You could lift the roof with counterbattens and fit a membrane, could probably be done for £100 in timber and about £50 for a roll of membrane.
- Thread starter JOEPRO
- Start date
Farside
Badly Welded Man
- Messages
- 6,142
- Location
- Ireland
GT85 is better than WD40 imo, but for condensation protection I'd use ACF50 - and it's quite cheap by the 5L, not the aerosol version.
Hi knight thanks for reply .So as a newbie just bear with me : the reason of condensation is warm air rises and has to have a exit . As Tigdlo replied I would have to put counter battens on top of the joist then put a membrane down then put the roof back down is that correct.but how would that stop the condensation within the garage?.we do have a problem with the floor it leaks every time it rains there's always puddles inside .I'll fix that in the summer hopefully .I turned the electricity off because water was going into the lights as you can see in pictures I can just put them on top of the slabs instead Any other ways of insulating or stopping condensation
Cheers newbie question were would you put the roofing sheet,like would I have to take roof off and lay it or within the garage
500e
Always buy fire insurance a flood is a hard start
- Messages
- 9,192
- Location
- South West
I think he is suggesting a new roof with insulation attached the do it in different insulation thicknesses, surprised you only have drips not rain with just the sheet, on our oldest WS we had single skin you needed a mack.
Fitted 80mm Kingspan insulated roof on top, stops the drips but the sides and doors need attention humidity is a nightmare
Fitted 80mm Kingspan insulated roof on top, stops the drips but the sides and doors need attention humidity is a nightmare
Erie Fred
Member
- Messages
- 5,848
- Location
- Erie, Pa USofA
I built my first shop that way, thought I would just use it for vehicle storage....Until the layoffs came, and then I converted it
to shop area.
Condensation was always a problem.
I have seen bubble wrap, house wrap, draped fiberglass (with poly covering) and none seem to last.
So I stripped off the old roof, and put down 1/2" 4 ply exterior grade plywood, and then the required house wrap (called sharkskin)
over that, new tin screwed down.
No problems.
warm air rises, hits the cold metal roof and the moisture in the air condenses out of it onto the metal
there's not much you can do without taking the roof off tbh (that I can think of anyway)
JOEPRO
Member
- Messages
- 4,600
- Location
- UK
The reason why a insulation below the metal deck would help matters is because the surface is then warmer and less dew will form on it and subsequently drip back off causing the issues.
But a vapour barrier is critical there as that is what stops the humid air from reaching the cold tin and sweating the whole thing.
I think some PIR foil back insulation glued and foamed / taped at the edges will form a vapour barrier etc all in one as long as the foil is in good condition / totally undamged and correct foil tapes are used to fully seal all joints.
But a vapour barrier is critical there as that is what stops the humid air from reaching the cold tin and sweating the whole thing.
I think some PIR foil back insulation glued and foamed / taped at the edges will form a vapour barrier etc all in one as long as the foil is in good condition / totally undamged and correct foil tapes are used to fully seal all joints.
The membrane becomes the barrier between inside and outside the shed, the roof sheets are now completely outside with air flow under them so any condensation will dry on the outside of the shed not the inside. The membrane will be less likely to form condensation and breath enough to allow the shed to dry under normal conditions. My shed roof is steel and has the membrane hanging loosly like the felt on most houses in the UK.
Preventing water ingress will always be where you will see the most improvement, fix leaks, fit guttering, overhang the roof to prevent wet walls, french drain to prevent surface water reaching the walls, surface water drainage away from the shed if you have a drive or similar sloping towards the shed, there is probably more that can be done but that is where I would start if I needed to make an existing shed like yours as dry as possible.
JOEPRO
Member
- Messages
- 4,600
- Location
- UK
I think it was @Turbo who mentioned this stuff and I tried it out
It's a runny wax and easy to apply. I shake a blob out onto a clean paper towel and use that to coat bare metal. It dries off itself after an hour or two and leaves no visible waxy finish.
I've noticed that items I have treated with this remain rust free where other untreated bare metal items next to those have flash rust so it does work. It's very easy to apply and cheap compared to the small tins of hard tool wax which also does work well but I'm liking this lubricating wax.
It's a runny wax and easy to apply. I shake a blob out onto a clean paper towel and use that to coat bare metal. It dries off itself after an hour or two and leaves no visible waxy finish.
