Capacitors for HIGGS motor.

[HSGB]

Hello,

I have this HIGGS, 240v motor:

This is the motor plate:

It has two of these capacitors inside the two metal cans:

I have never seen a 350v capacitor before, not that that means much but, I take it a 130uf - 250v is not going to do, even though the motor is 240v?

Do I need a 350v, or higher capacitor, so as to not burn it out? These have two fly-leads on them as well. Anyway, I cannot find one that fits that criteria. Does anyone know where they are available?

Cheers.

 

[6ply]

Look at the data plate. The motor is dual voltage. If you are running at 240V then a 240V RMS rated capacitor should be just fine.

 

[carbon]

Get a 450v rated capacitor. Peak voltage for 240v is approx 340v

 

[HSGB]

They seem quite hard to find. Does it matter if the microfarad rating is slightly higher?

 

[Martin-Sy]

Not too critical. They will have a wide manufacturing tolerance anyway.
Try these folks:

Brocott UK

Brocott UK, suppliers of enamelled copper magnet wire, split charge voltage sensing relays

brocott.co.uk

If it will fit mechanically always go for a higher voltage rating. It will last longer.

 

[6ply]

Get a 450v rated capacitor. Peak voltage for 240v is approx 340v

That's why I said 240V RMS.

 

[HSGB]

This is the thing, Looking here, he mentions an oversized condensor will cause the windings to burn out:

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/clarke-compressor-start-capacitor.127428/

I can only find Chinese ones, of 150uf/ 450v.

 

[6ply]

Search 130uf start capacitor

 

[HSGB]

What site is that, 6ply?

See this motor? the bearing is pretty rough so I made a puller up with the 1/4" Whitworth studs and tried to pull the rear end cap off, it wouldn't budge! I never forced it but, I thought it would only be held on by the bearing friction on the shaft. I thought it would just be like seperating a crankcase. Does anyone, who is more familiar with electric motors than I, know if this should just pull off or is there something else going on?

Cheers.

 

[6ply]

What site is that, 6ply?

See this motor? the bearing is pretty rough so I made a puller up with the 1/4" Whitworth studs and tried to pull the rear end cap off, it wouldn't budge! I never forced it but, I thought it would only be held on by the bearing friction on the shaft. I thought it would just be like seperating a crankcase. Does anyone, who is more familiar with electric motors than I, know if this should just pull off or is there something else going on?

Cheers.View attachment 493967

AliExpress

Remove the screws and tap the bell ends off. I've done dozens of motors that way.

 

[Brad93]

Hello,

I have this HIGGS, 240v motor:View attachment 492820

This is the motor plate:

View attachment 492821

It has two of these capacitors inside the two metal cans:

View attachment 492822

I have never seen a 350v capacitor before, not that that means much but, I take it a 130uf - 250v is not going to do, even though the motor is 240v?

Do I need a 350v, or higher capacitor, so as to not burn it out? These have two fly-leads on them as well. Anyway, I cannot find one that fits that criteria. Does anyone know where they are available?

Cheers.

One of the capacitors should be lower rated than that one.
The start capacitor is normally a higher value.

 

[Brad93]

Also capacitors have a tolerance of usually 5% or so.
So a 120uf or 125uf cap will probably suit as a replacement for that older capacitor (which no doubt has a wider range due to the age/technology).

No need to find a higher voltage capacitor.
You'll be running this on 230v single phase supply I take it.

 

[HSGB]

Remove the screws and tap the bell ends off. I've done dozens of motors that way.

There is nothing to hit, to drive it off the shaft, unless I deliver sideways blows, which I did a little bit with a rubber mallett, hoping to break the seal, but stopped because I don't want to crack the cast iron. Are there locating dowels on these as they can deform with hammer blows as well?

One of the capacitors should be lower rated than that one.
The start capacitor is normally a higher value.

Well, mine were both the same and the motor was running alright, with plenty of oomph. They connected like this, the blue wires at the top:

No need to find a higher voltage capacitor.
You'll be running this on 230v single phase supply I take it.

Yes, it runs on single phase.

 

[6ply]

Typically there are 4 long screws that pass the full length of the motor and hold both ends together. I normally start by adding a couple of witness marks with a center punch to the body of the motor and the bell ends, maybe not necessary but it ensures that I reassemble in exactly the same position. I then lightly tap an end with a copper mallet I don't think rubber mallet exerts sufficient shock. Sometimes I use a small punch or even a centre punch slightly at an angle to break the bond. It normally doesn't take much to get a motor apart and as I have mentioned before I have done lots of these in this fashion.

Good luck!

 

[6ply]

There is a small ridge running around the circumference of the end. You can use that to remove the end by lightly tapping it with a hammer and punch. It won't take much to get it moving so long as you have removed the screws first.

 

[Turbo]

Take out the bolts for the fan end cap. Tap the pulley end of the motor shaft and the end cap will be driven off by the shaft.

If it doesn't move easly it means the bearing is clamped in place to the end cap.

 

[Brad93]

There is nothing to hit, to drive it off the shaft, unless I deliver sideways blows, which I did a little bit with a rubber mallett, hoping to break the seal, but stopped because I don't want to crack the cast iron. Are there locating dowels on these as they can deform with hammer blows as well?

Well, mine were both the same and the motor was running alright, with plenty of oomph. They connected like this, the blue wires at the top:

View attachment 493987



Yes, it runs on single phase.

Hang about have they got them parallel or in series?!

 

[Brad93]

I don't mean to teach you so suck eggs but i do know a thing or two about electric motors. And a start cap/run cap motor should have two different value capacitors.

This is how it should be wired.

So the caps are parallel, but the centrifugal switch is in series with the start capacitor.

 

[HSGB]

There is a small ridge running around the circumference of the end.

No, there isn't, it is a really smooth mating and there is nothing to tap. I have one, very small piece of casting overlap on one of the bolt holes, it's about 1/8 of an inch, but that's it.

Typically there are 4 long screws that pass the full length of the motor and hold both ends together. I normally start by adding a couple of witness marks with a center punch to the body of the motor and the bell ends, maybe not necessary but it ensures that I reassemble in exactly the same position. I then lightly tap an end with a copper mallet I don't think rubber mallet exerts sufficient shock. Sometimes I use a small punch or even a centre punch slightly at an angle to break the bond. It normally doesn't take much to get a motor apart and as I have mentioned before I have done lots of these in this fashion.

Mine has three long screws at each end, they have obviously all been removed, but the end caps still won't budge. As it is cast I am a bit touchy about cracking it with a copper mallett.

Take out the bolts for the fan end cap. Tap the pulley end of the motor shaft and the end cap will be driven off by the shaft.

If it doesn't move easly it means the bearing is clamped in place to the end cap.

I did that to remove the actual pulley from the shaft, had to beat the pulley further onto the shaft to release the tapered key. The three bolts at each end were removed at the time and I thought it would loosed the end caps, but it never did. When I tried the puller it never pulled the end cap off, if just pushed the rotor shaft back through, hard up to the bearing at the other end.

Hang about have they got them parallel or in series?!

I would say parallel, the same wire, from each condensor, goes to the same terminal.

So the caps are parallel, but the centrifugal switch is in series with the start capacitor.

I don't know. I never even knew it had a switch inside. All I know is it's been running fine the thirty years I've had it.

 

[Guineafowl]

I would take that puller off and use the edge of a lump of ally or brass as a drift, (sort of) as shown below.

Go round all three, and if no go, try the other side.

Failing that, thread the bolts back in partially and give them a tap.