Comments and suggestions welcome!

  1. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    @henry Kadzielski - Haha agreed Mr Bright Side!:clapping:

    @stalwart_hmlc - good point. I'll add the expected panel costs up and have a think. It's the unexpected ones which will be problematic I suppose! :laughing:

    @Popcorn - Thanks I've made some big repair panels for the inner sill and jacking point so will continue with those first as you suggested.

    I was also planning to repair the door step but will now investigate replacing along with the door pillar.
     
  2. addjunkie

    addjunkie Member

    Messages:
    5,466
    Location:
    Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
    Those pictures brought back nightmare memories of my youth.....from your pictures I think you are well past the quick fix.

    .or another shell, well yours if fixable, but time is free, unless the time your using to fix the car is time you should be earning!
     
    Shedendman likes this.
  3. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,701
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    I have a 1990 mini with a few areas of rot but nothing like that. I have totally stripped the car of everything and have rigged up a rotisserie which allows me to rotate the car to allow the repairs to be carried out in reasonable comfort. I managed to bolt the door struts in place rather than weld and it rotates using a scaffold pole through the front windscreen and back mounted on two large axle stands. These are modified from the Midget rotator I have. From the state of yours I would do the same as honestly it looks terminal and needs to be properly assessed on the grounds of safety. Once you start cutting out to good metal you will realise the extent of the problem better.
     
  4. Welds appear to be quite good, although I`d echo what was said about the welds on your second picture on first post on the box section about turning down the wire speed a tad.

    "I think either I went too mad with the flap disc and ended up with thin metal surrounding the patch or I just didn't cut enough out. Probably a combination of both actually."

    From the look of your last picture on your first post where you have let the patch in, I don`t think it`s the case with the above sentence you wrote. To the right hand side and lower down you can see it`s a case of the metal has rusted away too thin in that area & not the result of getting over eager with the grinder. For your own sake and peace of mind, take the advice of others & cut it out to good strong clean steel. Trust me I`m sure the others who are giving you sound advice have all been in the same position & also learnt through experience that the correct way of dealing with it, is to do it right and do it once :thumbup: You have a good project there & I know you will be eager to get it over & done with, but you`ll only be doing it again the next year if you don`t do it properly now. Oh and keep us updated with piccies as those are the rulez :rules:
     
  5. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    @p0689109 - How complex is your rotisserie? Do you have any pictures on here?

    As far as planning goes I guess I should estimate which panels need replacing, add up the costs and see what it looks like.

    I can be a little challenging to figure out the layers of panels without cutting the top ones away - are there any good resources I can look at to help me understand the panel layup without getting out the grinder?
    I'm using the minispares catalogues at the moment but they leave a lot to be desired.
     
  6. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    @defender dan - Thanks for the encouragement :)
    I think a planning session is in order now before using any more tools and certainly before buying any panels :(
     
  7. gaz_moose Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    tamworth staffordshire
    Haynes mini restoration manual. think I have one and all the other mini associated books somewhere.

    TBH it looks like you are into full restoration territory and not just a couple of patches.

    I would strip the car down and label everything. then see about attacking the shell properly.

    would be worth costing up the usual panels. front panel/wings/A panels/inner wings/sills/heel boards/rear valance/rear subframe/. then look what the rest is like, around front windscreen, rear arches, if you can get lower rear quarter repair panels etc..

    then you wont want to bolt your old trim back onto a mint shell so you end up replacing everything...
     
  8. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,701
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    It is basically a scaffold pole and two large axle stands. The tubes of my axle stands are 4x2 with holes drilled for height adjustment and a bar welded in each of the top holes into which the scaffold pole fits. The pole mounts on the top of the front bulkhead and rear shelf with stiffeners. At the moment the car is on a dolly as welding on the car is on hold. Just another project waiting to continue!! I can dig out the stands for a photo if you want.
     
  9. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    279
    Location:
    'ull
    My Spit
    RoleOverSpit.jpg
     
  10. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Thanks for the spit descriptions / pictures!

    One question - @Popcorn I can see that the scaffold tube goes through the bulkhead & rear seat back holes but how is it fixed to the car? Guessing you don't have the car just rattling around a scaffold tube in those massive holes...

    @p0689109 - Your mounting method also sounds interesting. Did you weld the shell onto the tube?

    @gaz_moose - I have the restoration manual and Haynes. The restoration manual is great but it's far from comprehensive. Doesn't cover inner wing replacement for example.

    I think you're right about stripping the shell and assessing the damage.
     
  11. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Question for everyone - how possible / practical is it to fix bodged crash repairs whilst replacing panels?

    Two specific examples:
    1. I know the front end on my car is skewed because the bonnet doesn't line up with the scuttle if it is properly aligned to the wings.

    2. I know the passenger door frame is bent because the passenger door has never closed properly despite all of my alignment efforts and the door pillar is visibly misshapen when compared to the drivers side.

    Will I be able to rectify these issues whilst replacing panels? I'm concerned that the surrounding panels will be bent which could make judging correct fit very difficult. Does anyone have experience with this type of work?

