Comments and suggestions welcome!

  1. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Thanks @Popcorn! Gotta love project binky.

    I've done a bit of CAD already to make a new jacking point and inner sill from sheet which I'm rather pleased with :)
    I'll add scuttle closing panels to the list .
     
  2. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,733
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    Wow ,Wow slow down. Until you know the real extent of the damage to the shell you are wasting time and money unless you want to use this shell as a practice dolly. Not a bad idea if you think about it. The body damage sounds to be the clincher because you are caught with either straightening as is with the rot in or after with new steel welded in. in the first scenario you might do more damage to the shell than fix and in the second find the new steel you welded in gets twisted and again get more damage! Just thoughts that is all.
     
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  3. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Thanks for the words of caution :)

    Just to clarify - I made the sill and jacking point repair parts back when the plan was to simply patch the car up without going too mad and carry on living with it as is. That was meant to be the plan before this thread!

    The plan now is to do lots of measuring, costing up and thinking before doing any more practical work as per the plan in my post this afternoon.
     
  4. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,733
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    OK The floor assembly and roof are obviously the two main structural pieces to the jigsaw of strength in the car and the floor is known to rust almost everywhere. On my shell it has already been badly patched in the footwells and the inner rear panel onto which the rear subframe mounts needs replacing as an example of the rot.
     
  5. KemppiFrog Member

    Messages:
    3,210
    Location:
    Aquitaine
    Interesting... I did two shell up rebuilds in the 60s. One for my brother after he hit a curb with the sump avoiding someone. A new shell cost a bit over £100 then..The car looked not bad, except the wings drooped a bit. The floor was well up in the cabin. The other was for me and I bought an early lightweight shell from a scrappy in Cheshunt with a bit of nearside damage. (The early shells were about 40lbs lighter) I was thinking of going Mini 7 racing back then, but reality made it my daily drive. About 80hp from a 1000Ccc unit, much fun!
    Looking at what you have really would make me think. I did a few other rust repairs, but yours is getting to be beyond repair, more a new build.
     
  6. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Thanks Kemppi - I'm also looking at second hand minis & unfinished projects to weigh up the cost. A new shell these days costs £8.5k unpainted!

    In my opinion, the problem with second hand is that I'll just be buying a car with more unknown problems - although likely less drastic than mine!
     
  7. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    I measured the door opening horizontally and diagonally on both sides with the following results...

    Offside
    Horizontal Middle = 872mm
    Horizontal Bottom = 876mm
    Diagonal 1 = 1171mm
    Diagonal 2 = 1047mm

    Nearside
    Horizontal Middle = 872mm
    Horizontal Bottom = 872mm
    Diagonal 1 = 1174mm
    Diagonal 2 =1044mm

    Obviously the differences here are quite small.

    I then looked again at the door fitment and realised that the door leans inwards at the top edge so that the top of the window frame is about 15mm inboard of the door opening when the bottom of the door is flush to the door opening.

    I therefore figured that the door hinge panel must have been pushed inwards (towards car centreline) at the top of the A Panel.

    With this in mind, I measured the distance across the top dash rail (just under the rail from side to side) and took the same measurement between the bottom of the two door pillars.
    Results as follows:
    OS A Pillar to NS A Pillar, under top dash rail = 1148mm
    OS A Pillar to NS A Pillar, bottom = 1263mm

    The measurements were taken between the inner edges of the spot weld flanges which the door seal mounts on to. The door seals were removed.

    I'd really appreciate if another mini owner could take the same measurements for comparison - particularly the distance between the A Pillars across the bottom of the top dash rail.
     
  8. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Also please can you guys give me a cost guesstimate for getting a Mini shell sandblasted? I just realised this is another item to factor into my costs.

    Thanks :)
     
  9. KemppiFrog Member

    Messages:
    3,210
    Location:
    Aquitaine
    8.5K? Sheesh.But it is all relative to the price of bread at any given time.. Not so much back then..When I transfered all the running gear from my MiniVan to the 'new' shell, I sold the van shell to a bloke that came off a hump back bridge a bit quick and bent his van in the middle. Cors, if I had stashed it in the barn for X years, I would be in clover..
     
  10. KemppiFrog Member

    Messages:
    3,210
    Location:
    Aquitaine
    Oh. You need to remember that they used big levers to tweek the door frames, so the doors would fit, right up to the end of production.
     
  11. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,733
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    If it is not raining tomorrow I will try and measure mine for you. I have to take its sheet covering off and don't want it to get soaked.
     
  12. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    'ull
    Did have 'em written down somewhere, just can't find 'em. So if no one else gets 'em beforehand, ill measure it all up again tomorrow.
     
  13. keithski122 Member

    Messages:
    1,018
    uk
    I'd be careful about getting a shell blasted.I had two doors, a bonnet and an engine lid for a karmann ghia wrecked by a blaster who didn't know what they were doing.

    I had the problem in the 90's of getting rid of two mini pick ups, had trouble getting £300 each for them.............!
     
  14. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    'ull
    Bit of 4x3 as can be seen on one of the early assembly line video's :clapping:
     
  15. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    'ull
    That would be the early nineties.
     
  16. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,733
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    I made a couple of measurements of mine but unfortunately I have took or recorded different ones to you. I first starting measuring the A pillar from the base where it meets the floor but the measurements seemed a lot wider than yours. Then I remembered that you mentioned the dash rail so I measured the top of the dash rail and got 1196mm and the top of the windscreen rail and got 1151.5mm. I measured the door apertures right in the middle of the frame and got LH 900mm and RH 901mm. I also took some photos of the roll over supports and door aperture supports. Hope these help. If you want anymore dimensions let me know. By the way, when you measure the A pillar do you take it from the outside to outside and at what level of the post. i.e middle, bottom. top?
     
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  17. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    379
    Location:
    'ull
    One consideration about above style of mounting the spit, if the wheel arches are rotten/need replacing. You'd maybe better of drilling the rear bulkhead, best pic i've found of the rear mount.
    Spit-Rear-Bulkhead-Mount.jpg
     
  18. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,733
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    My turrets are sound and that panel isn't that sturdy. I cut a hole in it and the parcel shelf has been hacked to take two massive speakers so that has lost a lot of strength but I take your point.
     
  19. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Thanks for taking those measurements :)

    My "dash rail" measurement was actually under the windscreen rail and is only 3mm different from yours at 1148mm (mine) vs 1151mm (yours).

    I wonder what could be causing the lean on my door then? Perhaps the door or hinges are the problem. I somehow doubt that the bottom of the A pillar would have moved outwards!

    I could put some threaded bar through the top & bottom hinge mounting holes and use a plumb line to check the angle on both sides. I could then check the door shut in the same way.

    This should tell me whether the problem is with the door or the shell.
     
  20. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,733
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    Measure the door against the drivers door as they should be mirror images.
     
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