James1979
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Some of us just get away with reinforced welliesBlimey, my knob is at risk, I'm off to buy some chainsaw trousers.![]()

Some of us just get away with reinforced welliesBlimey, my knob is at risk, I'm off to buy some chainsaw trousers.![]()
I certainly agree with that. Yes care is essential or just get the missus to to do the dangerous bits. 8-]Be interesting to know how many of those injured were professionals vs diy market. It’ll be a bit skewed as there’s pros and people who are paid to do it. Also, a lot of people who work in that environment don’t run to hospital with every scratch so it won’t be an accurate reflection but interesting none the less.
Stihl are very powerful in Germany and a lot of the EU chainsaw regs came from Germany which was influenced by stihl. They actively don’t seek stats of pro vs diy as it will affect the possibility of selling to a diy market. I was told at a dealer a while back. They sort of self regulate in the hope they’ll get left alone.
As for bar size. A bar will do a tree of 2 1/2 times bar length if you know what you’re doing with it
That is scary.The big saws like the 880 have the same gyro worse than a 9” grinder. When you put power on you can’t turn it from vertical very easily.
Had a look at the statistics on an HSE site and the details are a big difficult to quantify. Few fatalities, most injuries to upper body (no surprise there) and caused by falling branches or kick-back and pull-in. So yes that means at any elevation. My saw is only 10" and tends to stall if jammed. Had chain come off guide lots of times when jammed. However some of the larger saws would be lethal when your talking 24" and up. One other thing is risk levels change when a 2nd person is involved. A 'helper' can often be the opposite. My trees are from bush size to >30ft 12" dia +. But a 10 inch saw used carefully can cope.
I appreciate that. Fortunately I've either been careful or lucky over the last 30yrs.Don’t be fooled, all saws can be dangerous regardless of bar lengths. As said using the proper techniques you can cut 2 1/2 times the bar length. What is scary is being the second man on a two man saw, not a nice experience
I’ll go for carefulI appreciate that. Fortunately I've either been careful or lucky over the last 30yrs.
@8ob , @Migmac, @James1979 , I am looking for a chain brake /side cover assembly, for my brothers ,Johnsered 630 , chainsaw. He reckons the same saw was available as a Husqvarna , but doesn't know which model. Would any one , be able to confirm this?
Thanks
They are the same but different,basic engine parts interchange but I am not sure on the external plastics. That range of jonsered are loosely based on the husky 266, 268 272
Bob
Without a doubt. Only dealt with one myself but it was the most unpredicable thing with all kinds of tension, compression, torsion. Every cut i made it'd move in a different way, twist and shift. Nerve wracking, but interesting none the less.
Beast of a saw! The big ones can have a habit of snatching the starter back if you don't fully commit when getting them going.
My 3120 isn't that loud, the 70cc 572 on the other hand is 120dB and bloody deafening!
Oooh! Tell us more!
The big saws like the 880 have the same gyro worse than a 9” grinder. When you put power on you can’t turn it from vertical very easily.
Moose McAlpine said:Beast of a saw! The big ones can have a habit of snatching the starter back if you don't fully commit when getting them going.
Big saws have decompression buttons so you don't get snatch back. Even small saws snatch on compression that's why drop starting can be risky.
Don’t think I have ever used a decompressor in my life, I pull them slightly over tdc and just go for it.
Bob