    To be honest if it wasn't for the crash damage I'd probably have put more thought to attempting a full resto in the first place.
     
  12. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    279
    Location:
    'ull
    Theres a oval plate attached to the scaff pole where it goes through the rear bulkhead, this is bolted to the mounting holes/slots for the cover.
    You see the rusty bit of angle iron, this is bolted to the master cylinder studs at the drivers side and with nuts and bolts at the heater plate (thats the cover where the master cylinders would be on a left hand drive mini).
     
  13. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    279
    Location:
    'ull
    Measure the door gap (across, vertically and diagonally), measure the distance between the crossmember the seats are on and where the toe board starts. Then compare it to the other side, thats if the other side looks ok.
    If you suspect the other side has moved as well post up your measurements and me or one of the other mini owners can verify.

    It's perfectly possible to fix this sort of minor (if it turns out to be minor) damage by replacing the panels your gonna replace anyway.
     
  14. p0689109 Member

    Messages:
    1,701
    Location:
    stoke on trent,england
    You can buy Body repair Kits from places like Machine Mart. Basically pumps with dollys and tubes. 4 tonne to 10 tonne capacity.
     
  15. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Thanks all - I guess the plan is as follows:
    1. Add up panel costs based on expectations and take crash damage measurements. Ask @Popcorn if shell is knackered based on measurements.
    2. Plan rollover jig - make vs buy decision. Add cost to project cost
    3. Consider storage for parts
    4. Consider paint & consumables cost - add to project cost
    5. Compare cost to new shell and secondhand shell
    6. If cost is favourable, fit inner sill patch to regain some strength - patch already made and sill already cut :(
    7. Strip car to rolling shell and store as per step 3
    8. Re-assess panel requirements based on improved access and add to project cost
    9. Compare cost to new shell and secondhand shell (again)
    10. If cost is favourable, make or buy rollover jig
    11. Completely strip car and fit to rollover jig. Store parts as per step 3
    12. Re-re-assess panel requirements based on improved access and add to project cost
    13. Compare cost to new shell and secondhand shell (again, again)
    14. If cost is favourable, plan order of panel replacement and start cutting/welding!
    Seem reasonable?

    For initial pricing I'm thinking the following panels based on what I've seen so far:
    • Outer Sills (already got)
    • Inner sills (make)
    • Jacking points (make)
    • Door steps
    • A pillars
    • Inner wings
    • Wings
    • Scuttle / windscreen surround
    • A panels
    • Front panel (already got)
    • Quarter panels (got repair sections already)
    • OS front floorpan repair
    • Heelboard
    • Boot floor
    • Rear wheel arches
    • Rear valance (already got)
    • Rear valance closing panels (make)
    • Rear panel
    What do you experienced folk think of the plan & panel list?

    Thanks for your help so far :)
     
  16. Popcorn

    Popcorn Member

    Messages:
    279
    Location:
    'ull
    Sounds about right, you'll also want the scuttle closing panels though these are easy enough to make.
    Just make a CAD (cardboard aided design) template before you remove the scuttle.
     
  17. addjunkie

    addjunkie Member

    Messages:
    5,466
    Location:
    Northumberland. Reet oot in the sticks
    How much is a new shell, are they available......
     
  18. slim_boy_fat

    slim_boy_fat Forum Supporter

    addjunkie likes this.
  19. gaz_moose Member

    Messages:
    955
    Location:
    tamworth staffordshire
    don't forget to factor if you are competent at actually performing the work.
    ive seen far too many unfinished projects that have stalled when the guy realises he is in over his head/abilities..

    what are you going to do for paint?

    dont forget door / window seals etc.. consumables
     
  20. cornflakeMini

    cornflakeMini Member

    Messages:
    29
    Location:
    Bedfordshire, UK
    Thanks everyone :)

    @gaz_moose - Regarding competency:
    Mechanically I would say highly competent. I've done two engine changes, major overhaul of front & rear suspension & brakes, subframe mounts, timing belts (obvs not on the mini), megajolt setup on the mini and much more on the mini and a variety of other cars.

    However, bodywork wise I have done much less. My experience with bodywork is as follows:
    • Replaced wings & scuttle corner on brothers mini
    • Repainted some areas of my car and guided my brother through his prep & paint process. He's better with a spray gun than I am!
    • Welding - I would say competent but inexperienced. I'm quite pleased with most of the work I've done on clean sheet like the examples in my first post.
    • A few small body patches for MOT work
    If I do this I'll be looking at it as a learning experience. I'd like to get some welding practice on the car and I want to make a good job of it rather than rushing because the car is the daily drive (it isn't any more).

    That said, there is also a cost aspect and if a new shell is similar cost to restoring (I'd be surprised at £8.5k unpainted) then I'll probably save up and wait.

    One of my concerns is space. I only have a single garage which is not on a private driveway. I'm hoping that a rollover jig will be my savior here but I would also appreciate feedback.
     
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