs of kp nuts in a pub - slowly revealing the picture as you buy more oil?

Yep, right next to the box of flirty files

 

[prepman]

I used to buy 25L of proper chain oil. A messy job decanting into smaller bottles.
Cooking oil is around £1 per litre and so easy to find.
I am not a commercial user but used to go through about 40 tons of logs a year - quite a lot! Chains and bars last me forever even using cooking oil. It probably runs out quicker in summer as it becomes quite thin.
A mate of mine is a chainsaw carver - does some incredible work. He uses baby oil - yes honestly

I used cooking oil until the rats ate through the tank (really hard thick plastic). Back on the evil thick stuff now.

 

[8ob]

I used cooking oil until the rats ate through the tank (really hard thick plastic). Back on the evil thick stuff now.

Its only a gear oil with a tacking agent mixed into it, you can get summer and winter grades. Not really needed in the south but the northereners probably switch grades for winter use.

Bob