Isn't the 4hp 200L one in your price range if you use a voucher?
Fair point, I'll give them a call tonight to see what they have in stock
I looked at that one but it says it needs a 40 amp supply, I'm getting a 30 amp supply fitted to my barn which will have a separate fuse box to the house but not sure whether 40 amp can be supplied by it, will have to find out
The 40 amp is just to cover the startup surge, you may get away with a 30A supply, but then you won't have any spare capacity if you want to run something else at the same time, eg plasma cutter.
I'll probably stick with a 30 amp machine then because I'm hoping to get a plasma cutter in the future, I do have a smaller compressor I could link up if I ever need more cfm anyway
My mate had a similar problem with his supply what we did was have two pumps on one tank, when the control wanted air the one pump started, then the second was on a 10second delay so that the massive inrush was reduced. but he got the required CFM.
I have an SE16. It's on a 32AMP feed of it's own. It draws upwards of 20AMP on start up but will run on 13A. If you drain and open the tank on start up it will run but clearly this isn't ideal. It's a good compressor, keeps up with most things. It's a bit loud , I have it on the rubber feet and they made no difference. you can just about talk whilst stood next to it running. Machine MArt are always sending me VAT free voucher codes, pretty sure I have one valid now if you want it ?. I'm sure if you ask for the VAT free discount they'll just give it to you.
daz1968 gave me a vat free voucher but thanks for the offer, should be picking it up tonight! supply won't be a problem since I'm getting 32amp fitted for my welder, just need to finish digging the trench to lay the cable, tip about the 10 second delay sounds handy cheers!
The simplest way to get a delay is to stagger the switch-on pressures at the pressure switches.
That makes sense cheers, any more tips on copper gaskets? I guess technically it will void my warranty but if I ever have any problems I can just put the paper one back in? What would be the reason for extra gasket on the inlet? Cooling? As surely it would restrict air flow?
I wouldn't change a gasket for the sake of it. If you're getting the SE16 it has a cast iron head so gasket problems shouldn't be an issue.
Fair enough then, it is the SE16 and probably won't be getting too heavier use either, would just rather take the precautions earlier to make it last but by the sounds of it it should be fine for the amount I'm going to be using it, cheers for the advice
Yeah it was just my idea for the top gasket to help keep the temp down as the inlet chamber is massive, and leaving the copper gasket to stick into the chamber will not restrict it in any way, the gasket is very thin in the width dept at that point, that is where the segment blow out towards the inlet side, it just means that it gives the gasket a little more lateral strength and is easier to cut and the copper will be in the cool inlet air and that would transmit that coolness through the gasket into the body and the head block interphase.
I have got one of these pumps stripped here at the moment what tends to happen is the gasket starts to blow the pump cannot achieve the pressure to switch off so it just pumps but with 5-6 people using it, nobody realises that it should have stopped and it gets hotter and hotter till the pistons seize.
Just checked, the SE16 does have an ally head.
the copper will be in the cool inlet air and that would transmit that coolness through the gasket into the body and the head block interphase.
But the heat from the head/block will be transferred back into the top of the cylinder via the gasket, so I don't see what you gain.
Making the gasket oversize so it sticks out of the perimeter of the head may help.
To be honest if you want more cooling rig up an extra fan (I used an 8" one), but make sure the airflow doesn't conflict with the airflow from the fan incorporated in the pump pulley/flywheel.
Oh okay makes sense! In that case since it will only being used by me I should notice if the pump is staying on and if the gasket does blow i can replace it with copper at that point to hopefully avoid it happening again, thanks for explaining.
Where does it say about the ally head? Either way from what people have said I don't think I should have any problems with it, just need to get my 30 amp supply finished so I can try it out now
PS Machine mart only exchanged one of the pumps and said the third one would have to be sent back to the manufacturer for engineers report would be 3 weeks so the guy couldnt wait for that length of time (mot ramp etc) bought another which did the same thats when I stepped in having repaired them before. It was sorted in a few hrs honed the cyl freed the rings etc.
I just nipped out and checked it with a magnet.
Hopefully I'll notice the pump not switching off before it goes that far but cheers for the heads up
You obviously haven't had any gasket problems on yours then? I don't think I'm going to have a problem with my use of it but if I do I'll give this copper gasket a go
no it wont the gasket blows between the inlet and the pressure side the bridge is only about 5mm wide so making the gasket 10mm wide into the inlet chamber makes it stronger less likely to distort and blow out, because it is physically larger , also is in the cooler inlet air which due to conduction has to make that section cooler.
All I can comment on is the fact it went though 4 pumps in short order, and now has ran for 18 mths and is pumping for most of the day and has not given one problem I did actually suggest an extra fan but I bought a big broom wade pump to replace it, he said oh just let it run for now and it hasnt stopped since
I agree the gasket will be stronger.
You can't destroy heat, you can only shuffle it from one place to another, so if the gasket is passing heat from the block to the inlet stream it's heating up the inlet stream.
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