- Thread starter Onoff
- Start date
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,227
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
when there was no ventilation the wet loose earth floor underneath never dried out and never caused a problem, as soon as airflow was introduced the humid air condensed under the beams and boards as it was warm above .i damp proofed the walls in the room that was a seperate issue and cleaned out the cavity as it was bridging up past the dpc
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,661
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Never knew you could get glue remover!
SWMBO, as is her want was moaning, as I was working that "it's cold". I wedged a bit of pipe insulation in there as a bit of an excluder.....forgot the foam was wet!
I was going to foam that length of pipe insulation in then cut it flush. Not exactly a cavity closer but that should be ok d'you think?
On the bathroom window I did similar a while back. Packed the cavity with EPS. Then screeded over it. I lined the reveal with DPM then stuck on Gypliner insulated board 27mm insulation + 12.5mm pb.
Behind that rendered reveal is wrinkly tin as a cavity closer!
Draught free now:
Edward Teach
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 997
- Location
- South West England
You want one of these
Razor Blade Scraper
Stanley Window Scraper
Heavy duty professional scraper for removal of paint, glue and debris. Brass push button with a retractable blade for safety in between periods of use.Includes rectangular blade (high carbon steel blade)Great for window cleaners, painters, decorators and DIY and enthusiasts alike. Sale will be...
www.toolstation.com
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,661
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
Like putting a sticking plaster on a broken limb this is! Cold air is blowing through where the pen is pointing. No doubt it's coming from the cavity in part through imperfect mortar joints. No parge coat etc.
Reckon I'd be best pricing it all up and getting my mates down who'd offered to blitz it with me for a beery barbecue.
Anyway, that's enough for tonight, I've got to go photograph a cow.....
Reckon I'd be best pricing it all up and getting my mates down who'd offered to blitz it with me for a beery barbecue.
Anyway, that's enough for tonight, I've got to go photograph a cow.....
JMS1972
Member
- Messages
- 1,209
- Location
- NW Leicestershire, UK
Yes. The rule of thumb with diagonal cracks is put a 90 square along the crack and the square points down to where the problem is (perpendicular to crack).
That's pointing straight at the black pipe so obvious culprit would be damp ground caused by bad drains.
You'd need to dig it out to be sure but that's what my money is on.
I've seen similar in a recent new build!
brightspark
Member
- Messages
- 41,227
- Location
- yarm stockton on tees
2 legged or four
gaz1
Member
- Messages
- 20,124
- Location
- westyorkshire
if your going to rip all that boading off then upgrade to the insulated stuff and leave it venting behind the wood
Onoff
In the land of the unfinished project I am King!
- Messages
- 12,661
- Location
- Sevenoaks, UK
2 legged or four
Funny you should say that, very apt.
Row with SWMBO so didn't feel like going to the pub. Then I did. Went and turned back when I got there. Too many people. Car park was rammed.
(Not that I was driving in case anyone wondered).
They are really really good at putting lots of little grooves, or lines, in plastic window frames, about the width of a razor blade . . .You want one of these
Razor Blade Scraper
Stanley Window Scraper
Heavy duty professional scraper for removal of paint, glue and debris. Brass push button with a retractable blade for safety in between periods of use.Includes rectangular blade (high carbon steel blade)Great for window cleaners, painters, decorators and DIY and enthusiasts alike. Sale will be...
As proven on nearly every window in this house
Has the same around a doorframe of an internal cavity wall - it used to be an external wall, but the place was extended before it was first sold in the early 70's. Open under the floor, and at the top under the roof . . . if there was a good frost, or light snow, there was a nice clear stripe up each side of the roof . . . The wall was acting as a nice heat exhanger for the radiator mounted on it - warmed the air in it, it rose up out the top, thawing the roof, dragging more cold air in the bottom.
Paid to have the cavity insulated - companies were incredulous I was going to actually pay, rather than claim it somewhere . . . several years later, no draught around the door, no clear lines over roof . . . and a line of 1" filled holes in two lines along the wall . . . I've not got round to refinishing or wall papering that wall yet . . .after a while, you don't see them . . . but you can see visitors wondering . . .
Edward Teach
pre-moderated
- Messages
- 997
- Location
- South West England
It's all 'in the way', you use your toolThey are really really good at putting lots of little grooves, or lines, in plastic window frames, about the width of a razor blade . . .
As proven on nearly every window in this house
Gareth J
Member
- Messages
- 3,673
- Location
- North Cornwall
Sorry, but this isn't good advice. Insulated plasterboard can help add a useful extra layer of insulation on top of existing insulation but if you leave it venting behind it, it'll be essentially the ONLY layer of insulation, not to mention have naff all thermal mass. At 25, 50 or whatever mm of foam, that'll probably be an improvement on the current situation, but it shouldn't be the goal. Goal should be to get the inside skin sealed so that it, and whatever insulation in the cavity can start working, then add more insulation wherever most appropriate. In this case, my gut feeling would be blown EPS followed by ideall EWI or, potentially a careful layer of IWI.
Google "plasterboard tent". Insulated plasterboard will be an improvement but the target should be a lot more insulation than you can get on the back of sheets of plasterboard.