I've noticed that items I have treated with this remain rust free where other untreated bare metal items next to those have flash rust so it does work. It's very easy to apply and cheap compared to the small tins of hard tool wax which also does work well but I'm liking this lubricating wax.
It's time to put a bit of heat into the workshop. It's forecast to warm up tomorrow, over much of the UK. Any air that gets in will be humid, and form condensation over all the cold bits of metal it comes into contact with. Warming them up a bit normally helps.
Gragson
Member
- Messages
- 2,566
- Location
- Bucks
The Golom aka @MattF posted this recipe a while back.
Ingredients are cheap and can make loads, can also make it thicker/thinner depending on application required.
Hat not required, been hissing down here, its all I wear in the shed, sorry for the nightmares to any I've met
zx9
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 5,197
- Location
- South East London
Many moons ago Matt very kindly sent me a couple of Drummond change wheels which were coated in a similar concoction, it does leave an impressive finish putting to shame my splash a bit of oil on it and wipe it with an old rag approach.The Golom aka @MattF posted this recipe a while back.
Ingredients are cheap and can make loads, can also make it thicker/thinner depending on application required.
Hat not required, been hissing down here, its all I wear in the shed, sorry for the nightmares to any I've met
View attachment 427705
MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 17,553
- Location
- South Yorkshire
zx9
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 5,197
- Location
- South East London
I have not noticed them not to be, that said my garage is not too bad for condensation and I do like to keep everything on the Drummond well lubricated so perhaps not the best test.
brewdexta
The biggest tool in the box
- Messages
- 5,732
- Location
- UK
I used to get flash rusting in the workshop. I tried dehumidifiers but bought the wrong kind, should have bought dessicated type as its cold. Also, at the time there was too much uncontrolled ventilation so I wouls have been dehumidifying Yorkshire.
Now I have it largely under control by heating the workshop, I found 7c to be the optimal for my location and conditions. I have a second hand pellet boiler and fan coil units. Here's the temp tonight, you can see the heating kicking in.
I also use various unctions, Liberon wax on woodworking machines and various oils on metalwork machines but don't need to go to heavy slideway oils now I heat it.
The workshop is clad in 60mm kingspan metalclad panels, but I found a slight gap between eves and roof in some places, hard to see as its hidden behind one of the beams on the inside and box gutters on the outside. I've been painting the beams then sealing this up, should have been done by now but I'm lagging behind a bit.
The plan is to reuse the old heat recovery ventilation unit from the house to provide controlled ventilation then I can use a dehumidifier so I can lower the temp down a few degrees. The HRV also does some moisture removal so will see what the relative humidity is when fitted.
Now I have it largely under control by heating the workshop, I found 7c to be the optimal for my location and conditions. I have a second hand pellet boiler and fan coil units. Here's the temp tonight, you can see the heating kicking in.
I also use various unctions, Liberon wax on woodworking machines and various oils on metalwork machines but don't need to go to heavy slideway oils now I heat it.
The workshop is clad in 60mm kingspan metalclad panels, but I found a slight gap between eves and roof in some places, hard to see as its hidden behind one of the beams on the inside and box gutters on the outside. I've been painting the beams then sealing this up, should have been done by now but I'm lagging behind a bit.
The plan is to reuse the old heat recovery ventilation unit from the house to provide controlled ventilation then I can use a dehumidifier so I can lower the temp down a few degrees. The HRV also does some moisture removal so will see what the relative humidity is when fitted.
Best stuff I ever used was some sort of aerosol wire rope lube. Possibly Rocol. Thick black stuff. Elliott Sturdimill and may Colchester Triumph were good for 20 yerars. Wipes off easily with wd40 and a cloth. I used it so long ago I can't remember the right one though
My warehouse is a nightmare - usually about 85 to 95% humidity. Being close to the sea doesn't help. My old place was about 5 miles inland. Still cold and unheated but no rust or very little.
I have to constantly bury my stuff in oil.
This strategy has worked well for me too for a 9'x12' insulated shed. I used to blast a 2kw fan heater when I was in there and turn it off when I left, now I have a 700w oil filled radiator and accept a low average temperature, sits at about 8-10 degreesC, flash rusting on lathe chucks was the biggest issue, this has now stopped. I'm sure a higher temperature wouldn't cause any issues in my shed but the cost of heating just isn't worth it.
What do you use for logging your temperature?
