I have packets of those cheap disposable dehumidifier things you get in bargain shops. I usually place a couple of them inside my classic cars that have to live outside during winter. They do fill up over a winter.
I may place some around my garages and see if they pick up much.
Anywhere there's a washing machine will have a higher degree of humidity.
Starting last year I keep a large dehumidifier on all winter & I was getting around 2.5l daily from it!
As for stopping rust forming on machined surfaces, wax is good, this one is easy to put on.
Personally I use gear oil, brush it on, leave for 30mins then wipe off the excess.
Yep, if the wind can get in the moisture will follow it. And then the poor dehumidifier is just running to catch up.You'll need to sort out leaks before worrying about running a dehumidifier for any sustained period. If humid air can be pulled in from outside easily then you're in a lose lose situation.
My workshop was like that until we finished off the office upstairs. Roof is all insulated and any gaps filled, windows in and sealed. The old air vents from the stable era cut circles of cellotex to plug. There's still a small gap above the roller shutter but it's blocked by the brick arch so wind can't blow directly in.
The difference in the humidity inside has been astonishing despite living in South West Wales where our next neighbours to the South West are the Falklands.
I use WD40 and hydraulic oil 50:50What oil do you spray on? My stuff is all small tools really but some metal on the pillar drill and bandsaw tables could do with longer term treatment.
Tool wax seems to work well. I used a squirty can of engine oil to rub on the vices this evening in addition to the wax. (May add strips of wax paper on top of the oil if I get around to restoring a few more vices)
But does it work ?
Swings in temperature is a big cause of condensation, machinery takes time to warm up so as the temperature increases it ends up like a cold drinks glass in a warm room.