Educate me on chainsaws

[Tinbasherdan]

Pardon our interruption...

www.ebay.co.uk

Unfortunately the 621 is a domed piston not a flat top, those kits don’t work too well

 

[pedrobedro]

Just a shame I can’t get a new piston for it to freshen it up again

If the piston is not scored you only need new rings and only then if the compression is low.

 

[Tinbasherdan]

If the piston is not scored you only need new rings and only then if the compression is low.

It’s not in the rudest of health

 

[Moose McAlpine]

Unfortunately the 621 is a domed piston not a flat top, those kits don’t work too well

It looks slightly domed in the pic. Could be worth contacting them to check or get a better picture? Says it's for a 621 specifically.

Alternatively:

Jonsered 621 Vintage Chainsaw. SPARE PARTS ONLY - CHAIN OILER NOT WORKING | eBay

56cc Engine. I was told the Jonsered 621 chainsaw was a difficult starter and was not oiling. After fitting the parts listed above the saw does start and run and appears to start easily. The chain oiler is not working / barely working with just a drop of oil appearing now and then.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[Ross365]

This is a real bargain for someone https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32472652...,osub=osub,crd=crd,segname=segname,chnl=mkcid

 

[Tinbasherdan]

Thread revival.... I said my 625 was misbehaving and due a piston at the least. It got one but the barrel was a bit tatty. The search began and ended pretty quickly with no one making 625 cylinders any more. Fortunately, in my digging I discovered the 625 uses a husky bottom end, and a 272xp barrel fits right on.

One kit later and it’s now jumped 10cc, and sounds a whole lot angrier. And it cuts bloody well

 

[zzr1200]

If you have a separate clutch and chain drive ring style clutch assembly, try an eight pin drive ring.
Then it will be fast...

 

[8ob]

The Mericun’s are big into faster chain speeds and frigging with sprocket diameters, the only problem is chain length and remembering that chain length reference stamped on the bar could be wrong.

Bob

 

[zzr1200]

Oooh! Tell us more!

Sorry for the length of time to answer totally forgot.

I have the following in the stable:

Husky 338xpt 13" bar....
nice little top handle saw needs a larger fuel tank. Hasn't seen much use probably isnt fully run in yet.

Husky 42
15" bar.....I've had this saw for almost 30 years, its done loads of work.
Its had a new fuel line, a pile of chains, clutch drums, a few bars and servicing. A wonderful little saw.

Husky 372xp 15"/20"/28"bar options, atm its wearing a 15" bar with an 8 pin drive ring, cuts like a beast for a 70cc saw.

And finally my oldest saw...

Echo CS 900 EVL 36" bar full skip 3/8 chain.
The saw was first used in the hurricane of 1987.
I purchased the saw second hand in 1988, from the local garden machinery dealers who hired out stuff (Litton Bros of Upminster) and were the local chainsaw agents..
So it's fairly well guaranteed it didnt have an easy life to start with, but it's still a great saw, heavy but well made.

 

[zzr1200]

The Mericun’s are big into faster chain speeds and frigging with sprocket diameters, the only problem is chain length and remembering that chain length reference stamped on the bar could be wrong.

Bob

This true but upping by 1 pin is ok on the 372 still run a standard drive link chain, although you can get 10 pin rings.....screaming chain speed.

 

[pedrobedro]

Upping the sprocket size drops the torque as well. Saws like MS660 need an extra drive link on bigger bars if you go to 8 pin rim sprocket, they are alright for bling but for cutting firewood they are a bit over the top.

 

[zzr1200]

but for cutting firewood they are a bit over the top.

A firewood saw doesn't really need to be any bigger than 50cc.

My Husky 42 is my favourite for firewood, nice and light, easy to use.

 

[stevethegrease]

I'll echo what everyone else says - they are dangerous things and not toys.
Buy a decent hand saw or an axe...
IF you must have one just for this job electric is the way to go (meaning mains not cordless - spend the difference on PPE)
If you put a rough location in your profile you might even have got an offer of assistance / tuition

I'll just reiterate what our training instructer said when I started my apprenticeship " These machines , lads, are designed to cut metal ( insert 'trees' here) , they cut meat even better."

