Richard.
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Unreal. That's mad. The tips must be quite special to cope with that.Yep, on the Computurn, it is a beast![]()
Unreal. That's mad. The tips must be quite special to cope with that.Yep, on the Computurn, it is a beast![]()
Unreal. That's mad. The tips must be quite special to cope with that.
Ha ha that would eat mine and for breakfast and still be hungry.To give you an idea of the bulk of the Computurn here is a pic of the original front 4 way toolpost with a 32mm Dia boring bar in it and the 4 way toolpost from a Colchester Triumph sitting on top.
View attachment 119207
Ha ha that would eat mine and for breakfast and still be hungry.
Bet that's got a nasty bite if things go wrong.
I would not expect to be greasing the oilite bushes do they require lubrication at all?If you want to make these for long-term reliability, you need to consider lubrication.
The originals have nylon bushes with grooves in them and a grease nipple on the casting.
The replacement has some kind of bronze bush, also with grooves in it. This would also seem to be expecting grease.
There is talk of oilite bushes. These do not require grease grooves and should not be lubricated with grease.
The clue is in the name: OIL-ite. Pushing grease into these will block the pores and stop them functioning as designed.
Lubricating them correctly with oil via the nipple may require a different kind of seal to stop the oil dripping out on the floor (unless you want to turn your Japanese truck into a British motorbike).
You need to replenish the oil every so often. Don't recall the frequency but the info should be on their site. Probably though in the application you are talking about it will wear out before that is required.I would not expect to be greasing the oilite bushes do they require lubrication at all?
Safer to have a softer material that will bend rather than something too strong that will fracture. Be very careful.
The problem is as I understand it the item is now not working "within its specification" due to other modifications to the vehicle. This part looks to be the weakest link in the chain at the moment, if uprated the odds are something else will then become the weakest link.Bit of a miss-conception if you have a steel which is tougher and tends not to bend and is working within it's specification it will never fail. Steel is not like aluminium and doesn't suffer from creep. The thing is with steel alloying you can impart a lot of characteristics - simply being harder doesn't necessarily mean it isn't as tough.
The problem is as I understand it the item is now not working "within its specification" due to other modifications to the vehicle. This part looks to be the weakest link in the chain at the moment, if uprated the odds are something else will then become the weakest link.
Are we confusing hardness, toughness and strength here. They are not the same thing. Something that is particularly hard isn't particularly tough. (Toughness been measured on impact properties) But something that is tough must be both strong and have an element of ductility to it. If it's too ductile it's not tough or strong. There is always a trade off to a degree. This part has failed due to bending but is that a catastrophic failure. No. Making it tougher or harder or stronger and decreasing the ductility might make it last longer but if it does fail will it be a catastrophic failure?? Brad makes a valid point. By "improving" one aspect of the design you could seriously be effecting another.
The problem is as I understand it the item is now not working "within its specification" due to other modifications to the vehicle. This part looks to be the weakest link in the chain at the moment, if uprated the odds are something else will then become the weakest link.
There is not always a total trade off due to the fact of alloying, heat treatment and the quality of the steel = impurities. We can talk about yield points, elongation, tensile strength, hardness etc.
But the point is
'Safer to have a softer material that will bend rather than something too strong that will fracture. Be very careful.'
Is a loose term, just because a steel bends easy it doesn't mean it won't finish in catastrophic failure.
There is always a trade off when you make changes to a metal property. Usually strength or ductility you cannot increase one without decreasing the other.There is not always a total trade off due to the fact of alloying, heat treatment and the quality of the steel = impurities. We can talk about yield points, elongation, tensile strength, hardness etc.
But the point is
'Safer to have a softer material that will bend rather than something too strong that will fracture. Be very careful.'
Is a loose term, just because a steel bends easy it doesn't mean it won't finish in catastrophic failure.
I don't honestly know but Malleable metals are generally quite soft and easy to deform from all manner of inflicted forces on them I'm not sure that would be a useful property on something that's likely to take a clobber. At a guess I'd say that part is possibly case hardened. This gives you the wear resistance required from the rotational side of things. It moves inside that housing and i would say a hard crust around that pin would offer protection especially if you forget to grease it.Malleability might also be a consideration along with ductility.
Malleable metals can be easily deformed from impact or compression. Squashing them, hammering them, flattening, rolling them etc.IIRC from my resistant materials stuff from college (taught by a trained metallurgist of all things....)
Ductility is the ability to stretch something
Malleability is the bendability / flattenabliity