 

[prepman]

how many do you have to do? one, or two not worth dicking about spending out..... if you have a load to do aye maybe, but if it's just one or two, 8" diameter is well within the realms of a hand saw.. or if you want to use the recip, just cut it from both sides, in wedges, then cut through finally. Axe, isn't that difficult either.

Avoid chainsaws if you can, especially if you've never used one, and probably have no great need later. There's nothing particular onerous about them, you just need to know the safety sides of things, always have a healthy respect for what damage they can do, and plan ahead with lots of common sense, but if you can avoid them all the better. The saw proposed by james would be through it before you have a chainsaw fueled, sharpened and oiled...

Perfectly true. I having a lot of trees. Estimated at 500 or so. I gave up the petrol one's as when they're laid up over winter don't seem to want to start. My Makita is fine. Most accidents I believe (could be wrong and often am) are people using whilst climbing trees or working of ladders. At ground level with proper care and sensible footwear and gear they're not an issue. For lopping branches I use my chained lopper. Almost impossible to injury oneself with that and you CAN legal hire one.

 

[Migmac]

Perfectly true. I having a lot of trees. Estimated at 500 or so. I gave up the petrol one's as when they're laid up over winter don't seem to want to start. My Makita is fine. Most accidents I believe (could be wrong and often am) are people using whilst climbing trees or working of ladders. At ground level with proper care and sensible footwear and gear they're not an issue. For lopping branches I use my chained lopper. Almost impossible to injury oneself with that and you CAN legal hire one.

Most chainsaw accidents I’ve seen/heard about have been on the ground. A mixture of trained and untrained operators. Trained ones being overly confident and the untrained ones, just that untrained.

 

[8ob]

Most chainsaw accidents I’ve seen/heard about have been on the ground. A mixture of trained and untrained operators. Trained ones being overly confident and the untrained ones, just that untrained.

True, even a hammer can become lethal in the hands of someone like Mr Sutcliffe.

Bob

 

[prepman]

Most chainsaw accidents I’ve seen/heard about have been on the ground. A mixture of trained and untrained operators. Trained ones being overly confident and the untrained ones, just that untrained.

Had a look at the statistics on an HSE site and the details are a big difficult to quantify. Few fatalities, most injuries to upper body (no surprise there) and caused by falling branches or kick-back and pull-in. So yes that means at any elevation. My saw is only 10" and tends to stall if jammed. Had chain come off guide lots of times when jammed. However some of the larger saws would be lethal when your talking 24" and up. One other thing is risk levels change when a 2nd person is involved. A 'helper' can often be the opposite. My trees are from bush size to >30ft 12" dia +. But a 10 inch saw used carefully can cope.

 

[James1979]

Had a look at the statistics on an HSE site and the details are a big difficult to quantify. Few fatalities, most injuries to upper body (no surprise there) and caused by falling branches or kick-back and pull-in. So yes that means at any elevation. My saw is only 10" and tends to stall if jammed. Had chain come off guide lots of times when jammed. However some of the larger saws would be lethal when your talking 24" and up. One other thing is risk levels change when a 2nd person is involved. A 'helper' can often be the opposite. My trees are from bush size to >30ft 12" dia +. But a 10 inch saw used carefully can cope.

Be interesting to know how many of those injured were professionals vs diy market. It’ll be a bit skewed as there’s pros and people who are paid to do it. Also, a lot of people who work in that environment don’t run to hospital with every scratch so it won’t be an accurate reflection but interesting none the less.

Stihl are very powerful in Germany and a lot of the EU chainsaw regs came from Germany which was influenced by stihl. They actively don’t seek stats of pro vs diy as it will affect the possibility of selling to a diy market. I was told at a dealer a while back. They sort of self regulate in the hope they’ll get left alone.

As for bar size. A bar will do a tree of 2 1/2 times bar length if you know what you’re doing with it

 

[brewdexta]

As for bar size. A bar will do a tree of 2 1/2 times bar length if you know what you’re doing with it

Blimey, my knob is at risk, I'm off to buy some chainsaw trousers.

 

[prepman]

Blimey, my knob is at risk, I'm off to buy some chainsaw trousers.

Brown ones.